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I have my lines led aft on my 26X via the starboard side. I was helping a new 26M owner last week with his first sail and he wanted to have his lines led to the cockpit too. But my question is, can this be done with the rotating mast. It looks to me that if the main sail is hoisted there will be so much tention on the mail halyard that the mast can not rotate anymore. Is there a solution for the 26M to led the main sail lines to the cockpit?




ModsEdit: search terms RunRig LinesAft ~fc

I have an extensive post somewhere on this board about this and yes it can be done and you install a swival cam lock on the mast just like the cats with rotating mas have.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... 2351/332/2



Looks like this but larger.

Thanks AYA I found that extensive post. Gives me enough study material for now.

I did it and it works great for the mainsail. Also while you are playing with the M. might want to put a clam cleat for the dagger board line and relocate the daggerboard cleat.

I found a cheek block with the same size holes as the factory one for the daggerboard..and the screws in the boat were long enough to stack them. So far so good..other than a water leak (forgot to seal it..so i got to redo it)

Here is a pic of the daggerboard line..and the mainsail halyard led aft on our M.

It is SOOO much easier to secure the daggerboard..pull it up...lay the line into the clamcleat..then secure it to the regular cleat:





Here is the block I installed on the bottom of the mast. Works quite well. I actually remove it when I take the mast down..why have it flopping around while it is on the trailer.

I am going to run my lines aft as soon as my enclosure arrives. Art at Dowsar says that he prefers to run the main halyard on the stbd side and also the fwd halyard on the port side, even though you have a furler. This gives the mast equal pressure which makes for better rotation. Have not tried it yet but he has lots of experience with this. I am looking at stacking the cheek blocks on the stbd side and running the main halyard and topping lift on that side. Then adding a double stacking cheek block to the port side with the dagger board on one and the fwd halyard on the other. This will keep the lines for the main together. Just a thought. I was also thinking of adding a cheek block a bit along the port side and a block on the dagger board line to create a 2 to 1 pull for the dagger board. I am looking at adding weight to the dagger board and need more leverage.

Paul - can you show/describe the detail on how you tack those blocks onto the mast step...it looks like you just drilled extra holes into the step and then used a shackle for them...nice and simple...

I marked out my deck for through-deck mounts of surface cheek blocks, but am thinking now I will just put two Harken 225s at the base of the mast like you, a double block on the front starboard stanchion, and a double clutch at the starboard winch.

Ill bring the topping lift aft too, portside, but wont use a clutch for that one.

Catigale wrote:Paul - can you show/describe the detail on how you tack those blocks onto the mast step...it looks like you just drilled extra holes into the step and then used a shackle for them...nice and simple...

I marked out my deck for through-deck mounts of surface cheek blocks, but am thinking now I will just put two Harken 225s at the base of the mast like you, a double block on the front starboard stanchion, and a double clutch at the starboard winch.

Ill bring the topping lift aft two, portside, but wont use a clutch for that one.

Yes..I drilled the hole in the step. Then drilled another one in front of it because the first one, the line was right inline with the antenna deck connector. The block I got had the shackle as part of the block. If you go this route..make sure you either plug the daggerboard hole or do it on land, in case you drop the shackle down the db hole (done it a few times). Doing that on the water would be a buzzkill.

Here is the double cheek blocks on starboard (none on port) one for dagger, the other for the mainsail halyard:



Here is one of the block...you can see the shackle on the reflection in the mast step on the deck (click to enlarge to see it better):




So far it works well. I mounted the line lock by the winch..but I haven't used the winch with it..It was just a good mounting location.

Paul

As delivered last spring by Super Sport Marine, our had an optional "Main Halyard Led Aft" setup that is virtually identical to the photos from Paul S.... it does not hamper mast rotation at all. When we add a spinnaker, I plan to do the same thing with its halyard on the port side.

As for 2 to1 purchase on the daggerboard line, I'd recommend it even for the standard board. It's pretty heavy when full of water, and "crew" with less upper body strength will appreciate the change. I simply terminated the daggerboard line with a block - just a little ways past the stopknot & washer. A second line which is secured to the standard daggerboard cleat runs forward, turns through the new block, and comes back to the cleat. Presto - mechanical advantage. I've done the same sort of thing on the rudder uphaul lines for the same reason - cuts the required lifting force in half - very crew-friendly.

Aya16 Lines Led Aft: Clean and Easy

The swivel Cam-Cleat above does look the simplest & easiest, but where does the halyard line go after it leaves the cleat to travel aft. There is mention that it is mounted on the mast about a foot above the deck. Does it then travel down to the deck through another pully to get it flat on the deck before it travels across to the stacked daggerboard pully then back to the cockpit or does it just travel straight off the swivel cam-cleat pully to the cockpit.

Has anyone actually used the Ronstan swivel cleat? I purchased one and after thinking it out, I returned it. Even though it's rated at 330 lbs, I could bend the base of it in my hands. It was made out of a kinda plastic. Probably nylon. I thought that I may rip it off the mast with one good tug. It looked more appealing than the Harken one (about 1/2 the price) and it was rated at higher loads, but. . . .
I'd love to hear from anyone that installed one for this purpose.

---Harrison

My setup is virtually identical to Paul's. No problem with mast rotation. I leave the block on. It may flop around but I haven't notices any effects on the deck.

Hi They theirs. It looks to me that the option with the swivel cam works only well if you do not have a dodger or sprayhood, because to unlock or lock the cam, which is fixed to the mast, you need to swing the halyard up from the cockpit. Am I correct in this?
Also the other option (BBs) is more or less the same as I have installed on my 26X, which I thought would stop the mast turning. But Baldbaby says on the old post that this works fine, only at very low winds this occurs sometimes. Is this because the halyard line can stretch a little? Hmm. I am still confused

Terry wrote:The swivel Cam-Cleat above does look the simplest & easiest, but where does the halyard line go after it leaves the cleat to travel aft. There is mention that it is mounted on the mast about a foot above the deck. Does it then travel down to the deck through another pully to get it flat on the deck before it travels across to the stacked daggerboard pully then back to the cockpit or does it just travel straight off the swivel cam-cleat pully to the cockpit.

I don't see how you could easily unlock the cam cleat if it is at the mast.. it may be easier and faster to install..but I question how well it works in actual use.....especially in an urgent or emergency situation..at least the setup on our boat, you can make an easy flick of the wrist to release it..

Paul

How about a swivel pully without the cam cleat a foot up the mast, then another one at the base plate to direct the line out to the daggerboard pully then back along the hatch slide to a clutch or cleat at the cockpit? That may work better with a dodger.