BRAKE BLEEDING NUTS

[GARY WEEKLY]

WELL WE ALL GET THIS ONCE IN A WHILE,,IT SEEMS MY BRAKE BLEEDING NUTS ARE RUSTED SOLID,,ANYONE DRILLED THEM OUT AND INSTALLED ONES OF A DIFFERENT SIZE?

[Moe]

The best thing I've found for freeing up frozen bolts, etc is soaking with PB Blaster. It works better than any other product I've tried. You might try that first.

--
Moe

[Chip Hindes]

You need to get the old bleed screw out without terminally damaging the cylinder. The chances that you would be able to drill out, retap, and then install a new, larger screw, in place on the wheel, without further damaging somethng beyond repair, and then get the whole business back together so it doesn't leak fluid, I believe are vanishingly slim. Not to mention the special tools required.

First, the best tool for breaking the screws loose is a proper sized deep well socket. An open end wrench will round over even mildly seized screws, and due to the limited clearance it is difficult to seat a box end wrench on a rusty screw. Been there, done that. Also, a six pointed socket will be less likely to damage the screw than the more typical 12 point version. Some regular sockets may fit, but I've found you usually need a deep socket to allow it to seat fully over the nipple. Put it on the screw, make sure the flats are lined up, then whack it lightly a couple times with a hammer to cut through the rust on the outside and make sure it's seated fully on the screw. This usually does the trick if they're not already damaged.

If they're already damaged beyond wrenching, which I assume is fairly likely or you wouldn't be asking, I've never found one yet that I couldn't free with a couple drops Liquid Wrench, a hammer and a pair of vise grips. A new screw is about $4. Make sure you immediately and thouroughly flush out the Liquid Wrench by pumping it through the fitting hole with brake fluid. It's not compatible with brake fluid and may damage the rubber parts.

If you really can't get the screw out, a machine shop could probably do it, but you'll have to remove the cylinder and carry it in to them anyway. So, if you're already past the point of no return, I'd suggest a new cylinder complete at $14, (plus shipping from Champion Trailers), $10 more if you've trashed the brake line and have to replace that as well. If you're in a hurry, probably a bit more at your local auto parts store, a good one will have the parts you need; take the old parts with you. Can't imagine a machine shop could salvage the old one for less than that.

If you have to disconnect any brake lines, first go to your local discount auto parts store and splurge on a proper sized flare nut wrench. It will cost you no more than a couple bucks. Flare nut wrenches grip hex nuts on the brake lines on five of the six sides, compared to a standard open end wrench which grips on only two sides, and of course you can't use a box wrench or socket on line nuts. Again, Vise Grips is the ultimate solution which you would like to avoid.

BTW, Champion has new aluminum cylinders which presumably would be more resistant to recurrence of this problem, for $23+.

If you want all your braking problems to disappear forever, completely (well most of them, anyway) I personally would recommend while you're at it, spend just under $300+ for everything you need to retrofit new disc brake hubs with SS rotors, aluminum calipers, new lines and a lockout solenioid. Not too tough to install, and about as close as you can get to no maintenance.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

re-do the brakes!
the entire inner drum (galvanized w/brake shoes) for both will run you under $150.
add new bearings and a splindo seal and your set!

[Jack O'Brien]

My calipers had brass bleed bolts frozen in aluminum calipers. Local auto mechanic used a torch and an "outside easy-out" to get them out. If I can I'll find SS bleed bolts and use Never-Seize.