Docking for a Beginner please help

[Rocketman1098]

I have been sailing the 26M for 3 years now. Still, everytime I come into a marina full of boats I get nervous. The boat is so light and has so much freeboard I feel like I am tossed around like a paper boat. I agree with dagger and rudders down while maintaining a safe speed..I.e.- one that you can put the motor in reverse and get out of trouble! I don't think there is any easy answer to this. Moving too slow is a problem..moving too fast can be a problem! Need to find a speed that will work for you. Also, knowing how tricky the boat is to handle in a wind I try and plan on docking on the leeward side. Letting the wind push me in. I once tried several attempts to dock with the wind blowing fairly hard at 90 degrees to the dock. I failed to get a good approach when coming in cross wind. I finially went down wind, turned around and headed directly into the wind as close to shore as I could. Once I reached the dock I did a sharp 90 turn... that worked!! But I still never feel comfortable coming into a marina!!

[Boblee]

Ballast in helps but like I mentioned earlier the power thruster gives much more feel to the boat and with that, more confidence that it's actually going to go where you want it "now", instead of the sloppy delay, never tried it in reverse but apparently it makes even more difference there.
I also noticed that even coasting in neutral the extra metal of the thruster gives a rudder feel, I had ballast but never used any boards when testing the thruster (shallow) and it was probably the easiest and most confident I have felt loading mind you there was only a light cross wind.

[NiceAft]

ksatterlee,

By now you may be scratching your head, and wondering what did I start here. Rudders up Rudders down Daggerboard all the way down, or not Ballast in, well that at least seems to be a given

I believe that what you may find to be the best for you (but not a guarantee) is:
(A) Daggerboard down as far as the water depth will allow. This will make the boat much more manageable.

(B) Rudders down. Some say one, one said none, but I like two. I feel there is just that much more control.

(C) If possible, dock on your leeward side.

(D) Ballast full. I believe there is full consensus on this one

(E) This one was not mentioned. When entering a slip, back in You will have far more control over the boat. Also, when you back in, position yourself between the pedestal and the hatchway, and face the direction you are heading. You will then be steering the boat in a much more natural position. I was told this years ago (on this forum), and I have been using it since. In the marina where we slip Nice Aft, I back down the entire length of the dock (19 slips) to get to our slip (#38).


Ray

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

We've done a lot of docking with our X over the last 10 years, and I don't feel that ballast really makes any significant difference. It doesn't reduce the tendency of the bow to blow down wind at all, and in most cases I'd rather have a light boat that I can stop quicker. As far as I am concerned ballast is for sailing and little else. I much prefer to operate the boat under power without it.

If you are into using lots of thrust to shove the boat around then perhaps you will be happy with rudders up, but when coasting the motor does not have enough surface area to steer with. You are far better with at least one rudder down, that's our normal docking config for standard conditions. (That's also our standard motoring config under 7 knots. That way if I break something on a rudder I still have a spare.) The rudders and centerboard also make very little difference in slowing the boats getting pushed around by the wind when at a standstill. They do however make a great improvement in the boats tracking and steering. Having the board down will greatly reduce your turning radius, with or without rudders.

I prefer to establish an approach at a good clip, but put the motor in neutral and coast up to the dock. This gives good handling on approach and has you ready to hit the brakes when the time comes. Our standard approach is at a 35 - 45 angle to the dock with good speed established and coasting in. At the right moment (which you just have to practice to learn and varies depending on the speed you actually end up with), you make a hard turn to bring the boat parallel to the dock and hit the brakes if needed. Done right you are at a dead stop right next to the dock and can just step out of the cockpit onto the dock.

If I am up wind, I'll always turn parallel farther away from the dock (a boat width) and let the boat just drift over against it. Do however be aware that when drifting down wind the bow will always drift faster than the stern. Allow for this in choosing the position you come to a stop in. Don't be afraid to dock on the windward side, the approach is much easier and you can always use a spring line off the bow when departing to get the stern out so you can back cleanly away. Find an empty dock and try it, you will be amazed at how easy it is to do.

Down wind of a dock in a blow, I prefer not to entertain the people on the dock by trying to time an approach that get's me close enough to hop off in the few seconds you have before the boat drifts away. Instead, I'll approach at a 90 degree angle to the dock into the wind and get our long spring line on a cleat. I don't care if I have to nose the bow right up to the dock in a tee config, the point is to get a line attached. I do this to what will be the stern cleat when finally tied up. Then I can fall back and cleat the line on my bow with about 20'-25' of length between the boat and the dock. I then turn and power against this line that is running from my bow, to the future stern dock cleat and back to the bow. Once the line goes tight it doesn't mater how strong the wind is, the boat has no choice but to snug right up to the dock. There is no rush or panic, just use a medium level of power and the boat will bring itself along side the dock every time. Leave the motor in gear at idle and the boat will hold itself against the dock while you calmly climb out and secure the dock lines. All those on the dock who were expecting you to provide as much entertainment as they previously did will be disappointed there was no show, but they will be impressed with your boat handling skills and often will ask how you did it. The key again is practice in easy conditions before you have to use it in hard conditions. This also works for current. We've used it with a 4+ knot current flowing through a cove under the dock with great results.

Of course on the down wind side of the dock, departing is a cinch. Just release the lines and wait until you have drifted clear. In preparation for this reconfigure your lines so the go from your boat cleat, around the dock cleat and back to your boat cleat. This way you can be calmly on board and slip the lines from the dock without any assistance.

I also suggest you have others you regularly have on board practice docking too (as well as MOB drills). When you find your self at a dock that is wide open, double the fenders and send the admiral out with the boat for some practice. It may be hard to turn over the helm of your baby, but you should do it. If they have never done it before, dock once with them at the helm giving them calm simple instructions and making no judgments of the results, then get off the boat and wait on the dock while they make 4-5 more tries on their own. At least you can be an extra human bumper as the get a feel for approaching and leaving the dock.

[trip01]

Duane,

Tks for these 2...

when drifting down wind the bow will always drift faster than the stern

when departing ... get the stern out so you can back cleanly away

Key is - to work with the wind.

Kind Rgds
Dave
26

[Québec 1]

Duane,



Key is - to work with the wind.

Kind Rgds
Dave
26

and the current and the tides

[NiceAft]

Well so much for the consensus for the ballast full

I still think Duane is wrong, but that's the three S.W. rule. Some Will. Some Won't. So What You will experiment for yourself, and find what pleases you.

Ray

[Boblee]

Well there could be conditions when the ballast being empty is better? but if there is any wind it will definitely not be, for a start the boat is lower in the water and secondly it is heavier with ballast in, maybe for a cross tide or current it could be better but with both applying with rough water I would rather have it full there is no doubt.

Even a bit of rough water at low speeds with no ballast is uncomfortable and trying to manuever with wind and current makes it much worse just motoring up a river under the above I will fill the ballast let alone trying to dock or load the boat.

The loading I mentioned in an earlier post with 25-30knot plus winds the boat was laying (10-20 deg?) over with ballast and would not have even contemplated it without, the effects are less in lesser conditions but still there.

As for

but when coasting the motor does not have enough surface area to steer with.

my comment on this was only with the extra meat of the thruster (22"x6" ?) coupled with the motor which made a noticeable difference otherwise I agree.

Of course under optimum conditions when you can use boards they are definitely the way to go but there are very few docks or landings where I am confident there are no weeds or obstructions where we travel but then there's very few docks either .

Actually we will have a floating dock beside the ramp at one of the launching spots this year but the others will be all boards up and one will be one attempt only or crash into rocks and logs etc so it is good to practice all ways at your convenience not when the conditions dictate.

[Hardcrab]

All else being equal, I'll always prefer the downwind side of any dock, anytime.
I'd much rather have the boat blowing away from the dock and held fast by the lines, than have the boat blown into the fenders/dock and squeaking away all night long.
It might save the gel coat too.

We do the bow to stern line trick, as learned here, along with with a dedicated short stern line with a big eye splice for the dock cleat as the first line quickly made fast.
Once the stern is "yours", the rest will be easier.

(We only see the floating type docks due to the tidal range).

The real docking fun starts at about 10 knots crosswind, that's fer sure.
I'm of the "come in steep, forward, and fast coupled with multiple lock to lock helm inputs coupled with a full reverse finish" crowd.

What ever your method, you gotta be quick, because the bow blows off quickly while the stern stays pretty close, and that's the saving grace.

Get someone standing on the dock who won't laugh to hard to fend you off from disaster, and then practice a lot.

Or dink around in some smaller boats and learn boating basics that way.

[ksatterlee]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Had the boat out yesterday and did well docking it at a few different locations with some wind. Made good use of my boat hook to grab the dock cleat, and kept all fins down, ballast full. Just ordered the landing loop (www.landingloop.com). It looks like it may be helpful. Anyone have any experience with it?

[sbods]

For me it is boards down all the way - everytime!

In strong winds and tides, leave it as late as you can before making a solid and robust turn onto your mooring.
Use whatever advantage you can (blown on or off - on, turn slightly early - off, just a tad later)

Personally whilst I agree with "approach as fast as you would want to hit the dock", some extra speed will assist the handling and a couple of seconds of reverse soon kills it when required (just make sure you are famililar with your particular prop walk - mine kicks to port!)

I am lucky in most part as I tend to be returning to my home pontoon so I have my lines pre-set on the dock waiting for me. A simple lean over the side with / without a boat hook as necessary and I put a slip up from the stern through the midship railings onto a winch and use it as a spring.

If the weather is really bad, leave the engine in drive on tickover.... walkforward, step off and secure the bow lines and springs.
Stern line on, back on board, engine to neutral - hey presto.

Other tips;
1. Communicate with your crew before you approach the dock so that everyone knows your plan! (particulalry with an inexperienced crew...in which case I always go through the docking process before) even leaving the pontoon!!)
2. Have a fall back plan... what will you do if????
3. Somedays it may be safer to moor on another pontoon or even wait for conditions to improve
4. If single handing, do not be afraid to ask someone already docked to take your line... they would prefer that to you hitting them!

My best advice
Practice, Practice, Practice
It does your confidence the world of good having the knowledge that you are comfortable with your own skill level!

Steve

[captronr]

My first launch with the , I'd forgotten to unbolt the rudders, so they were locked UP. And my centerboard was stuck UP. No ballast yet. It was like a fat pig on ice--that boat was all over the place! I managed to tie the boat off, and removed the safety pins to lower the rudders. It took a lot of wave pounding and sitting in the slip overnite before the centerboard freed itself. It's rudders down, CB down for me, going or coming to the slip.

Ron

[rwmiller56]

My is slipped on SF Bay, where we regularly have 20 - 30 kt winds. This makes docking challenging. I have found that full ballast, rudders down, and daggerboard down 2 - 2.5 ft, gives me the best control. I will nose her into a slip only if the wind is abeam or abaft. When heading into the wind, then I will back her in. This avoids the bow falling off the wind, which can be difficult to recover from.

My first season at the marina, I picked out a nice little 26 ft slip, at a good price. The only problem is that there is a mud bar not far from the entrance to that slip, that sits about at the 0 ft tide mark. Of course, no one told me about this. On my first docking experience, I came in with the board halfway down, and the rudders down, and at low tide. There was probably about 2 feet depth at that mud bar. I ran aground, and promptly raised the board and the rudders. Then, the wind pushed me around in circles. I was in a tight spot, because there was a lee shore not far away. The outboard was little help. I ended up hitting the anchor on the bow of a 50 ft sailboat, and damaging the fiberglass on the forward portion of my boat's cabin. I drifted into deeper water, got the board down, and motored to the guest dock to wait for the tide to rise.

I learned alot from that experience. Now, I not only have all fins down when docking, but I also check the tides, and get local knowledge when away from my home port. Now, I feel fairly confident when docking, and backing in really helps.

For the rest of that first season, I had to time my departures/arrivals for when the tide was 4 feet or higher, and I never had any problem getting over the mud bar. This season, I ponied up for a better 30 ft slip near the front of the marina! And the fiberglass damage has been repaired and looks like new..

Roger

[ALX357]

The most effective technique for docking or manouvering in tight areas it to go in REVERSE, as was suggested at the start of the thread. Center / dagger board down, as much as you can afford for the depth of the area, and at least one rudder down. Stand in front of the pedestal, facing backwards. The steering is natural that way. You can positively see the rudder position, and have a great view of where you are going, as opposed to looking over the high bow twenty feet away, and the steering effect is immediate, because you are sitting right between the two points of control. Keep under steady slow way, do not stop or you will drift without control. If you are coming too close to a dock or other vessel, at least you are right there with a paddle, or boat-hook to fend off. You are also in a better position to jump onto the dock from the cockpit.

I would enter the harbor normally, then at a place where you can do a comfortable three-point turn, head in a bit, stop and immediately go into reverse, then back on your track the rest of the way to your dock or slip.

Of course it doesn't work to go in reverse if you are getting onto your trailer. I came up with the PVC "corral" and side boards mod for the trailer, to deal with cross winds and currents while putting the boat onto the trailer.

[Doug W]

Still, if everything goes
well there are only a few seconds to snag something before you have to give up
and go around again.

LOL, I've already danced that particular rodeo a number of times... Kind of embarrassing for a seasoned boater.

This is such a different beast to dock than my previous boats. I figure I will just continue to practice as much as possible in varied conditions with varied fin positions until I eventually become competent... When i have to circle around 3 times due to failed approaches, that's more practice! I don't feel so embarrassed since my boat tends to dwarf most other boats at ramps. But it sure helps when there is a good samaritan on the dock to catch a line and loop it on a cleat!

So far, loading onto the trailer has been painless and not much different than my speedboat; however, I'm stealing the a couple of the keel rollers off my old trailer to improve my loading ability at different trailer angles.