Installing shore power

[Divecoz]

Well that is what I started to do yesterday and I will finish it today. What a job and I was a bit nervous cutting big holes in the boat even above the water line. I mounted it to the Port side of the Forward Hatch. Ran it thru a 20 amp ground fault and back to the stern where it will branch out to who knows what yet . . . . a couple more outlets one for A/C and a couple of switches for lights ?????? I am going to install a separate charger inlet for when its in the Drive and I can just use a common extension cord . That will require the install of a switch as well so that the separate outlet isn't hot when I plug into shore power. I am thinking I will use switches with indicator lights for that .

[Catigale]

Dive - you can just buy a standard cord to shorepower adapter so that your extension cord can plug right in.

To rehash a previous thread, if you are the anal and/or observant type you can use a standard auto battery charger to keep your batteries topped up.

For nimcomepoops (sp?) like me, I installed a potted marine module in the bilge that I dont worry about as much.

You can then wire this into one of your CB on your AC panel and not worry about that extra through hull.

CUtting that big 3 inch hole for the shore power is a big one, isnt it??

[Divecoz]

I looked at some of those and said what the heck do it so my brother would be proud... Its taking a lot but all will be nice when I am done at least . 110 volt and 12 volt everywhere and lights oh dont forget the lights she says

[JRonUnderSail]

I mounted my twist lok 20 amp receptacle in the front of the anchor locker. Drill the proper sized hole, then fish a chunk of 12 ga. flexible cable back to your power panel. I used a 20 amp breaker, followed by a ground fault receptacle. Most of the time you nose the boat into the slip, why run cord back that everyone will trip on? Just use a rat tailed file to cut a semi-circle into the edge of the anchr locker door, so you don't pinch the cable...
JR

[Frank C]

Hmmm - guess that receptacle does have a waterproof cover, right? My anchor locker has sometimes taken a full, green water bath when sailing conditions are heavy.

But the principle seems valid. Other thoughts about that mod, I used a 2-inch holesaw to cut down through both forward and aft edges of the anchor hatch. Then I used a hacksaw to cut straight through the lips, ending with a U-shaped openings for the rode (or for a power cord) to exit the anchor locker.



Why not just install an AC breaker and outlets right there, up near the v-berth, to isolate them from the 12v system?

[Catigale]

Your AC main breaker should be 'as close as feasible' to the shore power connection ...the wire between the connector and the main breaker relies only on the marinas breaker for overload/fault protection - if you dock at places like where I do you want to minimise this run. An anchor locker install should you give you a nice place to put that breaker forward out of the way somewhere.

There is a minor factor that I like the breaker near the hatchway so that in case of an electrical fire you can kill it from outside the boat, but thats a personal preference and not a biggie.

[Divecoz]

I am paying for a slip and the boat is still in the drive
I have decided to use a 20 amp fuse like you would see on the side of your furnace. Has a switch and a screw in fuse .There is a 30 amp breaker at the pier pedestal and with a for sure blow 20 amp fuse in the boat I should be safe .
I am painting 3/4 " plastic pipe to match the interior ivory liner to get down from the liner to where I need in two places.I am not in the mood to finish this today as its 60 degrees and very overcast today and rained 3" last night.Edit / change of mind . . .Not going to use 20 amp fuse with switch Will not need tubing to get to where I want to go.This project going slowly too many interruptions