Buying a 1989 26D

[TrailerTrash]

I'm one step away from buying my second 1989 26D. I owned this model around 15 years ago and lost it in a storm after owning it for only a month. So I have some basic familiarity with the boat, but not much. The last time I owned a boat, my time was limited by kids, work, and life. I also was at a point in life, where I bought the 26D partially due to budget. At the time, if I had the money I would have purchased a keelboat.

My situation now is that I'm retiring next year and financially, I can afford to buy what I want. The surprising thing is that I want a MacGregor 26D.

The boat I'm a whisker away from purchasing is in reasonable shape for a 35-year-old boat. The original trailer is in pretty bad shape, which is no surprise. I would already have the Mac in my driveway if it wasn't for the trailer, that I was afraid to pull down the road. When I was younger, I would probably have hooked it up and pulled it home. Whether it is wisdom or excessive caution, depends upon where you stand.

I've read and searched through these forums and it is surprising to me that there isn't an easy guide to modifying a standard trailer to fit the Mac. From looking at the dimensions of the trailer, it doesn't look all that difficult to make any >20ft trailer work for someone willing to modify the bunks and the axle position to dial-in the tongue weight. I know there is a new one available via Super Sport Marine. I talked with them and they seem like great people but I'd have much more invested in the trailer than I do in the boat. I'm inclined to buy used galvanized trailer and modify it to make it work which I think can be done for less than half the price of a new one. Any wisdom anyone has on the trailer modification, I'm all ears.

The other issues are on the boat itself. The hull itself looks warped on the aft section above the water line. I've read where people think that the stock Mac trailer warped the hull over time just by sitting on the stock trailer. As long as it doesn't impact the performance of the boat, I'm 'ok' with that. Most people wouldn't notice.

The second boat issue is that the non-slip on the deck is damaged where the mast supports enter the deck. Not on the chainplates, but on the little stays that stabilize the mast as you raise it. It appears that someone lost control of the mast while raising it and pulled the stabilizing support enough to damage the deck. I tapped around it to check for deck rot and other than right near the stress crack, the deck appears solid. Either way, I'm going to need to cut it out, and glass it to repair. If anyone has done this repair, I'd be interested in your input.

Anyway...I'm looking forward to being a new Mac owner! Working on the boat will be part of the fun.

[pitchpolehobie]

Good luck on that boat. The warping could be a sign of more damage than whats easily visible. Unless the price is right and youre real handy w a surplus of time you might wanna keep scanning the used macgregor market-- theres a bunch of boat turnover. The 26D is sharp and a fast boat!

[Stickinthemud57]

I say go for it.

I am a 26S owner. Knowing what I know now about the performance level of the D, I would like one, but the swing centerboard has served me well in the waters I sail. While researching, I came across a web page that described the 26S and D as more a "boat kit" than a boat. I knew then I would enjoy not only sailing it, but working on it, and it has been mostly fun.

How you deal with the trailer issue hinges on several things, mainly the length and terrain of the path home and options for parking if things go awry. What is it about the trailer that gives you pause?

As for the warping on the transom, it sounds more cosmetic than structural, and a person of small build (like me at 5'6" and 145 lbs), the lazarette is accessible enough that you could reinforce it from within if need be.

If I am reading right, there is damage at one of the baby stay mounts. You might want to consider just installing a plywood backing plate from below the deck and filling and dressing the damaged area from above. I have done various mods that required cutting out portions of the liner, and have covered those areas with 3/16" white plex plates. Properly adjusted, the baby stay will experience very little stress when stepping or lowering the mast.

It sounds to me like you have found the perfect boat for your situation. I think I can speak for others here when I say that we look forward to reading how it goes and offering what help we can!

[TrailerTrash]

Good luck on that boat. The warping could be a sign of more damage than whats easily visible. Unless the price is right and youre real handy w a surplus of time you might wanna keep scanning the used macgregor market-- theres a bunch of boat turnover. The 26D is sharp and a fast boat!

I may be exaggerating it and my former boat had a similar feature. I think it is just that the hull isn't all that thick compared to a keelboat and it spends most of its life on the trailer. I'm committed to buying it so in for a dime, in for a dollar.

This one is in really good shape. I've been watching the local market for an extended length of time and this is in the top 5% in terms of condition for a 35-year old boat.

[TrailerTrash]

I say go for it.

I am a 26S owner. Knowing what I know now about the performance level of the D, I would like one, but the swing centerboard has served me well in the waters I sail. While researching, I came across a web page that described the 26S and D as more a "boat kit" than a boat. I knew then I would enjoy not only sailing it, but working on it, and it has been mostly fun.

How you deal with the trailer issue hinges on several things, mainly the length and terrain of the path home and options for parking if things go awry. What is it about the trailer that gives you pause?

As for the warping on the transom, it sounds more cosmetic than structural, and a person of small build (like me at 5'6" and 145 lbs), the lazarette is accessible enough that you could reinforce it from within if need be.

If I am reading right, there is damage at one of the baby stay mounts. You might want to consider just installing a plywood backing plate from below the deck and filling and dressing the damaged area from above. I have done various mods that required cutting out portions of the liner, and have covered those areas with 3/16" white plex plates. Properly adjusted, the baby stay will experience very little stress when stepping or lowering the mast.

It sounds to me like you have found the perfect boat for your situation. I think I can speak for others here when I say that we look forward to reading how it goes and offering what help we can!

I pulled the trigger so I've gone for it! The trailer has so much rust I just don't trust the integrity of it. I'm unwilling to take a chance on killing someone on the road because of my hobby. I'll buy something that will last as I'll need something for my normal transport anyway. I used to be a welder so I'd be comfortable building one from scratch but I think finding a used one and modifying it would be cheaper and less labor.

I'll stay active here, documenting my journey. It is sad these boats are no longer made because it really fits a niche, expanding the area I can sail. We live in one of the best boating areas in the world so I plan to put it to use, keeping Todd at BWY fully employed too.

[Stickinthemud57]

Cool! looking forward to your updates.

I used to wonder why such a great boat is no longer in production. I think the answer is fiberglass. Short of some catastrophic event, a fiberglass boat is going to be around for a long time. Recreational pursuits have changed a lot, so the market for sailboats is not what it was, and from what I see on Craigslist, there are plenty of perfectly good used boats to be had.

[TrailerTrash]

Cool! looking forward to your updates.

I used to wonder why such a great boat is no longer in production. I think the answer is fiberglass. Short of some catastrophic event, a fiberglass boat is going to be around for a long time. Recreational pursuits have changed a lot, so the market for sailboats is not what it was, and from what I see on Craigslist, there are plenty of perfectly good used boats to be had.

That is a good point, I'd buy a used one even if new ones were available and our society, in general, is in a hurry when trying to relax. I see a lot of crappy boats for sale so I might disagree that on the plenty of perfectly good boats comment.

I found a trailer with... single axle galvanized EZ-Loader on the long side. It is 2' longer than the stock trailer, with bunks, torsion axle (that can be slid for changing tongue weight) and is in great shape. A single axle is plenty for the 26D and they are asking $1K so it is in the budget too.

[Stickinthemud57]

That's great news! Are you going to have to switch trailers on dry land?

[TrailerTrash]

That's great news! Are you going to have to switch trailers on dry land?

No... the boat is on an Island in Puget Sound so we are a couple of miles from a boat ramp. I'm going to drive over with the new trailer and we will swap them in the water.

I have the trailer sitting in front of my house, delivered today. I'm currently dealing with some medical issues, had surgery on my foot last week and I'm pretty much limited to my bedroom with my foot up most of the day while popping painkillers. I've managed to have surgery, buy a boat, and get the trailer into my driveway all while incapacitated. I'm feeling quite accomplished and like a total invalid simultaneously!

But...you are always taking a chance buying something used and the trailer is better than expected, I bought it from a really nice guy who was a former State Trooper and he delivered it to get the deal done. I'm sure there will be some adjustments when I finally try to get the boat on it, I'll take a floor jack and plenty of tools and extra bunk brackets so we can adjust but for the moment, things are going according to plan.

Parameters on the trailer so that if people are looking for a replacement for their stock trailer they can at least follow along with what I've either failed, or succeeded with mine.

EZ Loader Galvanized single axle trailer vintage 1998
Length from ball to rear cross member: 22'5" Stock MacGregor 20' 8"
Width between fenders: EZ-Loader approx 80" Stock MacGregor same
EZ Loader has an adjustable axle so it can be moved forward or aft for proper tongue weight
EZ Loader V-Rest & Winch are adjustable and can be moved forward/aft based on the placement of the boat.
EZ Loader Winch is new and has significantly more capacity than needed (3500lb)
EZ Loader torsion axle rating: 3500 lbs
EZ Loader No brakes - in Washington if your tow weight is < 3000lbs you are not required to have trailer brakes
EZ Loader Trailer Weight: 707 lbs
Tire/Wheels: 205/75/R14 Great shape - 1760lb capacity each
Bearing Buddies with caps

[TrailerTrash]

I bought an outboard for the new boat. When I bought the boat, it had a 15HP 2-stroke Upon purchasing the boat, I planned to sell it and get a small 4-stroke. .

When looking at an outboard for the 26D my considerations were:

* 25" X-Long Lower - Keep the prop in the water
* Small format so that it can maneuver it in the smallish 26D outboard motor well
* 4-stroke for noise, efficiency, clean burn
* Weight - Since the outboard is primarily to get me in/out of the harbor, I looked for the lightest option that meets the above parameters
* Reliable
* Price - $$$ always matters but that was secondary to the above.

I had the Tohatsu 6HP Sailpro on my last boat and even with limited experience, I was pleased with how that motor worked on the 26D. I was concerned reading all the forum conversations about 9.9 HP was the sweet spot. I was apprehensive about putting that engine on the Mac but it provided plenty of power. I never ran it at WOT because it just didn't require it. The top 50% of the throttle produced very little increase in speed and at half-throttle, it was still quiet and easy to live with. Would a bigger prop on a 9.9HP provide a better experience? I don't know but I do know that I didn't regret my choice at that time. I do know that the 9.9 HP 4-strokes were all around 40lbs heavier, at the very worst spot to put weight on the boat. I don't have an electric start or tilt, but those were not priorities for me.

So I bought another with a twist. I bought the propane version. Why? Propane won't spill in the harbor, or in the boat. I can mount a 10lb bottle on the back rail of the boat without the need to store it enclosed in the locker. I'll build a small manifold in the engine well with a 'T', a couple of valves, and have a 1lb. propane bottle mounted as a backup for when the main runs empty as a reserve. Flip a valve and it will instantly have fuel, and should fire quickly. I use propane for the grill, the cookstove, and my Little Buddy Heater during the shoulder season so I have one fuel for all devices.

After I've used it for a year I'll review the motor and do my best to outline how it has worked (or not) after some real-world use.

[Stickinthemud57]

I would be interested in seeing details (a link maybe?) of the propane motor. I have an old Tohatsu 8-horse 2-stroke that is going strong, but one day it will be time to replace it. I would very much like to get rid of the stinky gas tank!

9.9 hp would be overkill, IMO. Extra weight is one issue, but once you get up to hull speed, extra hp is not all that helpful as you seem to have realized already.

Nice to read of your progress. Keep it coming!

[TrailerTrash]

I would be interested in seeing details (a link maybe?) of the propane motor. I have an old Tohatsu 8-horse 2-stroke that is going strong, but one day it will be time to replace it. I would very much like to get rid of the stinky gas tank!

9.9 hp would be overkill, IMO. Extra weight is one issue, but once you get up to hull speed, extra hp is not all that helpful as you seem to have realized already.

Nice to read of your progress. Keep it coming!

Well... here is the Tohatsu page.

https://www.tohatsu.com/marine/int/outb ... lpg_1.html

It is identical to the gasoline version except for the fuel system, and Tohatsu changed the head to consider combustion differences between the two fuels. The fuel system no longer has a fuel pump, the propane is pressurized at the tank as it evaporates so it doesn't require one. The fuel enters the engine as a gas, so you don't have a traditional carb with jets, bowl, etc....etc.... In place of the carb they have a "fuel mixer" which I'd be interested in taking apart to see how that functions. They have a gas shutoff valve for safety.

The propane version is derated to account for the differences in fuel density. You still get more energy from gasoline per unit volume, but if you look at the power curve, it only impacts WOT. If you were running a planning skiff or small dinghy, that might matter slightly. At half throttle, the two perform almost identically, so the 1 HP difference probably means nothing in our world of operation at hull speeds and half throttle.

Some Youtube videos.

[Stickinthemud57]

Very cool. Thanks for the links!

[TrailerTrash]

I've been slow to publish updates because I'm recovering from foot surgery, and little progress has been made. I have researched the hull out of things because, well, there is not much else to do while recovering.

I did manage to prep the new bunks. I bought some polyester resin and coated two 2x6x10s for the two bunks and replaced the carpet. I also bought new bunk supports, which I think will allow me to lower the boat another inch or so. I bought two keel rollers to go on the cross-members to protect the keel from dragging across the galvanized steel cross-members. I was going to buy the goal posts, for the trailer but I've put off that until spring. I'll load/unload the boat a few times before spending anything else on the trailer. I was also looking at a ladder to mount up front but once again, I'm going to wait as I may be able to climb directly from the bed of my truck.

Onto the boat itself. I've decided to start with the following BWY upgrades. My 26D is stock, with no upgrades on sails or sail handling items.

#1. BWY Big Jib Kit - Replaces Forestay, all standing rigging, adds adjustable backstay.

#2. BWY - Roller Furler

#3. BWY - Liteskin RF Jib

#4. BWY - Liteskin Mainsail - Adds slugs

#5. BWY - Haylards led aft kit

#6. BWY - Single Line Reefing

#7. BWY - Canvas MacStack Mainsail cover - with lazy jacks + Outhaul

#8. BWY - Downhaul

#9. BWY - Traveler - New mainsheets, and block

#10. Ruddercraft rudder & tiller


That is pretty much the complete shopping cart for the sail-handling wish list. I'm also going to add a line for the daggerboard back to the cockpit.

Electronics and other items:

#1. Hawkeye Depth Sounder (already bought)

#2. Pcnautic Autopilot

#3. Standard Horizon VHF

#4. Navigation Tablet (I already own a Samsung S9 and I'll run OpenCPN for navigation charts)

I'm sure there will be more but this is enough to keep me busy in 2025.

[Stickinthemud57]

An ambitious list to be sure. All good stuff!

I eyed the traveller at BWY, but did not feel the 2:1 ratio would be sufficient, but I could be wrong. I set mine up with a Viadana 3:1, but realized that having the control lines feeding from the starboard and port ends of the rail was not ideal as I was constantly having to move the crew out of the way to use them. I reset everything so that the control lines feed to the center like the BWY offering. MUCH better that way.

I did the Big Jib upgrade as well and have been pleased with the results. Something that I ran into when using the winches with the low profile pulleys (blocks, fairleads, whatever) was sheet fouling. I tried all sorts of things to fix it, but the thing that worked consistently was angling the winches aft.

I choose to set up my own rig for halyards run aft, as I felt the gear offered by BWY stuck up above the deck too much, creating multiple trip hazards. I opted for the flat Viadana deck organizer and Lewmar DC1 double rope clutch. The Lewmar clutch design is superior to old-school clutches in that it is easier on the halyards and has a patented "domino" design for the grip plates that allows the user to pull the rope through the clutch even in its "locked" position. In effect, it is a one-way passage for the line, with very little resistance in one direction and absolute non-slip performance in the other. Here's a link: https://www.mauripro.com/collections/le ... 29101210bk

If you run out of things to do , you might want to check out my mods at https://macgregorsailors.com/mods/index ... ion=782097:
-Super easy forward hatch latch set and release mod
-Dual battery hold-down
-Swing-up battery switch and charger
-Backstay reset to get it out of the way of the boarding ladder
-Pop-top gas struts
-Removable swim deck
-Dyneema life lines
-Plex door for easier access to area under V-berth
-Mast raising and lowering system that utilizes the trailer winch

and more!

Let me know if you want details on any of this.