Daggerboard "Chunking" prevention

Published date: November 5, 2008
  • Boat Type: Boat Type

Many have discussed the damage that occurs to the trailing edge of the 26M's daggerboard upon grounding [however softly]. The major design flaw is that the board tapers to a very thin edge throughout its length - a profile that may work well for hydrodynamic drag reduction but no-so-well as a load-bearing surface. Only the lower 57" of board is ever exposed and in need of being sharply tapered. The top portion of the board, which never leaves the daggerboard trunk, should have been molded with a rounded trailing edge that matches the interior profile of the rear of the trunk. After only a few soft groundings during season one, our board had the typical chunk taken out of the trailing edge at the 57" level. Also, this chunking allowed the board to pivot within the trunk, chipping the top corner of the leading edge of the board where it struck against the interior of the trunk.

The fix? Cut a slot in a length of 1/2" CPVC pipe and tape the pipe to the upper portion of the trailing edge of the daggerboard - then insert the board into the daggerboard trunk from above, upside down, to ensure that it will not bind in the trunk (you will then need something to push up on the board from underneath, so enough of it emerges above the cabin top to be grasped for removal). Upon being satisfied with the test-fit, bond the pipe to the upper portion of trailing edge of the daggerboard with Marine-Tex, encapsulating the thin [probably already damaged] factory edge. The 5/8" outside diameter surface of the CPVC pipe fits perfectly against the half-round interior surface of the rear of the daggerboard trunk, acting as a bearing surface and more widely distributing any rearward loads on the board. CPVC [the cream-colored material] is significantly less brittle than white PVC. Curing the chunking problem also reduces damage to the top corner of the leading edge of the board by limiting the board's ability to pivot within the trunk.

After the repair was made, the board was painted black [by over-zealous yard workers] prior the 2006 season, and has not been retouched since, aside from the bottom 12" which always stays wet. The second photo illustrates how little wear has occured over the course of 3 full seasons - see the white stripe where the CPVC contacts the interior of the daggerboard trunk.

Published by: parrothead


Model Year: 2005

Share

Useful information

  • Perform modifications at your own risk
  • Fully research modifications before performing yourself
  • All mods are listed as is with no waranty
  • This site does not make any claims about the validity or safety of modifications posted.

Related Mods

  • Headsail Furling line led to cockpit
    Headsail Furling line led to cockpit
    Sailing - - October 24, 2008

    I added 4 fairleads to the life line stanchions, and a small cam cleat on the edge of the cockpit, to help with furling the headsail. Published by: Wes T

  • additional winches and storage
    additional winches and storage
    Sailing - - August 1, 2008

    As I.m most of the time sailing single handed I did like to have winches close to the steering seet. I installed a pair of winches on the cockpit rail at a convinient place about parallel to the steering column. As I had to cut in holes into the cock...

  • Sail craddle
    Sail craddle
    Sailing - - July 22, 2007

    I manufactured this sail craddle (thanks to Bill Mackenzie) with some minor mods to suit my M. Instead of individual boom attachment pivots I ran one length parallel with the boom and drilled and tapped c/s screws to hold it on to the boom. I do not ...