Thanks for the comments Cris. I sort of agree with your logic but,
Hull warranty is a non issue because as soon as the boat leaves the US there is no warranty for me
. Bloody long why to send it back to California for repairs. If I buy from the warranted Aussie dealer it costs $14000 more. I can get a lot of hull repair done for 14K so I am assuming the risk myself acting as my own dealer.
Engine HP again is a non issue, as I don’t know how it can be enforced (sailing vessels are exempted here from the Australian Builders Plate legislation that controls recommended HP and weight limitations of boat builders) similar to a motor vehicle compliance plate.
"Why is the Australian Builders Plate (ABP) being introduced?
The ABP is a joint initiative of industry and government through the National Marine Safety Committee. A national standard was developed following an extensive consultation process which included workshops and meetings around Australia with the Australian Marine Industries Federation (AMIF), boating industry associations, boat builders, manufacturers and importers.
The National Marine Safety Committee put together a regulatory impact statement for recreational vessels which highlighted that the primary vessels involved in fatalities were dinghies (57 per cent), open motor boats and half cabins. Of these tragedies, 31 per cent of the vessels were overpowered, 24 per cent were overloaded and 12 per cent of those less than six metres had inadequate stability or buoyancy. At 36 per cent, capsize was the most common initial event in all fatal incidences. The regulatory impact statement estimated that fatal and serious injuries associated with recreational boating costs Australians about A$52 million each year. There are on average 80 deaths and nearly 1000 people admitted to hospital each year as a result of boating incidents in Australia"
A recommendation based on HP is bollocks as transom stress is a measure of force. I.E thrust + weight.
What does a 50hp rating on it’s own actually mean? Can I mount a 50HP diesel back there weighing 200KG (400+ pounds)
Hull limitations should be measured by speed (pounding) or weight (point at which transom will break).
HP is a measure of bugger all on it’s own.
Most boat manufactures, here in OZ anyway, now have to specify a maximum transom weight and power recommendation.
MacGregor says they limit it to 50hp because of weight (not stated) for sailing performance and it is the biggest motor that can be hand started. Again this is a non issue as modern motors (they have been preaching this line since 1995) are lighter and many 50s with electronics cannot be hand started anyway, carry a jump battery instead.
I have personally gone away from the 90 because I wanted to save the 40 odd KG off the back and from speaking to power boat friends where I intend to do most of my sailing they say they can rarely go WOT due to chop and most motor at about at 10-12 knots for comfort. I suspected I would not get the use out of the 90 and the extra boat$$ could be used elsewhere, nice GPS plotter maybe
. But I still have not put the cash on the table so it might end up a 90 especially if I cannot get a 60 in white
.
My wife works for an insurance broker and there is no problem insuring a 26 foot “cabin cruiser” here with a 90hp motor. If I run over a skier or crash into another boat does it really matter if it was a 50 or a 90 pushing the boat? Once the insurance company accepts the contract that is that. Just don’t lie to them or they have an out.
Also if you "do up" your boat a fresh ABP can be issued by a "competent person" for any changes. I.E. an outboard mechanic in theroy could issue a fresh ABP for a bigger motor if the transom was reinforced to take it. Or a boat fitter could reduce the flotation capacity if a foam floatation seat was removed to make room for a bait tank.
Got to love law makers to make it as clear as mud.
with a 90 E-TEC. 