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On many boats with outboards, there is a curved bar that twists in the trailer on one end and has a motor crutch on the other to support the motor off the transom.

Anything like this for a 26X?

ps I'm getting my boat back this weekend. It has a 115 hp Suzuki.

The boat extends ~ two feet beyond the rearmost trailer rail. There's nothing standard that can accomodate, and I can't imagine a home-brew that would add much value.

Then too, Chip made an observation once that I hadn't earlier considered. The Mac trailer is so lightly-designed that it has lots of inate flex. A rigid attach from motor drive unit to trailer might cause undue flexing on the transom. In my estimation, a simple strut to fix the motor in its elevated postion is ample. It seems that position is best for balancing the motor's weight over the transom.

Frank C wrote:In my estimation, a simple strut to fix the motor in its elevated postion is ample. It seems that position is best for balancing the motor's weight over the transom.

A strut? Would an example be placing a 4*4 and lowering the motor down on it - essentially pinching the board?

I think Billy does something like that.

Yes Mark.
Actually, I cut a 1x2 at about 15" long. A 1x2 on-end has amazing rigidity/strength, it's easier to make, easier to stow, and it even doubles as a strut to hold the fore-hatch open!

I also angled the ends into points, which makes it easier to insert the strut into the little nooks between the lower drive and the transom saddle plate. It's actually difficult to insert and remove, but then I didn't want it falling free and confusing some following driver. A hefty 4x4 might easier become dislodged by road jounce, so be sure to use a leash with it!

Thanks very much. I really appreciate the benefit of your experience.

I like you guys.

What's wrong with tying a rope from the rear docking cleat around the lower motor a few times and up to the other docking cleat.

On my 2001 Tohatsu 50, I have a lock lever on the starboard side of the engine that will keep the engine from falling down if the hydraulic tilt goes out or looses pressure. I always put the lever in the locked position when the motor is in the up position.
Jeff

Mark, I do use a 1 x 2 under the engine while in transit to prevent any accidental falling down. My engine is mounted about 1 and 1/4 inches above the transom and will not fully lift without striking the back of the aft seat. (Can not flip the lock lever.) The Suzuki uses an offset drive so the engine sits well balanced and probably does not need an outboard support as much as some others. I've trailered the 140 over 6000 miles and so far no problems.

According to Suzuki, their little flip lever is a safety feature only for use when the trailer is stationary. The fear is that the lever's bearing surface could cause excessive point-loading due to road jounce. Some have cited mfg's liability aversion . . . but there it is.

Just to add, I did mention that I like to take a 1/2" line and run it from one rear rudder cleat wrap it once around the lower end of the motor, and back up to the other cleat....takes alot of pressure off the motor IMHO!

I have the lock lever on my 2002 nissan TLDI 50 that jnolan speaks of on his tohatsu. One little trick to take complete pressure off the hydraulics is to raise motor all the way, flip down the lever, and then lower the motor the fraction of an inch it takes until the motor is completely supported by the lever. Engine dealer taught me this.
Rolf

I agree with Tom, I run a line from the two aft cleats, run it behind the crook in the rudders, make a loop around the shaft of the motor and cinch it up real tight, works great, simple and also takes the strain off the jam cleats for the rudders so the rudders are never subjected to road rash.

Rolf wrote:I have the lock lever on my 2002 nissan TLDI 50 that jnolan speaks of on his tohatsu. One little trick to take complete pressure off the hydraulics is to raise motor all the way, flip down the lever, and then lower the motor the fraction of an inch it takes until the motor is completely supported by the lever. Engine dealer taught me this.
Rolf

Our dealer had us do the same thing with our Suzuki DF50.

--Mark

Steve 26 XScuze Me wrote:I agree with Tom, I run a line from the two aft cleats, run it behind the crook in the rudders, make a loop around the shaft of the motor and cinch it up real tight, works great, simple and also takes the strain off the jam cleats for the rudders so the rudders are never subjected to road rash.

Steve...first of all...love your boat's name! Second of all, if I am not misunderstanding you, just to add, I do hope you have drilled a hole and placed a bolt, on your rudders upright position,or as I have done, bolt and pin for easy install, and removal. I can get measurements if ya need em! There are pics in the mod section I believe. This is the first thing that should be done, if you X, or M, does not have one already IMHO!

This will add piece of mind when trailering! I have heard of rudders destroyed by not pinning them in the rudder bracket!