Mast Crutch - if it had to be done again.

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Mark Prouty
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Mast Crutch - if it had to be done again.

Post by Mark Prouty »

My 96X mast crutch is badly bent. How would you fix it?

Some options I am considering.
1. Make a new one out of PVC.
2. Make a new one out of metal tubing.
3. Correct my bent one.

Locations I am considering.
1. Place a new one like on the M.
2. Place a new one like the newer X models.
3. Use the existing location.

Any suggestions?
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Beam's Reach
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Post by Beam's Reach »

Mine is bent too and I've thought about a PVC replacement. But would PVC be strong enough? Home Depot sells electrical conduit for less that $10 that would fit the existing hole almost perfectly...but it's not as shiny as the old crutch :wink:
Mark Prouty
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Post by Mark Prouty »

Moe wrote:Radar arch :)
I'd have to explain that one to Gromit. How can I when I don't understand. :?

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On edit: After reading Jim's post. I now know that the radar arch refers to the new M style mast crutch.
Last edited by Mark Prouty on Fri Aug 05, 2005 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
playmaker
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Post by playmaker »

I would straighten the bent one. I had do similiar. Mine wasn't quite that messed up.
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Jim Bunnell
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Post by Jim Bunnell »

I had the console mounted mast support on my '03 M. It was a pain. Maybe because the mast is taller than the X, but by the time I rolled it back far enough to pin to the deck, it was over the center of balance and I had to fight to keep it from flipping up. I put on a "radar arch" type from the newer Ms and it is much easier to use. The mast also seems to roll back and forth easier. Another advantage is that it can be left in place while sailing, and provides a nice grab handle for stern entry. I got it form Bill at Boats4sail for $150 including shipping.
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Beam's Reach
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Post by Beam's Reach »

Jim

$150 sounds like a good deal. How high does it extend and where does it attach? I'm concerned about it interfering with my full enclosure.
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

Not sure that the M radar-arch setup will fit an X... anybody tried this?

And Mark, how the heck did you bend it like that in the first place??
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Post by Moe »

I was thinking of two joined arches of 7/8" stainless tubing attached to, or in place of, the stern railings (aka pushpits). Clearance for the opened helm seat would have to be designed in.

As mentioned in threads past, this should be able to support small radar and VHF antennas, maybe a couple of small solar panels, and be an aft attachment point for a bimini.
Last edited by Moe on Fri Aug 05, 2005 11:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Jim Bunnell
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Post by Jim Bunnell »

The M arch attaches on the inside of the transom cutout - therefor it probably won't work as made for the X. It rises about a foot less than the pulpit post I had, about 9'. An X owner would probably need to fabricate his own, but it should be fairly easy. You could use the same mounting brackets and just make the arch a bit wider. You might be able to bend the M to fit, I'm not sure what the difference is between the width of the opening on the X vs. the M. I'm not sure about the enclosure clearance, which enclosure do you have? Obviously the M enclosures are designed to cope with this.
Mark Prouty
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Post by Mark Prouty »

kmclemore wrote: And Mark, how the heck did you bend it like that in the first place??
Bolstered by Greg's advise in the Canopy thread, I built a canopy type carport for my for my beloved boat Double Trouble; nothing is too good for her.

With my proud and trusty dog Bailey Gromit Prouty at my side
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(just wish she'd learn to get out off the boat with a little finesse)
and my son Tim co-piloting, we start rolling to begin our North Channel Cruise - air conditioner on and windows rolled-up.
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As luck would have it, I snag the newly built carport with the mast and the carport and my boom crutch get twisted into odd shapes of metal - twisted metal.

Fortunately the rest of the trip was without incident. I only cracked my Mac's table and the cooler liner.

Sometimes I feel real lucky when Ol' Double Trouble comes back in one piece.
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argonaut
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Post by argonaut »

I think bending the stainless would weaken or break it. PVC should support the vertical load but during mast stepping the horizontal forces are strong enough that my stainless one's got a bend in it so I'd steer clear of it, bigger pipe should work but probably not be pretty. I've seen crutches made from 2x4s though.
My ideal project would be a double arch, stainless, as far aft as possible to allow the seat to still be opened.
As Moe said using two U shaped tubes welded at the top with a mast roller would be great and if fastened to the pushpits should be strong enough to hang off of. It's not a small project though unless you're the tubing bender and welding kind of tinkerer. Wish I could weld.
It would be great to be able to raise the bimini with the mast down, especially on the trailer, makes all the difference working on it. My cockpit stays clean longer too. It could also serve as a crane for a MOB winch, though you probably don't need that where you are. So...
15 minutes: Get Bill's.
1-2 man hours: Have a welder build a replacement, drop in place.
-or-
??? man hours: Design & fabricate the ultimate mast support and be the envy of all X owners. Then post the instructions. :)
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
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Post by Bobby T.-26X #4767 »

i've posted this in the past...
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it's very solid but doesn't serve as a support for the mast. however if it was constructed w/ 1.5" stainless and a roller in the middle it could work.

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old rails were removed & holes filled. access obtained via deck plates.

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placement of arch and spacing of rails were dependent on helm being able to open to provide access.

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it weighs a mere 28# minus the weight of the rails that were removed. is very strong/sturdy as well.
(that whimpy Suzuki 50 has been replaced with a Tohatsu 90)

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in the water. rear stay is attached to the center.
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argonaut
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Post by argonaut »

An awesome mod Bobby... You make that yourself? What did it cost?
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
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Post by Bobby T.-26X #4767 »

1) prefabbed w/ pvc
2) prefabbed w/ conduit
3) purchased stainless and took to bender/welder. he's got all the bends stored for further builds.
4) did several mods along the way. it was like this - "on the Mac...measure..off the Mac...cut and weld...back on the Mac...more measure and fit"

bottom line...many of my hours + $200 parts + $600 labor.
i've created a form for duplication, but haven't produced additional ones.
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Divecoz
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Do Not Use Electrical Conduit

Post by Divecoz »

EMT too thin rust fast and poorly welded as often as not
Rigid . . heavy. . rust quickly. . Galv may well flake off in time and then rust like mad leaving and interesting Orange stain ..
IMC best of the 3 if there is a best. .
There is Aluminum Conduit but its not sold everywhere and at none of the DIYS store's its btw a bit spendy $$$ .
How about Shed. 80 PVC filled with spray foam and capped?
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