Missing lock nuts in CDI furler turbuckle?

[PatrickS]

I'm the new owner of a 2001 X and last weekend was tuning the
rigging (the shrouds were so loose, I could pull the lower shrouds
to the side more than a foot!) but when pre-adjusting the forestay
turnbuckle inside the drum of the CDI furler I was surprised to find
that it had no lock nuts. I'm wondering, is that normal, or did the
previous owner "lose" them somehow. Seems there should be the
usual lock nuts to lock the turbuckle at the desired tension/length.
Then again, maybe the design/function of the furler eliminates
the need for the lock nuts?

[Catigale]

The CDI turnbuckle locks with cotterpins, not locknuts

Putting some nylon insert locknuts isnt a bad idea though. Remember the danger is that the furler somehow jams and unscrews the turnbuckle, at which point your mast comes down, unless the 3/16 furler line is cleated off and survives... ....

Nylon locknuts AND cotter pins might be a good solution

There might not be enough room for locknuts to fit of course.

[PatrickS]

The CDI turnbuckle locks with cotterpins, not locknuts

Putting some nylon insert locknuts isnt a bad idea though. Remember the danger is that the furler somehow jams and unscrews the turnbuckle, at which point your mast comes down, unless the 3/16 furler line is cleated off and survives... ....

I attach the original jib halyard to the front railing, where the mast foot
bolts on when trailering, and snug it down just enough to stay out of the
way of the furler but not to reduce tension on the forestay. I figure that
if it's strong enough to raise the mast, it's strong enough to act as a
failsafe if the forestay/furler fails.

Nylon locknuts AND cotter pins might be a good solution

There might not be enough room for locknuts to fit of course.

Why not SS locknuts? I guess nylon would work, but if I can fit
steel in the same place, I'd opt for the stronger material.

Thanks for the input.

[Frank C]

Actually, nylocks ARE stainless steel nuts with a nylon insert that grips the threads -- hence, locking the fastener. However, I'd think in this application that neither nylocks nor flat SS nuts are a good choice. The problem with a furler is that its functional "twisting action" is prone to undo any screw fastener. Cotter pins are the only reasonable choice, methinks.

[ALX357]

I use the standard stainlesss steel ring-dings ( of an appropriate size ) inside the turnbuckle to fasten the eyescrews, instead of cotter pins.
Thread a ring-ding thru the threaded eyebolt's hole and around one of the sides of the turbuckle cage, doing this for each end.
It is a little tricky the first time, but once you get the hang of it, it is easy.
No tools are needed, and the ring-ding will not be deformed or broken by repeated removal, the way cotter pins break after too many bendings.
Ring dings have no sharp edges to get caught on or to snag and unbend, and they will not work loose.

[PatrickS]

I use the standard stainlesss steel ring-dings ( of an appropriate size ) inside the turnbuckle to fasten the eyescrews, instead of cotter pins.
Thread a ring-ding thru the threaded eyebolt's hole and around one of the sides of the turbuckle cage, doing this for each end.
It is a little tricky the first time, but once you get the hang of it, it is easy.
No tools are needed, and the ring-ding will not be deformed or broken by repeated removal, the way cotter pins break after too many bendings.
Ring dings have no sharp edges to get caught on or to snag and unbend, and they will not work loose.

Great idea. Thanks.