aya16 Keep safe and keep us informed of how this goes.... I will mention that I have evidently had , better maybe much better result with my Mercury 50hp 4 stroke with its ...Big Foot as I am throwing a 3 bladed 14x10 prop on her at the moment. I am searching for someone to make me a 4 bladed prop.MHO that could help me immensely. I can hit plane even towing my 9.9 Inflatable with its 6 hp O.B. sitting in the up position. I have never seen 20 or 21 but I have seen just short of 19 on GPS.
700 NM this past winter and I needed and used WOT for less than 1 mile of it. Our needs are much different.
Again good luck keep safe and keep us updated.
repower
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
On the test boat I put the chart up for is probably as close to a comparison as I can get with the mac's performance, MPG, really, I dont care, it wasnt the deciding factor to go this route. But with the new generation of two strokes and the consideration that constant enormous drag as opposed to say a car, (like driving a car up hill all the time) Hp is very important to getting the best performance and efficiency in a boat. Of course this can be taken to extreme where you get the performance but safety then turns to the downside big time.
The goal for me was to get the best performing power and still be safe and maintain the great sailing characteristics of the mac, being the 115 route the safety factor is squarely in my hands as opposed to the limits of the engine to restrict the performance to keep it safe. I prefer this, as it also gives me the responsibility to learn and care for the boat itself. An example would be the rigging. Hull and transom aside, the rigging is going to take a beating at unsafe speeds too, So you could lose a mast from having to much power also if its used in an unsafe manner.
The mac is first a sail boat, with all the same things that can go wrong with a sail boat, over powering can expedite problems like stress on the stays and fittings, None of this is lost on me.
The 115 class engine can be misused, and I feel anyone that cant control the urge to push these boats past the 30 mph point, which they were never designed for, could get into serious trouble. My purpose is to get the performance from the mac as stated in the ads, 24mph to me is optimum, and only in ideal situations, The seas are not forgiving and even my power boat of past that had the ability to push the 50 mph barrier was rarely driven that fast. But what was sweet about the boat was the fact that at 3500rpm it would ride nice and the engine was running at optimum rpm. I have the same goal for the mac. Not the speed, but the optimum performance.
The choice of the 115 over say the 90 was purely based on the same engine with the added hp as the 90. So my thinking is I may have (like) a car that does 185mph, but the speed limit is still 65mph. So as in the mac, the speed limit to me is 24mph, even though I have the potential to go much faster. But in more realistic terms the seas dictate the speed and rarely do we get an op to go beyond 18-20mph.
I wrote this because some may consider going down this route too, some day, and point out that no longer the safety of your boat and passengers is taken care of by the limits of the engines ability to not be able to cross that line, it is now in the hands of the skipper who has it placed firmly on the throttle. A sort of disclaimer.
Will I take it up to the max some day? of course, Im human.......
Mike
The goal for me was to get the best performing power and still be safe and maintain the great sailing characteristics of the mac, being the 115 route the safety factor is squarely in my hands as opposed to the limits of the engine to restrict the performance to keep it safe. I prefer this, as it also gives me the responsibility to learn and care for the boat itself. An example would be the rigging. Hull and transom aside, the rigging is going to take a beating at unsafe speeds too, So you could lose a mast from having to much power also if its used in an unsafe manner.
The mac is first a sail boat, with all the same things that can go wrong with a sail boat, over powering can expedite problems like stress on the stays and fittings, None of this is lost on me.
The 115 class engine can be misused, and I feel anyone that cant control the urge to push these boats past the 30 mph point, which they were never designed for, could get into serious trouble. My purpose is to get the performance from the mac as stated in the ads, 24mph to me is optimum, and only in ideal situations, The seas are not forgiving and even my power boat of past that had the ability to push the 50 mph barrier was rarely driven that fast. But what was sweet about the boat was the fact that at 3500rpm it would ride nice and the engine was running at optimum rpm. I have the same goal for the mac. Not the speed, but the optimum performance.
The choice of the 115 over say the 90 was purely based on the same engine with the added hp as the 90. So my thinking is I may have (like) a car that does 185mph, but the speed limit is still 65mph. So as in the mac, the speed limit to me is 24mph, even though I have the potential to go much faster. But in more realistic terms the seas dictate the speed and rarely do we get an op to go beyond 18-20mph.
I wrote this because some may consider going down this route too, some day, and point out that no longer the safety of your boat and passengers is taken care of by the limits of the engines ability to not be able to cross that line, it is now in the hands of the skipper who has it placed firmly on the throttle. A sort of disclaimer.
Will I take it up to the max some day? of course, Im human.......
Mike
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
Dive thanks it will be safe as I stated above, I have the control now, not the limit of the engine, I wish I saw 19 mph with my suz, I probably wouldnt go this route if I was happy with the performance. I never was.
The eteck guys with their 60hp motors were and are very happy with the engines they have. That is one sweet motor. This all started because those dang eteck's would run circles around my four stroke suz. They planed their boats and had a much easier time controlling the boats, as opposed to fitting the wheel all the time under power as I did.
I thought I would be really happy with an eteck 75, but then looking at the stats, the 75 was the exact same motor as the 90 so that was the choice, then merc had their 75-90-115 offering and the rest is history. I will do full right ups on this as we go along, as well as the performance and pleasure I may get from the whaler, that will have a superb motor now.
Safe is paramount, its one thing to cross an open ocean 35 miles with a broke down boat waiting for a tow, but hanging on to a piece of floating mac in cold water after it was destroyed from unsafe handling is another.
Ohhh I just heard about a guy running the channel in his triple 225 hp motorboat doing 50 mph hitting a cargo container in that channel, so even if your boat can do it, its not always safe to do it.
Im really jazzed about this swap....Now if I find a floating cargo ship container, I have the power to tow it to shore and see what I have. Maybe a whole container full of Suzuki 50 hp 4 strokes......
Mike
The eteck guys with their 60hp motors were and are very happy with the engines they have. That is one sweet motor. This all started because those dang eteck's would run circles around my four stroke suz. They planed their boats and had a much easier time controlling the boats, as opposed to fitting the wheel all the time under power as I did.
I thought I would be really happy with an eteck 75, but then looking at the stats, the 75 was the exact same motor as the 90 so that was the choice, then merc had their 75-90-115 offering and the rest is history. I will do full right ups on this as we go along, as well as the performance and pleasure I may get from the whaler, that will have a superb motor now.
Safe is paramount, its one thing to cross an open ocean 35 miles with a broke down boat waiting for a tow, but hanging on to a piece of floating mac in cold water after it was destroyed from unsafe handling is another.
Ohhh I just heard about a guy running the channel in his triple 225 hp motorboat doing 50 mph hitting a cargo container in that channel, so even if your boat can do it, its not always safe to do it.
Im really jazzed about this swap....Now if I find a floating cargo ship container, I have the power to tow it to shore and see what I have. Maybe a whole container full of Suzuki 50 hp 4 strokes......
Mike
Re: repower
The pontoon boat in the linked test is much lighter than the Mac26. Just consider heavier means lower MPG.
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
Yes the pontoon boat is lighter by 510 pounds and was the only example that came close to the size of the mac on the website.
I hope no one took the link as something I think will exactly mirror the performance of the mac when done. I think a pontoon boat represents
more of the way a mac will act in the water, the mac does not have a planeing step in the aft as most power boats have, and with its long rounded bottom
acts more like a pontoon would, then say a performance power boat. The mac will plane, and plane nicely with less hp, then say a power boat in the 26 foot class.
But it will plane like a pontoon boat would, without a lot of bow rise.
apparently the optimax is very stingy on fuel too, so it wouldnt represent two strokes as a hole in the mpg game either.
MPG, as important as that is to most, isnt my deciding factor in re powering. As long as I dont have to carry 30 gallons of fuel
to go 35 miles Im happy.
Kinda fitting, went sailing Sunday, sort of the last sail before the repower. Great day lots of wind and nice day. Coming in to MDR, I like to sail almost all the way back to the ramp, This time
coming into the break-wall on my right side there is very shallow shoal marked with buoys. A very large power boat cut between me and the shoal, as I was 20 feet from the shoal he just missed me
but at his speed and the size of the boat, he disturbed my air and his wake pushed the mac almost backwards. My forward momentum was stopped and the wind was blowing me side ways into the shoal.
I sail with the engine disconnected and trimmed up. No panic, as I was next to the first warning buoy I power trimmed the suz down, fired it up with a slight touch of the key, popped into gear and pushed the throttle ahead about 3/4's to get going and out of there. The mac sprinted out of danger, reestablished my forward movement in the heavy air, and sailed in the rest of the way. Last act of a superb motor
that saved the mac from grounding. She will get a heavy coat of wax on her new boat for that.....
Mike
I hope no one took the link as something I think will exactly mirror the performance of the mac when done. I think a pontoon boat represents
more of the way a mac will act in the water, the mac does not have a planeing step in the aft as most power boats have, and with its long rounded bottom
acts more like a pontoon would, then say a performance power boat. The mac will plane, and plane nicely with less hp, then say a power boat in the 26 foot class.
But it will plane like a pontoon boat would, without a lot of bow rise.
apparently the optimax is very stingy on fuel too, so it wouldnt represent two strokes as a hole in the mpg game either.
MPG, as important as that is to most, isnt my deciding factor in re powering. As long as I dont have to carry 30 gallons of fuel
to go 35 miles Im happy.
Kinda fitting, went sailing Sunday, sort of the last sail before the repower. Great day lots of wind and nice day. Coming in to MDR, I like to sail almost all the way back to the ramp, This time
coming into the break-wall on my right side there is very shallow shoal marked with buoys. A very large power boat cut between me and the shoal, as I was 20 feet from the shoal he just missed me
but at his speed and the size of the boat, he disturbed my air and his wake pushed the mac almost backwards. My forward momentum was stopped and the wind was blowing me side ways into the shoal.
I sail with the engine disconnected and trimmed up. No panic, as I was next to the first warning buoy I power trimmed the suz down, fired it up with a slight touch of the key, popped into gear and pushed the throttle ahead about 3/4's to get going and out of there. The mac sprinted out of danger, reestablished my forward movement in the heavy air, and sailed in the rest of the way. Last act of a superb motor
that saved the mac from grounding. She will get a heavy coat of wax on her new boat for that.....
Mike
-
beene
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2546
- Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:31 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Ontario Canada, '07 26M, Merc 75 4s PEGASUS
Re: repower
Hi Mike
I have had great results from my Merc 75. You have an M like me, and I mounted transom wedges due to the lack of angle on the stern. I think Bluewater is also mounting wedges on all 70+ installations. I find fully trimmed in, the M gets on plane from a stand still in about 5 seconds. With all that cc that comes with the bigger Mercs, there is quite a bit of torque down low, which IMO is just what our Macs need to get out of the hole and on top. I have water skied behind my M at 22mph and had a blast doing it. Hauled my 220lb butt out of the water and onto my skis like I wasn't even back there.
As you mentioned the Merc 75-115 are the same weight, and I am with you 100% on your decision. I bought my 75 from iboats for $3299 and if they had a 115 or even a 90 for close to the same money, I would have bought one for sure.
I figure I will repower some day also, like if the 75 ever dies, who knows. If I could, I would either go the the 115 like you have, or a 2 stroke 140 like some others have. Reason would be the same as your line of thinking. Never intending on using WOT with a 115 or 140 in conditions unsuitable to do so, just take advantage of the extra power so you could go 18-20mph with ease and much quieter than a smaller OB.
I want to be able to load up the boat, gear and pax, and not have to go less than 20mph just because my ob can't handle the extra weight.
These Macs handle great above 20. I have been well above that in glass like lake conditions and just loved it. Smooth, 1-2 inches of ripple on the water, warm air in your face, bow down, seated and can easily see where you are going....... mmmmmmmmm when is summer gonna get here? LOL
Good luck Mike
Can't wait to hear from you once you get a great set of sea trials in with that 115 back there.
Ciao
G
I have had great results from my Merc 75. You have an M like me, and I mounted transom wedges due to the lack of angle on the stern. I think Bluewater is also mounting wedges on all 70+ installations. I find fully trimmed in, the M gets on plane from a stand still in about 5 seconds. With all that cc that comes with the bigger Mercs, there is quite a bit of torque down low, which IMO is just what our Macs need to get out of the hole and on top. I have water skied behind my M at 22mph and had a blast doing it. Hauled my 220lb butt out of the water and onto my skis like I wasn't even back there.
As you mentioned the Merc 75-115 are the same weight, and I am with you 100% on your decision. I bought my 75 from iboats for $3299 and if they had a 115 or even a 90 for close to the same money, I would have bought one for sure.
I figure I will repower some day also, like if the 75 ever dies, who knows. If I could, I would either go the the 115 like you have, or a 2 stroke 140 like some others have. Reason would be the same as your line of thinking. Never intending on using WOT with a 115 or 140 in conditions unsuitable to do so, just take advantage of the extra power so you could go 18-20mph with ease and much quieter than a smaller OB.
I want to be able to load up the boat, gear and pax, and not have to go less than 20mph just because my ob can't handle the extra weight.
These Macs handle great above 20. I have been well above that in glass like lake conditions and just loved it. Smooth, 1-2 inches of ripple on the water, warm air in your face, bow down, seated and can easily see where you are going....... mmmmmmmmm when is summer gonna get here? LOL
Good luck Mike
Can't wait to hear from you once you get a great set of sea trials in with that 115 back there.
Ciao
G
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
Hi beene,
I remember when you powered up, I was with you all the way. My motor isnt here yet, they had to order it, good thing as Im not ready. Getting two boats ready for the swap is a little harder than I thought. I have the merc ready to lift off the whaler, The back of the mac all exposed for the new cables, wires and the reinforcement. I decided to go with 3/4 plywood inside the mack with with 4 inch wide strips of aluminum across the bolt holes. I want to reinforce the whole transom, so there will be two 12'' by 11 1/2 inch side panels, then in the middle a 16'' by 4 3/4 piece tied to the side panels, the middle will stay 3/4'' but each side of the transom will have 1 1/2 plywood to make them flush across, (two 3/4'' glued together) then a generous helping of 5200 to glue it in till the mounting bolts are bolted down. The 5200 should dampen any vibration's and make a strong bond to the transom inside.
Dont worry I understand it. A notch has to be cut out for the motor well drain plumbing, and longer screws for the ladder.
I do have a hickup, I need to find some kind of tack mounting housing, something that can be bolted to the top of the pedestal, and angled toward the driver, this would keep the top of the pedestal from having a 3 inch hole drilled in it. Remember I have the 2004 model mac, and have the stainless pole in the cockpit, not the new fiberglass pedestal. If I cant find something like this then Ill have the tack mounted on the bulkhead cabin wall, like my other tack is. Ill keep searching the net and hope I find something, race cars had something like that years ago, but I dont want it real high maybe 4 inches high in the back and an inch high in the front, and about 5 inches around.
Im also at a delima on the whaler control box for the suz 50, I want to use the uniflex controller now on the sail boat, but looks like it would be tight mounting it, I may have to get a regular control box. Im using merc's small side mount controller on the sail boat, its nice looking and the same size as the uniflex controller.
Lots of little details, any one have the control box 2004 and under for the suz df 50 they want to sell? New one is almost 300 bucks.
Oh heres a tip, the whaler is 22 years old, the steering system on the boat is the same age, I thought I would have to replace the cable doing this swap after so long. But I dont, I bought, like 15 years ago a little nut some guy invented that has a zerk fitting tapped on to the nut that holds the steering on. When you pump grease into it it forces the grease back into the cable big time. When I took the steering cable out of the motor on the whaler it was full of grease and smooth as heck, I had used black plastic split hose for rigging a long time ago and covered all the wires and steering cable, after 22 years it all looks brand new underneath and works that way too, I think that nut was the reason it lasted so long. You can still buy them, so anyone with with another boat with outside steering check them out.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/store ... 0_225-11-0
Wow beene water skiing? Post a pix???? I did pick up some transom eyes, thinking with all that reinforcement I could tow the dingy from them, any one have any thoughts about that??? Right now I tow from the aft cleats and they are not the strongest things on the boat.
I also noticed that the rudder control rods just pop up from the fiberglass housing into the back of the boat, anyone put a grommet or anything in those holes? its pretty sloppy. any Ideas?
I know lots of stuff to digest here, thats how my brains been the last week getting ready for this swap.......
Sea trials and break in are set around the 24th, two days running around in long beach harbour, Ill anchor at the oil island in side and spend the night, till Sunday, the next week is off to Catalina, with I think Bill and Sue, and any one else that wants to race over, woops I mean cruise over.
Mike
I remember when you powered up, I was with you all the way. My motor isnt here yet, they had to order it, good thing as Im not ready. Getting two boats ready for the swap is a little harder than I thought. I have the merc ready to lift off the whaler, The back of the mac all exposed for the new cables, wires and the reinforcement. I decided to go with 3/4 plywood inside the mack with with 4 inch wide strips of aluminum across the bolt holes. I want to reinforce the whole transom, so there will be two 12'' by 11 1/2 inch side panels, then in the middle a 16'' by 4 3/4 piece tied to the side panels, the middle will stay 3/4'' but each side of the transom will have 1 1/2 plywood to make them flush across, (two 3/4'' glued together) then a generous helping of 5200 to glue it in till the mounting bolts are bolted down. The 5200 should dampen any vibration's and make a strong bond to the transom inside.
Dont worry I understand it. A notch has to be cut out for the motor well drain plumbing, and longer screws for the ladder.
I do have a hickup, I need to find some kind of tack mounting housing, something that can be bolted to the top of the pedestal, and angled toward the driver, this would keep the top of the pedestal from having a 3 inch hole drilled in it. Remember I have the 2004 model mac, and have the stainless pole in the cockpit, not the new fiberglass pedestal. If I cant find something like this then Ill have the tack mounted on the bulkhead cabin wall, like my other tack is. Ill keep searching the net and hope I find something, race cars had something like that years ago, but I dont want it real high maybe 4 inches high in the back and an inch high in the front, and about 5 inches around.
Im also at a delima on the whaler control box for the suz 50, I want to use the uniflex controller now on the sail boat, but looks like it would be tight mounting it, I may have to get a regular control box. Im using merc's small side mount controller on the sail boat, its nice looking and the same size as the uniflex controller.
Lots of little details, any one have the control box 2004 and under for the suz df 50 they want to sell? New one is almost 300 bucks.
Oh heres a tip, the whaler is 22 years old, the steering system on the boat is the same age, I thought I would have to replace the cable doing this swap after so long. But I dont, I bought, like 15 years ago a little nut some guy invented that has a zerk fitting tapped on to the nut that holds the steering on. When you pump grease into it it forces the grease back into the cable big time. When I took the steering cable out of the motor on the whaler it was full of grease and smooth as heck, I had used black plastic split hose for rigging a long time ago and covered all the wires and steering cable, after 22 years it all looks brand new underneath and works that way too, I think that nut was the reason it lasted so long. You can still buy them, so anyone with with another boat with outside steering check them out.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/store ... 0_225-11-0
Wow beene water skiing? Post a pix???? I did pick up some transom eyes, thinking with all that reinforcement I could tow the dingy from them, any one have any thoughts about that??? Right now I tow from the aft cleats and they are not the strongest things on the boat.
I also noticed that the rudder control rods just pop up from the fiberglass housing into the back of the boat, anyone put a grommet or anything in those holes? its pretty sloppy. any Ideas?
I know lots of stuff to digest here, thats how my brains been the last week getting ready for this swap.......
Sea trials and break in are set around the 24th, two days running around in long beach harbour, Ill anchor at the oil island in side and spend the night, till Sunday, the next week is off to Catalina, with I think Bill and Sue, and any one else that wants to race over, woops I mean cruise over.
Mike
-
beene
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2546
- Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:31 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Ontario Canada, '07 26M, Merc 75 4s PEGASUS
Re: repower
Hi Mike
For the skiing and tubing, I use those same cleats you do. I have a Y harness, attaching to each cleat, and then running behind the transom above the ob head to the Y point, then hook up either water ski line or tubing line at that point.
Just imagine the drag this seadoo 3 person tube creates with 3 adults on it, 3 kids in this video, and all on those cleats!
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u119 ... 0_4122.flv
G
For the skiing and tubing, I use those same cleats you do. I have a Y harness, attaching to each cleat, and then running behind the transom above the ob head to the Y point, then hook up either water ski line or tubing line at that point.
Just imagine the drag this seadoo 3 person tube creates with 3 adults on it, 3 kids in this video, and all on those cleats!
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u119 ... 0_4122.flv
G
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
wow what a trip, Kids screaming and the tube gets air, cant ask for anything more than that.
Mike
Mike
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
Up date: the motor isnt here yet, maybe today, its coming from the merc factory, at least I get a brand spanking new motor off the line. What this does to the time line I dont know. Im shooting for the 24th to be done. The dealer assured me it would only take a day or so to rig, so the time line still might be in tack if we start Monday on the install. Either way, If I dont get her back till the middle of the week of the 26th Ill do the initial two hours break in during the week, and then as many hours as I can put on it before Fri. the 1st, then finish break in on the way to Catalina, means no whaler this time, if thats how it goes down.
The delay does give me all weekend to install my transom support, and I may speed things along some by taking the suz off my self this week end. With the whaler, motor less now, I can just lift the suz off and place it on the whaler at the mast up. They say no working on the boats at the mast up, but heck Im just taking a motor off a sail boat, in most cases thats just a 10 hp motor right? Maybe some of you guys will be around Sat. or sun. Phil?????? can help me man handle that suz off the mac and onto the whaler. I wanted to go work the dogs this weekend, but I guess they will have to be happy finding and pointing seagulls.
Really excited about this, for support I did over kill, I used 3/4 inch marine plywood soaked in varnish and 5200 cut to fit from the rudder post to rudder post, this has to be done in two pieces as theres no way I can see putting the 40 inch support piece in whole. So its an "L' shaped piece on the right side of the boat and a 12"x 11 1/2" piece on the left side, tie them together after glued in with a 4" by 4" flat aluminum piece. Looks like Mac used a 3/4 inch piece of ply wood for the motor part of the transom, so My 11 1/2 x 12" sides will be double thick making them 1 1/2 inch thick to make them flush across the 40 inch transom. I then added a strip 4 inches wide 16 inches long of plywood 3/4 to where the bolts will come through the hull for the motor, and then a flat piece of aluminum glued and varnished onto the strip.
This gives me a total of 2 1/4 inch's of transom thickness not counting the fiberglass and gel coat. Using 5200 to glue the wood to the transom, Im toying with the idea of really snugging it up against the transom with through bolts from outside in. Of course the middle support doesnt need this as the engine bolts will pull that up tight nicely, as well as the right side ladder bolts. Just a thought.
Still stuck on the control box for the whaler, using the uniflex controller is what I want, but theres no place to mount it except a 3 inch high wood inside side rail, not enough, so Unless I can make a box of some kind I might have to pop for the all in one controller from suz.
Decided to mount the tack for the new engine in the sail boat where my other tack is now, on the bulkhead near the hatch right side of the boat. Let the dealer worry about running the extra long wires. as this isnt just a tack, its an all in one engine monitor, as well as speed, gas usage, and a ton of other info run from a computer down below inside the mac.
This is a big project for me, and I want it all to come together right, thats why I popped for 59 dollars for a sheet of 4"x4" sheet of marine grade plywood, instead of the regular plywood I have at home, even though it will never get wet. absolutly soaked the plywood in marine varnish and sealed the sides with 5200. Im also hoping the 5200 used to glue it in place ,about an 1/8" inch thick, will dampen vibration and contact the motor bolts have with the hull inside, The suz at idle will vibrate some and it can be heard inside the boat, not loud, but irritating.
Im not putting wedges on the transom, but can later if the engine cant tuck in enough, With the removable steering we have, its no big deal to lift the motor off a few inches to slide them in.
I really would appreciate any comments or ideas to make this better.
The prop for the new motor: The dealer thinks a 13 3/4 by 14 inch pitch is going to do the trick, I think maybe a 14x 12 or 13, crab uses an 11 for a 90hp, so Im going to start with the 14 the dealer wants to try but will carry a spare on the break in of a 13" pitch. I want 5300 rpm max with full ballast, and 5600 with an empty ballast, This will give me ideal speed, I think, at 3500 to 4000 rpm. (the 18-20mph) But as with all the boats I ever had the prop just has to be played with till the right one is found, once done the dealer can convert what the best results we get from the aluminum prop to a stainless equivalent, which is where I going in the end.
Same thing with the suz on the whaler, Im starting with a 11 1/2 inch by 15" pitch and go from there. Then a stainless when its dialed in.
Feel free to jump in with any advice, critasisim, anything, although Im committed to the motor, everything about it is up in the air
Mike
The delay does give me all weekend to install my transom support, and I may speed things along some by taking the suz off my self this week end. With the whaler, motor less now, I can just lift the suz off and place it on the whaler at the mast up. They say no working on the boats at the mast up, but heck Im just taking a motor off a sail boat, in most cases thats just a 10 hp motor right? Maybe some of you guys will be around Sat. or sun. Phil?????? can help me man handle that suz off the mac and onto the whaler. I wanted to go work the dogs this weekend, but I guess they will have to be happy finding and pointing seagulls.
Really excited about this, for support I did over kill, I used 3/4 inch marine plywood soaked in varnish and 5200 cut to fit from the rudder post to rudder post, this has to be done in two pieces as theres no way I can see putting the 40 inch support piece in whole. So its an "L' shaped piece on the right side of the boat and a 12"x 11 1/2" piece on the left side, tie them together after glued in with a 4" by 4" flat aluminum piece. Looks like Mac used a 3/4 inch piece of ply wood for the motor part of the transom, so My 11 1/2 x 12" sides will be double thick making them 1 1/2 inch thick to make them flush across the 40 inch transom. I then added a strip 4 inches wide 16 inches long of plywood 3/4 to where the bolts will come through the hull for the motor, and then a flat piece of aluminum glued and varnished onto the strip.
This gives me a total of 2 1/4 inch's of transom thickness not counting the fiberglass and gel coat. Using 5200 to glue the wood to the transom, Im toying with the idea of really snugging it up against the transom with through bolts from outside in. Of course the middle support doesnt need this as the engine bolts will pull that up tight nicely, as well as the right side ladder bolts. Just a thought.
Still stuck on the control box for the whaler, using the uniflex controller is what I want, but theres no place to mount it except a 3 inch high wood inside side rail, not enough, so Unless I can make a box of some kind I might have to pop for the all in one controller from suz.
Decided to mount the tack for the new engine in the sail boat where my other tack is now, on the bulkhead near the hatch right side of the boat. Let the dealer worry about running the extra long wires. as this isnt just a tack, its an all in one engine monitor, as well as speed, gas usage, and a ton of other info run from a computer down below inside the mac.
This is a big project for me, and I want it all to come together right, thats why I popped for 59 dollars for a sheet of 4"x4" sheet of marine grade plywood, instead of the regular plywood I have at home, even though it will never get wet. absolutly soaked the plywood in marine varnish and sealed the sides with 5200. Im also hoping the 5200 used to glue it in place ,about an 1/8" inch thick, will dampen vibration and contact the motor bolts have with the hull inside, The suz at idle will vibrate some and it can be heard inside the boat, not loud, but irritating.
Im not putting wedges on the transom, but can later if the engine cant tuck in enough, With the removable steering we have, its no big deal to lift the motor off a few inches to slide them in.
I really would appreciate any comments or ideas to make this better.
The prop for the new motor: The dealer thinks a 13 3/4 by 14 inch pitch is going to do the trick, I think maybe a 14x 12 or 13, crab uses an 11 for a 90hp, so Im going to start with the 14 the dealer wants to try but will carry a spare on the break in of a 13" pitch. I want 5300 rpm max with full ballast, and 5600 with an empty ballast, This will give me ideal speed, I think, at 3500 to 4000 rpm. (the 18-20mph) But as with all the boats I ever had the prop just has to be played with till the right one is found, once done the dealer can convert what the best results we get from the aluminum prop to a stainless equivalent, which is where I going in the end.
Same thing with the suz on the whaler, Im starting with a 11 1/2 inch by 15" pitch and go from there. Then a stainless when its dialed in.
Feel free to jump in with any advice, critasisim, anything, although Im committed to the motor, everything about it is up in the air
Mike
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
Well the support is in, some changes had to be made, I couldnt get the bracket in, in two pieces, because of the drain in the motor well I could only get 3/4 piece of plywood and a aluminum flat piece fitted in the middle. This still gives an overall 1 1/2 + inches, plus the aluminum, and fiberglass, the three pieces tied together by over lapping some aluminum strips.
5200 is a mess to work with, but that stuff is amazing, I also lengthened the ladder bolts to pull the plywood soaked in 5200 against the right side of the boat, the other side I drilled a hole through the mac and bolted the second piece in, also with 5200 against the transom. The middle support slid in fine and the lower motor bolts snugged that up nice.
Talking to the dealer we decided to install the newer fiberglass console on the Mac to replace the stainless post, I just happen to have one, thanks Mike, here We will de rig the mac of steering and all the other stuff mounted on the old console, The dealer will bench install everything into the new console then install it on the boat. I want some of the stainless tube left so the dealer is cutting the stainless post about 4 inches above the deck, this ensures the water tightness and the tube will have a rubber boot over all the wires and cables. At least thats the plan now.
Going back to the mac today to finish up, probably wont take the suz off, as time has caught up with me, it took all day to install the transom braces yesterday. Ohh ran into Pat Saturday, he's going to Catalina with us Bill, on the 1st. Anyone else want to tag along that would be great.
Mike
5200 is a mess to work with, but that stuff is amazing, I also lengthened the ladder bolts to pull the plywood soaked in 5200 against the right side of the boat, the other side I drilled a hole through the mac and bolted the second piece in, also with 5200 against the transom. The middle support slid in fine and the lower motor bolts snugged that up nice.
Talking to the dealer we decided to install the newer fiberglass console on the Mac to replace the stainless post, I just happen to have one, thanks Mike, here We will de rig the mac of steering and all the other stuff mounted on the old console, The dealer will bench install everything into the new console then install it on the boat. I want some of the stainless tube left so the dealer is cutting the stainless post about 4 inches above the deck, this ensures the water tightness and the tube will have a rubber boot over all the wires and cables. At least thats the plan now.
Going back to the mac today to finish up, probably wont take the suz off, as time has caught up with me, it took all day to install the transom braces yesterday. Ohh ran into Pat Saturday, he's going to Catalina with us Bill, on the 1st. Anyone else want to tag along that would be great.
Mike
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
big glob of 5200 found in my hair.......This is starting to get costly, hair wise anyway. All the things that will take it out of my hair will also get rid of the hair too.
any thoughts?
Mike
any thoughts?
Mike
-
technicalman
- Engineer
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 11:57 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26S
- Location: Palmdale
- Contact:
Re: repower
Hair grows back. 5200 doesn't. Take it all down to a trimmer setting #1 and tell people your doing it to support a friend who is ill. 
-
aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
Re: repower
Still no motor...tick tick tick. Maybe today. Was assured by the dealer that they would jump right on it as soon as it comes. Im going to the boat today to lower the mast and start taking the control box and
motor cables along with the gauges off today to get a start on this. With cutting the stainless post and installing the new console it probable only adds a couple hours to the install, I did notice the new post will have to be trimmed a bit on the sides to get past the old post deck flange, no big deal either. Mounting brackets will be used fore and aft instead of side to side and some kind of skirt can be put around the pedestal for looks. I might be re-rigging some junk up in Catalina, like the auto pilot and the depth finder, new compass things like that. And all the new wires and cables will be wrapped in a rubber sleeve going into the stainless post nub left after cutting.
I would take the suz off but dont want to strain my back and then not be able to go out for a week after its done. Wheres my nephew when I need him? any way wont be a problem, Ill rig the whaler with the control box and wires and install the ignition so basically the suz will be just plug and play when its transferred.
Im still committed to Catalina on the first, so If Im breaking the engine in that day we leave Ill just run the engine up and down on the way, Two hours of the motors first life is the most critical and I should get that done going over to the island, just have to deal with the smoke some as the engine uses double oil first ten hours. Which reminds me get an extra gallon of optimax oil for the trip, that stuff is hard to find I guess, I havent seen any at west marine, anyway.
5200 still in my hair, as its too the scalp Ill just wear it as a badge of honor till it grows out.....Dang should have used black 5200 then I could of just dyed my hair black.
Mike
motor cables along with the gauges off today to get a start on this. With cutting the stainless post and installing the new console it probable only adds a couple hours to the install, I did notice the new post will have to be trimmed a bit on the sides to get past the old post deck flange, no big deal either. Mounting brackets will be used fore and aft instead of side to side and some kind of skirt can be put around the pedestal for looks. I might be re-rigging some junk up in Catalina, like the auto pilot and the depth finder, new compass things like that. And all the new wires and cables will be wrapped in a rubber sleeve going into the stainless post nub left after cutting.
I would take the suz off but dont want to strain my back and then not be able to go out for a week after its done. Wheres my nephew when I need him? any way wont be a problem, Ill rig the whaler with the control box and wires and install the ignition so basically the suz will be just plug and play when its transferred.
Im still committed to Catalina on the first, so If Im breaking the engine in that day we leave Ill just run the engine up and down on the way, Two hours of the motors first life is the most critical and I should get that done going over to the island, just have to deal with the smoke some as the engine uses double oil first ten hours. Which reminds me get an extra gallon of optimax oil for the trip, that stuff is hard to find I guess, I havent seen any at west marine, anyway.
5200 still in my hair, as its too the scalp Ill just wear it as a badge of honor till it grows out.....Dang should have used black 5200 then I could of just dyed my hair black.
Mike