In our , we usually leave the sliding galley in the forward-most position, and accessing the storage area underneath is a problem. I would like to install drawers in the storage area, but I am wondering about cutting the fiberglass bench. I have used a spiral cutting bit in the dremel for smaller cuts, but I am not sure that is the best for larger cuts. If possible, I would like to save the cut-out pieces to create doors over the drawers. Any ideas?
Thanks.
TJ
TJ
Be careful about cutting the fibreglass galley as it is very flimsy, not sure where you are planning on putting the drawers but as the mod page is apparently down can't put a link to my mods or Jacks.
I removed the total front panel and put in an aluminium frame with sliding doors which allows total usage of the space especially with better use of stackable drawers.
Will try and find some photos and post them here.
Bob
Hi Boblee. I'm not putting drawers in the sliding galley itself, but in the bench under the galley. There is enough room to put a couple of 6" high drawers side by side. The bench seems to be very sturdy and appears to be made of fiberglass about 1/4" thick. I don't think that the drawers would comprimise the structural strenght of the bench, as long as I keep the drawers separated by a few inches. What do you think?
Thanks,
TJ
TJ
I think someone has already done that in the mod pages and I thought about it but except for the section opposite the head (fridge on top) it is fairly easy to access and came to the conclusion by using drawers it would cost too much space.
Drop down access doors could work good with enough panel left as support.
I am probably too cautious about weakening structure though, especially as we do a lot of road miles.
Teejay wrote:Hi Boblee. I'm not putting drawers in the sliding galley itself, but in the bench under the galley. There is enough room to put a couple of 6" high drawers side by side. The bench seems to be very sturdy and appears to be made of fiberglass about 1/4" thick. I don't think that the drawers would comprimise the structural strenght of the bench, as long as I keep the drawers separated by a few inches. What do you think?
Thanks,
TJ
So what did you do? How did you cut the fiberglass? Did it work? Are you happy with it? (That's what I want to do to my 26M)
Phil M
I think by opening the top hatch you would be able to access the space far better than with drawers, maybe drop containers in if you want to separate stuff.
Have even made the section under our fridge accessible now by changing the hold down straps so that it can slide without too much bother.
The galley is where you can make the most increase in storage by removing the front panel and installing sliding doors as the area is huge.
I have saved a lot of photos from the mods page. These photos are not of The Yam and I am sorry I don't know who's boat it is. They are lovely mods though, I wish I had the talent to do this.
That is quite impressive. The mod pics do not even look the inside of a 26M. Some sailors are skilled with making upgrades.
Thanks for the suggestions too.
Phil M
dennisneal wrote:Its fairly easy to cut holes in fiberglass with a sabresaw:
Mark the hole with a Magic Marker.
Cover the base of the saw with Duct tape, so that it will not scratch the fibreglass.
Use a fine blade and go slowly.
Use a dust mask to cover your nose and mouth.
Drill small holes in the corners with a bit large enough bit to accomodate the saw blade.
Try to capture all of the fibreglass sawdust, as it is "nasty".
If your results are a little jagged, smooth things with a file.
I have found that using masking tape where the saw blade is cutting and cutting "through" the tape will reduce the jagged edges a bit. I also learned the hard way to tape the sabresaw so it doesn't leave marks.
You might consider using the type of saber/jig saw that allows for a steerable blade independent from the saw body itself.
I was lucky when I cut holes for AC power recepticals and my old jigsaw went up in smoke on the first hole.
I had to buy a new saw and decided on a "steerable blade" type.
These saws have come along way since mine was new.
Very much easier to use for awkward to reach work areas.
It also has a laser line projected onto your marked line way out in front of the blade. Because of this, accurate cuts are very easy.
Reusing the cutouts is an ambitious plan. Great if you plan ahead and hide the starting points with a hinge or something and use a thin blade.
You will be under the gun to make very good cuts, or hide the mistakes under a frame of some sort.
It's a long story, but my brand new 26M arrived with several holes in the side of the storage compartment under the galley that it wasn't supposed to have. Now I'm looking for a way to hide them.
I went out and bought a couple of 13in x 23in Sure Seal Hatches from West Marine (Manufacturer Part #T-H MARINE HAT-1324-2-DP, West Marine #4581567). What I'm thinking of doing is sort of similar to the mod in the pictures posted on June 12 by David Mellon. I know he said that unfortunately he doesn't know who did that mod.
I was hoping however that someone might have ideas as to what I could use for the interior of the storage compartment and how to go about mounting it.
After looking at the sectional drawing in the sales brochure it appears that the ridge on the floor of the compartment under the galley is part of the ballast tank. So I don't want to drill into that. I'm thinking I could possibly make up some kind of hardware to hang a compartment behind the hatches from the screws the galley tracks are mounted on. I'm just thinking that those probably can't take much weight without warping or cracking the fiberglass.
Also any suggestions on materials are appreciated. I'm trying to avoid using wood or metals that will rust. Starboard marine board is an option, but damn that stuff is expensive. So I'm looking for more affordable options that won't rot or rust.
I have used fiber glass board from Home Depot. The thin stuff you use for showers. I have cut them to size and used silicone to secure them in place and separate the new compartment from the bilge. There are three departments separated by uprights out of the 1 mm fiber glass board. The board is resting on the outside hull as well as on the hump from the water ballast. This creates a real nice locker especially for food what you want to keep cool.