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System is up and running. Funcitonal, EXCEPT... it seems like the DC to DC output isn't high enough to trigger the ACR to combine the batteries for parallel charging from the DC to DC. There are some DIP switches that can boost the DC to DC charging voltage a bit, I'll try that. Otherwise I'm going to go to a primary/reserve setup, where the 1st lead-acid battery that's connected directly to the DC to DC will be the primary, with the 2nd lead acid as backup only, to start the motor if the LION and the 1st lead acid battery are both discharged. Not exactly what I was hoping for but still much better than the original.

I just finished the install of the Suzuki SMG4 multifunction gauge and harness. Oh, man, I hope I didn't mess anything up, there were a LOT of wires from the tach and trim and troll mode switches to disconnect. The gauge fit in the tach hole (which was badly placed by the original owner), and switching the motor to DDC output was relatively easy. The gauge was easy to initialize, with the single complication that the default communication protocol was wrong (has to be Kline not Can2). Now, engine data shows up on my SeaTalkNG network, so I have things like trim, oil temp, RPM and fuel consumption available on the plotter and on my phone. The gauge has inputs for two fuel senders: I'd love to connect those but I am not sure how to make holes in my tanks without dropping plastic shavings in the fuel. Does one just take the tanks out, drain them, flip them over and drill upwards from below with a vacuum running?

Pics of the ACR and all of its connections would help.

Generically, the ACR will not combine the batteries until a set voltage for a set time has been seen. It will disconnect if the voltage drops below another set point.

Boy this all sounds a bit complicated for me to add Li batteries…

We’ve talked about this a couple times with regard to electrical (house) power for extended cruising.
After looking at several different configurations and options the one that made the most functional and versatility sense for us would be to just buy a pre-packaged type Li battery/inverter package. It comes with a case and handles for safely moving it around. They are also set up to take a 12 VDC input charging supply which it then converts via solid-state circuits and have solar electrical connections.
An up side is that the various systems are also reasonably convertible to Solar input.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

The 'existing system' in our 26X was a new Interstate lead-acid starter battery connected to the motor and it's gauges, while the lights/VHF were disconnected.

I've added a 100Ah LifePO4 house battery next to it, a 130W flexible solar panel on the hatch and a 30A DC to DC MPPT solar charge controller. So far they've existed as separate systems, the Nissan's 11A alternator charges the lead acid battery while it's running and the solar panel charges the house LifePO4 battery via the MPPT controller. It's been fine charging phones/iPad, powering a Starlink Mini and running lights throughout the evening.

The DC to DC converter has settings to manage a lead acid starter battery and a LifePO4 house battery using a solar array as well as a secondary input, such as a dedicated charging unit or discrete alternator out. The plan is to connect the lead acid battery as well so that both batteries can be charged via the converter, while their levels are monitored via the Bluetooth app.

This will let us recharge the house LifePO4 via the alternator on cloudy days while always prioritizing the starter battery stays at a sufficient charge level. That is if it all works as designed, this is the unit: https://hqsolarpower.com/12v-24v-30a-bu ... with-mppt/

tuxonpup,

If the 130W panel is able to keep your battery charged then the alternator will probably work pretty much the same once you get everything hooked up and working. Both the panel and the alternator are putting out about the same power. That's fine if you are already using the engine to move the boat but an outboard motor is a very expensive generator if all you are using it for is to charge the battery.

I don't know how long it takes to charge your battery with the solar panel but that's about the same amount of time you will need to run your outboard to charge on cloudy days.

Outboard manufacturers consider 100 hours to be an average year's run time. Just something to think about.