2001 Mac 26x Bimini top interferes with Boom and Main sheet.

[rickbartholomew]

My wife and I recently bought a used 2001 Mac 26x, and have had a blast sailing her, but we've run into one as yet unresolved problem...Our boat came with a third party Bimini top, which we have been unable to correctly set up if the Boom set up. While at anchor, and with the boom in the crutch, the Bimini wants to go OVER the boom, we can not fasten either forward straps. If I raise the boom with a topping lift, the bimini contacts the main sheet, and again we can not (safely) connect both forward straps. At the same time, the rear of the Bimini is pressing against the aft stay. I've tried moving the lower mounts back and forth in their tracks, and reversing the whole assembly, with no really useful change. I beginning to seriously think that this bimini was not designed for a Mac 26x (i.e. support ribs are too short/long, the top is two long (fore-aft), etc. Also, every other part of our boat had reasonable levels of ware. yet the bimini was PRISTINE, almost like it was never used.


Are there some generic dimensions (Canvas and Rib dimensions) available for a reasonably sized bimini for a Max26x, I'm considering SHORTENING the main rip (to get it UNDER the boom), but that may cause greater interference with the main sheet.

[Catigale]

The solution is...put another boom bail (D-ring) on the boom forward of your current one, so that the main sheet clears the bimini forward lip. You do increase the main sheet load doing this, but if its windy enough to worry about this, I doubt you will have the bimini up anyhoo....

With this boom bail, I can actually sail with my full enclosure up - Ive never done this though. I did motor up Vineyard sound in a heavy rainstorm once, staying nice and dry, though

[rickbartholomew]

Catigale,
That's one of the ideas I had, but it seems to imply that my bimini is not really designed for this boat...? How far forward did you move your boom bail?...6" or so looks to be just enough.

[Catigale]

It was more than that - I want to say a couple feet. I might have a picture somewhere....

[Hamin' X]

Try clipping the mainsheet to a stantion base.

~Rich

[rickbartholomew]

Rich,
I think I tried that with still not enough clearance... I'll have to double check to see this Sunday.
Thanks,
Rick

[DaveB]

When I bought my used Mac.X I had same problem, I cut off about 4 inches of the bimini frame both sides and reattached the Eye fitting. It may take a couple of cuts so you can sail with Bimini up without boom hitting it.
Also ck your Mast Rake, if it is raked to far aft (rake should be about 2 degrees aft) than the boom will hit the Bimini.
So first ck your rake than cut off the tubeing legs each side equal until it clears the the boom by 2 inches because when you are beating and want to sheet the main tight this will also bring down the boom and may hit Bimini.
Also if you have a older Sail the Leech may have streached causeing the boom to drop lower.
Dave

My wife and I recently bought a used 2001 Mac 26x, and have had a blast sailing her, but we've run into one as yet unresolved problem...Our boat came with a third party Bimini top, which we have been unable to correctly set up if the Boom set up. While at anchor, and with the boom in the crutch, the Bimini wants to go OVER the boom, we can not fasten either forward straps. If I raise the boom with a topping lift, the bimini contacts the main sheet, and again we can not (safely) connect both forward straps. At the same time, the rear of the Bimini is pressing against the aft stay. I've tried moving the lower mounts back and forth in their tracks, and reversing the whole assembly, with no really useful change. I beginning to seriously think that this bimini was not designed for a Mac 26x (i.e. support ribs are too short/long, the top is two long (fore-aft), etc. Also, every other part of our boat had reasonable levels of ware. yet the bimini was PRISTINE, almost like it was never used.


Are there some generic dimensions (Canvas and Rib dimensions) available for a reasonably sized bimini for a Max26x, I'm considering SHORTENING the main rip (to get it UNDER the boom), but that may cause greater interference with the main sheet.

[nedmiller]

Catigale,
I recently saw a picture of your full enclosure. Not to high-jack the thread, where did you get it and is it still available?
SILK

[Catigale]

...I bought it from Art Reiders at the original Havencraft with the boat. It was made locally in Sudbury MA, but I never found the source

Art passed away in 2003, unfortunately, so I havent been able to find the source with a ouiji board..

The enclosure has been HUge for us, expanding our week crew capabilities to 8 up.

[ronacarme]

Our 2001 X has the stock bimini and ite boom has 2 mounting hole pairs for the mainsheet bail. We shifted the bail to the forward hole pair when we installed the bimini in spring 2001. The main sheet closely clears the forward edge of the bimini. All remains well. Ron

[Sloop John B]

The stock option bimini is low enough for the boom under all conditions. The instructions for installing have to be ignored as to just where the mounting brackets are placed. Otherwise the thing will chafe against the backstay when it's layed back. So, get your brackets more forward. After the bimini is placed and up, then check where to put the main sheet bail which will be bolted into the boom. Forward enough so there's no chafing as the boom swings back and forth close hauled.

Your description indicates your bimini simply doesn't fit, it's too high. Try to sell it or pass it off to a boater who has room for it. If you can engineer shortening the braces, good luck. If I tried that I'd really screw it up.

[rickbartholomew]

Thanks to everyone for their input... I'll be checking my mast rake, adjusting my mounting brackets (in the already installed tracks), and possibly shorting the main rib...

My sail is original, so my leach may have stretched, resulting in a lower boom... Not much to be done there this year.

Rick

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

A second boom bail about 2' forward is required with the stock bimini. The stock bimini stays below the boom. If your's is taller it is not stock and most likely was a third party one, many are available. In that case I would simply figure out how far forward the main sheet has to go to clear it, drill a hole and install a second boom bail. Of course you won't be sailing with an above the boom bimini extended.

I am a big fan of the taller bimini's that allow you to stand up fully at the helm. That's why I refused to buy the stock bimini, the BWY bimini/enclosure, or the Havencraft bimin/enclosure. All were under boom height and only give about 5'6" headroom at the helm.

I went with the Dowsar bimini/enclosure. It has a tall bimini that stops just behind the boom allowing 6'2" headroom at the helm. It also mounts further aft and has an opening that allow the backstay to pass through the bimini. It uses a spreader bar that eliminates the need for any straps to keep it tight. You might take a look at these pictures at my website and see if you get any ideas you can use in adapting your aftermarket bimini.

http://www.ddunn.org/ModsEnclosure.htm

[Wind Chime]

We had a full enclosure custom made for our 2000X.

We made the Bimini the same height as our BWY wide Dodger (this makes for lower headroom in the cockpit compared to ones that Dowser makes and that Duane Dunn has, but it works for us) and the Bimini is short enough (in length) that we can still have the mainsheet attached to the pedestal to sail without moving the Boom D-Ring.

A big thing that helps with this set-up is the Boom-Kicker. It holds the boom up without a topping lift so the boom never rubs on the top of the Dodger or Bimini. It is set so that our Boom is parallel with the deck and still gets good sailshape.

When motoring in inclement weather:
- we put the complete full enclosure up, and unclip the mainsheet block and tackle from the pedestal and clip it to either side station base, or unclip the mainsheet block and tackle from the boom and clip the end of the boom to the backstay-pigtail. (to hold the boom amidships)

When sailing in inclement weather:
- we remove the connector piece between the Bimini and Dodger and the two front side sections of the full-enclosure, so all three sheets can run freely. We end up with the back two thirds of the cockpit undercover (the Bimini and back three sides of the enclosure)

[DaveB]

Duane,
You have a very small Bimini and if you lowered the boom for sailing you would need to take off canvas forward of Bimini.(your boom is not 90 degrees with mast pic.)
I myself like to have a full Bimini for sun protection and the way mine is , the top is 3 inches away from backstay and 1 inche away from main sheet at hauled in. The boom clears the Bimini by 1 inch when main is sheeted in as tight as needed.I often use the Bimini Frame as a boom support when lowering or raiseing the Main.
I don't have standing headroom for my 6 ft. height but very close so have to bend down 3-4 inches.
I know I need a new Main and Leech has streached and tried to order for a new 2000 and told them let me know when you have them in stock, that was over 2 mo. ago.
Dave

A second boom bail about 2' forward is required with the stock bimini. The stock bimini stays below the boom. If your's is taller it is not stock and most likely was a third party one, many are available. In that case I would simply figure out how far forward the main sheet has to go to clear it, drill a hole and install a second boom bail. Of course you won't be sailing with an above the boom bimini extended.

I am a big fan of the taller bimini's that allow you to stand up fully at the helm. That's why I refused to buy the stock bimini, the BWY bimini/enclosure, or the Havencraft bimin/enclosure. All were under boom height and only give about 5'6" headroom at the helm.

I went with the Dowsar bimini/enclosure. It has a tall bimini that stops just behind the boom allowing 6'2" headroom at the helm. It also mounts further aft and has an opening that allow the backstay to pass through the bimini. It uses a spreader bar that eliminates the need for any straps to keep it tight. You might take a look at these pictures at my website and see if you get any ideas you can use in adapting your aftermarket bimini.

http://www.ddunn.org/ModsEnclosure.htm