Well now, it seems that the most common leaks come from the chain plates fore/mid, and that you hard seal hardware to deck and silicone around upper joint where it protrudes through deck plate. Is there any reason we couldn't fashion a tight fitting rubber boot to slip around top of deck plate and vertical piece? Has anybody thought of this or tried it? Could it work?
2BonC wrote:Glenn,
the work You have done looks good and I would like to do the same but I´m affraid g, why?
There must be a metalplate be installed inside the GFC-shell to take up the pulling foces from the shrouds via the rivets. If the rivets are thrilled out how can it be asured that this plate doesn´t fall off ?You might overcome this by putting a bent wire through the hole after the first rivet was thrilled out with the second one still in place. But I´m not sure that this will work all the time one has to fiddle around with the rest of the assembly .
How can the required length of the new poprivets be found out? There is a good chance that the rivets are not compressed against the metalplate but against the GFC, You wouldn´t notice that unless the shrouts are haevyly loaded.
Did You find a way to take care of the points mentioned before? If so please let us know. All the best
Rainer
The large vertical bit of stainless steel takes the forces excerted from the mast and sails, by drilling out the rivets all you are doing is releasing the top cover plate, that's the plate I'm holding, there is no other plate underneath, the rivets simply hold the top stainless plate in contact with the hull.
I'll look Tommorrow at the size rivets I used, too small a diameter rivet will give a sloppy job, too short a rivet will apply undue pressure and could damage the Fibreglass, you need to use a rivet that leaves a good tail inside the hull, we use these techniques a lot while repairing body kits on the Rice Racers cars.
SkiDeep2001 wrote: Well now, it seems that the most common leaks come from the chain plates fore/mid, and that you hard seal hardware to deck and silicone around upper joint where it protrudes through deck plate. Is there any reason we couldn't fashion a tight fitting rubber boot to slip around top of deck plate and vertical piece? Has anybody thought of this or tried it? Could it work?
I mentioned the very same idea on a different thread a week or so ago, as the say "Great Minds Think Alike", I've been going through the automative parts catalogues looking at the different styles of boots, rubber and silicon, so far no luck, one of my parts suppliers suggested Liquid Latex from the local Adult shop, wonder what his hobbies are
For those interested the Rivets that I have used are sealed stainless 4.8mm Diam (3/16") with a grip of 9.6mm (3/8").
Glenn, I just had an , how about an old neoprene wetsuit (which I don't have), It is fairly thick, you cut to size for base dimension and just put a slit in center with an exacto knife. Slide down upright and glue base. I would think it would be able to flex freely yet tight enough to give a good seal at joint where they leak. Plus wouldn't look as crappy as silicone glopped all over stainless/chrome. Am I a genius? if it works, or just a legend in my own mind
I'm looking for something that shrink to fit the shroud plate then go around the chain plate cover, rivets could hold the lot together in contact with the boat, that would then stop water entering when the shroud plate has any movement in relation to the chain plate cover. I might end up making my own, if so they will be white and as thin as possible ... till then I'm happy with the sealing job that I did on the existing system. Been through a few heavy storms without a drop getting in .. Gotta be happy with that.
Can you buy the stuff they make heat shrink tubing out of? I know Harbor Freight has some pretty big diameter HS tubing. probably available from most auto parts/electric stores. That might work. I may give that a shot since I don't have an old wet suit laying around anyway. I just don't know if it will loosen up when exposed to the elements.
Does anyone have any pics of the sliding companionway hatch and what to look for? I get water in the bildge when it rains, but the rest of the boat stays dry. The chainplates look to be in good shape, but will probable run a small bead around them just to make sure. Is 3M 5200 good for this?
Greg, Just bought my X in January and had this discussion. Use 5200 between plate and deck and silicone on top. There is a lot of flexing,so I've been told silicone is better on upper side. Check this link. http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... 30#p150954 . There are a couple of us discussing a rubber boot of some kind to seal. Keep your eyes open for posts. Good Luck.
PollyAnna wrote:Does anyone have any pics of the sliding companionway hatch and what to look for? I get water in the bildge when it rains, but the rest of the boat stays dry. The chainplates look to be in good shape, but will probable run a small bead around them just to make sure. Is 3M 5200 good for this?
Thanks,
Gregg
Is water getting in through the hatch track or flowing down the cabin roof and rolling under the hatch, this can happen if like us your boat is stored on it's trailer stern down.
To find out if water is getting in this way put some duct tape from track to track covering the gap between the hatch and cabin top then add water by bucket or hose, with the cabin door removed or someone inside you will know if water is still getting in, if that stops the water getting in try adding a cars door seal across the front edge of the hatch.
Well now, it seems that the most common leaks come from the chain plates fore/mid, and that you hard seal hardware to deck and silicone around upper joint where it protrudes through deck plate. Is there any reason we couldn't fashion a tight fitting rubber boot to slip around top of deck plate and vertical piece? Has anybody thought of this or tried it? 
g, why?
?You might overcome this by putting a bent wire through the hole after the first rivet was thrilled out with the second one still in place. But I´m not sure that this will work all the time one has to fiddle around with the rest of the assembly
and let water into the boat in a very serious way..documented under 'compression post failure' in main board, FWIW