Getting the boat on the Trailer - Gap at front

[pcmb]

Need some advise on how to get the boat on the trailer so that there is no gap at the front between the rubber V and the hull.

I am too scared to drive the boat onto the trailer as shown in the Mac video.

So I float the boat and winch it snug into the front rubber V. Since the boat is floating when I pull out as the boat settles on the trailer a gap is left at the front. The manual says to drive and brake to move the boat forward - don't like doing this either.

Is there a better way? I was thinking of having an additional (removable)piece of rubber that I could simply put between the V and the hull once the boat is pulled out of the water.

Peter

[Hardcrab]

pcmb,
Your idea might be sound. I'd make sure that the hull is properly supported on the bunks however.
Most folks will the bite the bullet and do the "Mac Bump".
I have seen evidence of the winch strap breaking when someone tried to winch the boat the last few inches. It was ugly. I tried that on my very first retreive but stopped due to excessive to me tension.
Some squirt a liquid dish soap on the bunks before backing down to reduce friction. Others wax the hull.
I suppose a combo of both will send the boat over the hitch!
Mac Bump it is for me.
Good luck.

[Lease]

I've never had any luck with the Mac bump, and I've tried all the methods revealed in this place.

You want to be careful leaving the boat back on the trailer, even with something to make up the gap. The weight distribution on the trailer may make towing awkward.

A method not often mentioned is to use either a very snug chain, or a large gal turnbuckle and a couple of large gal shackles to make a mechanical connection between the towing eye, and the winch post. Put this one at the ramp before you take the weight, and it will stay put.

[David Mellon]

The Mac Bump works every time for me, just a routine move after I get to the top of the ramp. After the Bump I jump out and tighten the bow strap and clip on my bow safety chain.

[Phillip]

Go for the Mac Bump.
Its just a matter of practice, and the nuts to jam the breaks on hard enough.
I have a length of chain, with a D shackle, that is attached to the post and goes thru the eye on the bow. I don't rely on the winch strap.
Cheers
Phillip

[pcmb]

The boat has been antifouled will this be a problem with the Mac Bump?

Maybe the washing liquid would help

Peter

[delevi]

No matter how tight in the rubber V you have the bow, the gap will always re-appear when you haul out of the water. Just an angle thing I think. I always use the mac bump. Piece of cake. Just get up to 10-15 mph and hit the brakes... not real hard. If it doesn't move all the way up, repeat. Then tighten the winch strap. I usually hit the brakes medium hard and quickly release, then slowly come to a stop. Works on the first try most of the time. I don't think putting in a buffer is a good idea. Since a fairly large part of the stern hangs off the trailer, there is a lot of load on the winch & strap if the trailer isn't all the way up. Plus, the boat can move around a bit on the trailer. You can test this with the boat not all the way up by releasing a bit of tension on the winch. You'll see the bow tilt up... not good.

Leon

[Hamin' X]

pcmb:

As has been mentioned in many past posts on this subject, you must leave the winch strap slack to perform the "Mac Bump". If you do not leave it slack, it pulls downward on the bow and prevents the boat from sliding easily. If you winch the boat onto the trailer, pull onto level land and loosen the strap until it is not under tension, but will stay connected. Then do the bump.

Rich---Hamin' X---N7ZH

[Catigale]

10 mph is pretty fast for the Bump, I do it from a rolling idle speed, less than 5 mph. Momentum is a great thing. I dont have paint on my hull, so that might be why its easier for me.

[NiceAft]

The good ole Mac bump

It just takes practice. To this day I sometimes have to make two or three attempts before it works. That's life. Those who trailer their boats might be better at it than those of us who only make use of it two or three times a season.

Make certain that afterwards, you secure that boat to the trailer with a strap around it. I secure it at the cockpit area with this.


Ray

[Oskar 26M]

The Bump work for me too. I don't go very fast or very far, but stop abruptly, then snug the bow in with a chain as well as the winch strap. Periodic PTFE type of spray on the trailer bunk also helped a lot.

[KayakDan]

The MacBump works great,especially if the bottom is waxed.
Of course having a blue hull,I have to drive a little faster to do it!

[TAM]

We pull up a couple of feet then rewinch, then pull up, etc. Seems to work fine, however the last haul out bent my winch some. Just not strong enough to pull the whole boat. I'm not brave enough to allow the boat to slide forward on the trailer with the bump though. I'll probably replace the winch with one that can handle the extra weight. We also have used "Liquid Rollers" spray on the v bunk. Seems to help a lot both directions.

[NiceAft]

TAM said:

I'm not brave enough to allow the boat to slide forward on the trailer with the bump though.

With the amount of Mac owners who speak of the ease in doing the Mac bump, I recommend giving it a try Start with a speed of 5MPH, then get a little confidence and do 7 or 8 MPH. If that still does not work, try 10 MPH. The point being is at such small increments, you will feel much more comfortable in the task. once you have successfully done the bump, you will see how non threatening it is.

Have faith. There are worse things which can happen with cars and boats.


Ray

[c130king]

I've done the bump probably 25 times. To me the most important point is hitting the brakes hard. First few times I was a little scared of breaking something. Now I go about 6-7 mph and hit the brakes HARD!

Works everytime. Even with the mast up.

I am more afraid of breaking the winch or the bow eye if I over crank.

Jim