Looks like complete Electrical rewiring on our Mac 22

[Willburrrr2003]

Wiring is questionable, lights dated and "may" work, masthead light missing, interior lighting needs replaced. With all this I have decided I will be replacing all wiring and lighting on our Macgregor 22. This will be a fun part of our boat adventure . I am not new to wiring, I have 20 years of industrial automation controls experience, and currently maintain my section of functional test carts for Boeing's planes in Everett WA. I of course will get and post pics of progress

Regards,

Will R.

[Russ]

I think MOST Macgregor boats had sub standard wiring. Lamp cord etc. And few actual circuits to begin with. Roger sold bare boats that owners could customize.

With your skills, this will be a walk in the park. Aviation specs are probably tougher than marine.

I bought Nigel Calder's book and found it full of interesting details. I always assumed solder was the gold standard for connections, but he prefers mechanical because excessive heat can melt a solder joint. Makes sense and I never thought about it.
https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mecha ... 0071790330

I replaced my switch/fuse panel with a larger breaker panel. Fuses are preferred, but I hate fuses and checking them while the boat is bouncing, Circuit breakers for the main panel for me.

I added a second sub fuse block for a few devices (12v cooler, solar controller, battery charger, etc.). These are not critical and give me better connections for the high amp demand devices (12v cooler).

Marine grade wire is a bit more expensive but if you are redoing it, may as well. You probably also know to never use solid wiring on a boat. Vibrations cause fatigue and failures. Probably the same in aviation.

[Willburrrr2003]

I think MOST Macgregor boats had sub standard wiring. Lamp cord etc. And few actual circuits to begin with. Roger sold bare boats that owners could customize.

With your skills, this will be a walk in the park. Aviation specs are probably tougher than marine.

I bought Nigel Calder's book and found it full of interesting details. I always assumed solder was the gold standard for connections, but he prefers mechanical because excessive heat can melt a solder joint. Makes sense and I never thought about it.
https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mecha ... 0071790330

I replaced my switch/fuse panel with a larger breaker panel. Fuses are preferred, but I hate fuses and checking them while the boat is bouncing, Circuit breakers for the main panel for me.

I added a second sub fuse block for a few devices (12v cooler, solar controller, battery charger, etc.). These are not critical and give me better connections for the high amp demand devices (12v cooler).

Marine grade wire is a bit more expensive but if you are redoing it, may as well. You probably also know to never use solid wiring on a boat. Vibrations cause fatigue and failures. Probably the same in aviation.

Russ, thanks for all the great information and Ideas! I may pick up that book just to have the good reference info as well! Yes I am aware never to use solid wire for this application. Did you draw a schematic for your circuits?

Regards,

Will R.

[Be Free]

Will,

I've never worked on a M22 but I have totally rewired my 26X. I think the biggest lesson I learned was to not get too locked in to a wiring path. The saying, "You can't get there from here" is very applicable to the interior of an "X" and I suspect it may apply to the "22" as well.

I found very few places where a fish tape was of use but I did have a lot of luck with a steel washer, fishing line, and a strong magnet when pulling wires through the ceiling.

Best of luck.