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Searching for Mac 26X (change list)

Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:47 pm
by ellsworb
Well guys, i'm finally OFFICIALLY searching for a 1999-2003 :macx: for the upcomming season. I'm in the pac nw, and looking for the best places to search around here. So far i'm using Ebay Motors, Yachtworld.com, Boattraderonline.com, and CraigsList. Looked at a boat today in Gig Harbor, but was not in the condition i'm looking for.

If you know anyone in the area that's teetering on selling their X, let me know and I'll send them an e-mail.

thanks

[email protected]

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 4:53 am
by Lloyd Franks
Two good internet sights are trailersailors.com and sailingtexas.com
Both have extensive listings for all states. There are also Macs for sale right here. See the classified ads to the left. Good luck.

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:52 am
by LOUIS B HOLUB
I found my '99 Mac X in the Classifieds at this site...an extremely good deal.

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 5:32 pm
by ellsworb
Thanks for the replies guys. I HAVE checked the classified ads, and boy is that a cool feature of this site. I also placed a "wanted" ad for my search, and low and behold, already have some e-mails about a couple. This site really is a cool place for a situation like this.

Thanks

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:56 pm
by ellsworb
Great, i have a few boats on my plate. Can someone clarify. Was it 1999 or 2000 when the boats came with all of the upgrades? I remember reading SOME had a FEW here and there?

Thanks

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:11 am
by Craig LaForce
They phased the upgrades in whenever they felt like it.

The differences are not worth basing a buying decision on though in my opinion. I have been happy with my '97. Frankly I prefer the old larger oval style rudders, but obviously the SS cleats and ss rudder heads are improvements. The helm was switched to a stronger rack and pinion type, but then they put some poor metallurgy on the stern tube end of the cable and had a significant number of corrosion failures.

I would think that the type and condition of the motor and the list of boat mods would be much more important to a buying decision. Do you like the electical system, VHF installation, head details, galley mods, sails and covers, compass location, cushion upgrades in the cabin, ventilation, etc.
Even then, most of this stuff can be revised to suit your needs, but you might also spend a year or 2 of hard work and $$ to do so.

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:50 am
by Frank C
My new X (Aug '99) was very close to the first model 2000, and it has all of the upgrades. Even though the factory list was dated Nov '99, it seems that nearly all of those upgrades had been applied to most of the 1999 models. Fact is, many of the second half 1998 boats also had a significant number of upgrades. Agreeing w/Craig, I think the stainless rudder brackets were probably the most important change, and you can verify that by just looking.

As to model years .... each model year begins in July and ends in June. My hull no. is G900 (assembled in July 99 as a model 2000). The second-half '98s would have been produced from Jan '98. Those Hull numbers would end in A898 (Jan) through F898 (Jun). The first model '99 would show G899.

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:25 am
by KayakDan
Check out the "dealer information" button on this site. There are links to a variety of Mac dealers. Most dealers have used Macs for sale,as trades,or consignment.

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:33 am
by kmclemore
Yeah, my boat has many of the upgrades, but not the newer ballast tank with the forward vent. (grrrrr.... rats!).

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:00 pm
by Frank C
Very easy fix, Kevin. Drill a one-inch hole down into the forward tank, through its highest elevated plane. Self-tap a threaded bronze hose nipple directly into that hole in the glass. Plumb that nipple to the head sink drain with a one-inch plastic hose.

Now just "burp the ballast tank" each fillup. Have an adult walk to the bow pulpit, helping to depress the bow waterline before closing the transom gate valve. This should help to minimize the size of that forward air bubble, and should remain thus if the transom valve is air-tight. Add an in-line valve if you suspect the transom valve might admit air.

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 6:20 pm
by Skip Matthies
Frank C wrote
Self-tap a threaded bronze hose nipple directly into that hole in the glass. Plumb that nipple to the head sink drain with a one-inch plastic hose.
Glad I caught your response Frank. The idea will make life aboard a little easier. :) I do want to make sure I have this right - the sink stopper becomes the "brupper", correct? :|
Skip

[/quote]

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 6:42 pm
by kmclemore
Thanks, Frank. My aggro is not so much with the location of the vent, but instead with that danged step that blocks entry to the rear berths. I hate that stinking thing!

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 1:06 am
by Frank C
skip Matthies wrote:
Self-tap a threaded bronze hose nipple directly into that hole in the glass. Plumb that nipple to the head sink drain with a one-inch plastic hose.
Glad I caught your response Frank. The idea will make life aboard a little easier. :) I do want to make sure I have this right - the sink stopper becomes the "brupper", correct? :|
Skip
Skip,
Rather than confuse this discussion any further, let me suggest three earlier Ballast Vent threads, each with further links.
Dec 05
Jul 05
May 05

After skimming those, please start a new thread with any other questions you may have. I'll be happy to clarify my own approach, and there are lots of other good approaches too - Mac Mods pages.

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