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97 needs ballast tank gasket replacement,this is the valve under the step that goes out the bottom of the boat,what can be used to replace original gasket,where can i get the material and how do you go about replacing it,, any help or info would be appericiated,,thanks,mark,97x

I think that the valve is just a standard recreational vehicle valve.

Here is a thread on ballast tank valves

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... last+valve

Mark97,

I have tried a couple of differnet materials for this gasket that fits on the threaded rod. I personally like a little softer compliant seal material, but the neoprene from the factory works fine for 3 to 5 years...longer if kept in the water....

But if you want to go with a factory type replacement, call blue water yachts in seattle 1-800- 688-8626

They have them precut and ready to fit on the rod and nut bar. Word to the wise here tho....

you will save yourself a lot of time if you tape a string to the top of the rod before you drop it out of the bottom of the boat....makes threading and holding it back in place easier without having to put a crutch under the nut/rod to hold it as you climb back in the boat to re-attach on the top side.


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Good luck.

Mark97:

Timely post.
I've recently wondered about that one as well for my '97X
In fact, I was convinced that the darn thing wasn't holding last summer.

I'd empty tanks, close the gate valve. Several hours later, I'd observe 20 gallons back in the tank! Assuming that the hull wasn't compromised, then the only explanation remaining, is that T-Wingnut-handled through valve was leaking.

This year the boat's spent much of the summer in a slip, and I'm certain that the valve is holding.

It's been my experience that the tank fills just fine utilizing the little transom gate valve only. By the time I motor through the marina, past breakwalls, lighthouse and clear of incoming traffic, and am ready to hoist the sails; the ballast tank is always full.


The characteristic needing improvement, is DRAINING. 20 minutes at WOT or about 15 minutes on the trailer at the ramp.

Question:
Under what conditions to you open the under step water ballast threaded through-valve?

ralphk:when katrina came through i put her up on blocks,and tried to filled the ballast tank,but the water soon drained out thru the bottom valve,tried to tighten,clean area re tighted no help,took to lake friday,left all valve's closed,when put back on trailer,ballast was full,bottom valve won't keep water in or out,need to replace,,unless other source comes in will call BWY,,thanks for info

ralphk wrote:Mark97:


The characteristic needing improvement, is DRAINING. 20 minutes at WOT or about 15 minutes on the trailer at the ramp.

Question:
Under what conditions to you open the under step water ballast threaded through-valve?

Well, one of the 'Improvements' made to various vintages of X boats was a larger transom valve, and of course the forward vent under the 'V' berth.

I saw a post a while back where someone either had changed to a larger valve on the transom, or was considering it. I am sure someone here can shed light on that issue!

If I understand the second point, I believe you are asking when the vent should be opened? I learned early on to ONLY open that vent valve during filling or emptying operations of the ballast tank. Right now, even with the raised 'can' around the vent, I still get water in the bilges if I fail to cap it off! Of course I place the gunnels in the water when running with the wind, more than most, I am sure!

I am eventually going to plumb in the mod that will vent to the chain locker, and it will be open most times, but have already bought a ball valve to islolate venting operations.

It takes me about half the time you stated to empty the tank, possibly even less at times!