Fuel Line Filter / Water Separator

[Captain Jim]

For those of you who have installed a fuel line filter/water separator, how was it done? Did you place the priming bulb between the gas tank and the filter or between the filter and the outboard engine?

Jim

[Russ]

Can't comment much. A little gas additive (alcohol) seems to mix the moisture enough that the motor can burn it.


---Russ

[Traveler]

The filter/separator should be after the priming bulb. Fuel tank, primer bulb, filter/separator, engine.
Mine has worked well in this configuration.

Hope this helps

[Sumner]

The filter/separator should be after the priming bulb. Fuel tank, primer bulb, filter/separator, engine.
Mine has worked well in this configuration.

Hope this helps

Not saying you are wrong as it looks like people hook these up both ways, but with a Racor filter/separator they say to put it on the suction side which would put the primer between the filter and the engine.

I also found this link that seems to be pretty good....

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/primer.html

And on another site a guy mentioned the following:

A lot of folks install a Racor filter in the outboard well right were the fuel line comes thru the hull. They
put the 'disconnect' fitting on the Racor. Then they can connect the regular hose with the squeeze bulb
between it and the engine.

I'm ordering a RACOR Model #: 120R-RAC-01 .......

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=569700

but I'm also considering this one (Racor 490RRAC01) that has the primer as part of the filter.....

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/Racor+49 ... ilter.html

....it would then for sure solve where the primer is located

I think Racor doesn't want pressure on the filter, but wants the fuel drawn through it. The pressure from the bulb is probably not enough to make a difference compared to having an in-tank pump like you might find in some non-outboard situations that would use the same filter.

It looks like it is your choice as Traveler has shown that before works and others have shown that after works also. One thing I have read over and over is that if you are having problems getting the bulb hard and primed point the arrow on it skyward while pumping. Never knew that before, but then again I haven't had problems with priming.

c ya,

Sum

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[Waterbear]

Have placed Racor's see thru 10 micron filters on my 8 hp and 50 hp Yamahas, directed by Yamaha to place
in this order fuel tank, filter, then priming bulb.

[ROAD Soldier]

Question has anyone ever had there outboard on their Mac stop running because of water in the fuel? I kept my Mac Slipped 80% of the time last year in a very humid environment and never once had a problem with water in the fuel. Granted I dont pay 50 cents more for Marine unleaded fuel I just fill up a a roll away tank from a regular gas station and then refuel my Mac with that. I always pictured water being an issue with diesel and aircraft fuels such as Jet A. Even in Minnesota where I was raised all we would do when water freezed in our auto fuel lines at -30 Degrees was just add Heat which is basically an alchol additive. Seems it would be a lot easier carrying one bottle of that in your Boat then adding another potential area for something to go wrong, like having the filter bowl crack, inlet or outlet fitting come loose, or just creating another maintening maintenance thing you have to inspect and serivice that you dont need. I dont know $2.00 for Heat that I have not used yet in 2 years or $86.00 dollars for a fuel filter?

[NiceAft]

Because of the ethanol, even with a Fuel Line Filter / Water Separator, you should try to consume the fuel you put in your tanks within two weeks. The longer the time beyond two weeks, the more you will be testing the system.

Try to keep your vents closed on the tanks whenever you don't need to have them open.

ROAD soldier said:

Heat which is basically an alcohol additive.

I'm guessing, that "Heat" is similar to "Dry Gas". Today, your gas already comes with it, ETHANOL It absorbs the moister, just like your "Heat" did, but it will constitute a much greater percentage of your fuel. I'm guessing that you did not place in your tanks enough of the product to equal 10% of your existing fuel. The ethanol will suck moister from the air surrounding the fuel in your tank. That's why we add additives such as STA-BIL. It's still best to use the fuel in your tanks within two weeks.

In the marina where we slip Nice Aft, we are not allowed to fill our tanks at the slip.

Ray

[argonaut]

Not saying you are wrong as it looks like people hook these up both ways, but with a Racor filter/separator they say to put it on the suction side which would put the primer between the filter and the engine.

I installed the Racor filter. My experience installing it was that it works far better if installed -AFTER- the bulb.

If installed upstream you have two issues.
First when you prime you are pulling fuel through the filter and that only happens on the "release" of the bulb. So it can only "suck" to the extent the rubber bulb itself can reform after you squished it with your hand. It was a lot slower just getting the system primed than before I put the filter in. It would take maybe 6-10 seconds per squeeze.
Second, I experienced the bulb actually being sucked flat by fuel pump vacuum when underway. My motor started running rough then barely at all... when I checked the lines the bulb, standard Yamaha issue, was absolutely flat. I stopped the boat and replaced it with a double barb and hose clamps till I could get home.

Moving the bulb back to the tank it worked far better for me. Priming the system now, fuel easily fills the bulb from the tank on the suction stroke, and the pressure stroke can force fuel through the added fluid resistance of the filter.

My Yammy still purrs like a kitty a year after switching to ethanol-free gas + 10 micron filter + Stabil Marine formula. Sailing is much more entertaining that being a mechanic.

[Sumner]

................The ethanol will suck moister from the air surrounding the fuel in your tank. That's why we add additives such as STA-BIL. It's still best to use the fuel in your tanks within two weeks........Ray

If we were just going to be sailing in the West I wouldn't add the filter/separator since we can easily get non-ethanol gas. In fact most places you can't get it. We plan a long trip to Florida next year and it looks like it might be very hard to find non-ethanol there. I've just read to many stories about water in the gas with it, so will put the filter on,

Sum

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[Russ]

Question has anyone ever had there outboard on their Mac stop running because of water in the fuel? I kept my Mac Slipped 80% of the time last year in a very humid environment and never once had a problem with water in the fuel.

That's my thought as well. On my first boat I had some water in the fuel, it didn't like it and ran terrible, but still ran. On my Hunter, I installed 2 Raycor filter/separators because diesels don't tolerate water or dirt in the fuel at all. However I still managed to get funk in the diesel once.

I really don't believe there is any difference in "marine" gasoline vs. automobile except the boat tax and maybe the alcohol content. Our marina does offer only medium octane grade gasoline. Given a choice, I would buy my fuel from a place that pumps a lot of it and it's not stale or full of water. Now, in the beginning of the season, we fill up the two 12 gal tanks at a truck stop on the way to the marina. I also used to buy my diesel from a truck stop that pumped a lot of it. Pouring diesel from a jug is a PITA but made me feel better knowing it wasn't contaminated or containing water. I'm not sure I would do that with gasoline though.
Marinas that don't pump a lot of fuel or are shut down in the winter made me nervous. Did their tanks condense over the winter? Are they sticking their tanks and testing for water? If they found water, would they actually correct it?

I've also heard it said that you should NEVER pump fuel when the vendor is getting a new delivery of it from their tanker trucks. The rush of new fuel into their tanks stirs up the bottom where any water is settling. This applies to automotive gas stations as well as marinas. Car engines are much more tolerant of water than marine engines.

As for the 2 week stale issue, I'm never gonna use my fuel that fast. I suppose adding Sta-Bil or some other conditioner is the right thing to do, but I'm generally to lazy to remember.

For those who install filter/separators, you can't go wrong with more filtering, especially when fueling in unknown conditions. My only advice would be to be careful with connectors as each one is a possible leak that could cause your motor to suck air instead of fuel, so use good clamps.

--Russ

[The Mutt]

We repair cars, trucks etc in Australia, we hear all the time about problems caused by Ethanol in fuel, parts of the fuel line dissolve and block up other parts, every car we have seen with this problem has had to have everything replaced, the fuel tank, filters, lines, injectors, everything. We now use Premium grade fuel for our outboard.

Glenn

[trip01]

Summary + 1 from my interpretation of this post.


* Use premium grade fuel (less likely to attract moisture & has no ethanol)
* Use no Ethanol (bad medicine for fuel lines)
* buy fuel from busy servo (stale fuel may have moisture)
* Install a fuel filter/moisture separator between tank & bulb (as moisture preventative)
* Don't let fuel in tank age more than 2 weeks (less likely to attract moisture)
* Close the airlock on tanks when stored (to keep moisture out)

I understand that it is best to fill the tanks on return from a boating trip. Reason being, the full tank is less likely to have moisture form inside.
[I keep the airlocks open to save the tanks splitting from becoming blown up from the heat.]


Kind Rgds
Dave
26M / Yamaha 60hp 4 str 2007 (I remember reading that this motor has some sort of moisture detection/warning device) Anyone else with same

[ROAD Soldier]

Ok I have not had problem one using the local 10% ethanol based fuel in the past 2 years. The problems you hear about are from old boats with fiberglass fuel tanks built into the hull. Ethanol and fiberglass don't mix. Also some older car engines especially the ones that ran on old leaded gasoline can't take that fuel without damaging their valves over time. Now whether or not it causes damage to your fuel line big deal. Unless you have gone off the deep end on your fuel system you line is right there and easy to get at and replace. I went to WM and got a universal 3/8 line to replace my Honda 1/4 line and had to go to a Honda dealer to get the newer fitting for the engine that would allow me to use the line all for about $30 dollars including fittings that will not have to be replaced next time. Line by itself probable $10 bucks. People you are not working on a Japanese econobox car that gives you no room to work on. Spend your money on cool stuff not protecting yourself from that once in million years meteoroid shower stuff.

[NiceAft]

Sumner,

If the reason you want a filter is because you are going to Florida, then save your money. If you use Sta-Bil, and you consume the fuel in about two weeks, you're fine.

I am on the east coast, and I only had a problem once. I filled both 12 gallon tanks, and only used up fuel in one. The other tank sat for about three weeks with the vent open. I had a water problem. Since then I use Sta-Bil and I only vent when necessary. Most important:I don't fill the tanks, and then not use the fuel.

Ray

[Russ]

Ok I have not had problem one using the local 10% ethanol based fuel in the past 2 years. The problems you hear about are from old boats with fiberglass fuel tanks built into the hull. Ethanol and fiberglass don't mix.

The other problem is with OLDER tanks and lines with varnish buildup. Suddenly you introduce 10% alcohol and years of buildup dissolves and heads towards your motor. I feel a clean tank and lines prepared for alcohol fuel shouldn't really have a problem. None of us have built in fiberglass tanks and the portable tanks should handle alcohol fuels.

Nevertheless... a prudent sailor will filter filter filter what goes into his motor.

Or like me...add some Sta-Bil when thinking of it and try to keep tanks and lines clean and wish for the best. Now if I were boating offshore or in questionable waters.... I might take more careful measures.

---Russ