DOWN AT THE BOAT YESTERDAY DRINKING A COUPLE COLD ONES AND CHECKED THE STERN BUNKS AND FOUND WHAT COULD ONLY BE CONDENSATION ON THE BOTTOMS OF THE CUSHIONS.
HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM? WHERE IS A GOOD PLACE TO ADD VENTS SO THE LINER IS THE SAME TEMPATURE AS THE INSIDE OF THE BOAT? THERE ARE NO LEAKS FROM THE OUTSIDE AND NO WATER IN THE BILGE ANYWHERE.
From Heath: Please don't type messages and subjects in all caps. It's considered 'yelling' and it's hard on the eyes.
I have my vent mounted in the middle of the front hatch. Does the jou just fine. If you cover the boat with tarps be sure that sunlight can get to the solar pannel or the vent will stop working.
Tony D. Did you mount your solar fan in the middle of the sliding hatch? Thats where I thought about mounting mine. I'm afraid to cut thru the boat. How is it working out for you? Will it run with sunlight shining thru the tarp? Jim Nolan
Jim,
Two days ago, I cut a 2 3/4" hole in the top of my boat for a shore power hook-up. I have a 26M and put the shore power plug a few inches to starboard of the mast light plug in. In the 2004 26M that is right above the galley and there is a 8-4 inch dead space there filled with flotation foam.
Before I drilled, I must have measured 101 times! It worked out great, and I will post some photos when I get a chance.
I went with putting the vent port side to the mast - like Moe'sposted modification.
I was pulling wires for new mast wiring (Windvane light, Anchor light, and Front Deck flood light) so I had all the plugs pulled below.
Took a deep breath, measured twice, and went up top to cut the 3 3/4 inch hole for the vent.
The jig saw caught in two places, and I lifted the piece up I had cut through the reinforcing fiberglass member below deck. I wasnt too happy about this at first, but then of course I realised at the worst case I could rebuild this and cover up the hole pretty well..
The deck sure isnt any softer after cutting this member (I weigh about 220#) so unless there is some tension on the deck from mast forces I dont see a problem here. The vent comes with a nice mount plate that I will bond to the deck as well as using 6 SS fasteners, so that will restore some strength to the hole.
ANyway - if you are interested in this mod be aware that you will be cutting a FG member and decide if you are happy with this.
Had a good day otherwise...
* Wired GPS to DSC VHF radio
* Wired all new wires from switches to mast step for the above mast accessories - when you pull these wires with fish tape wrap at least a foot of your wire onto the tape with electrical tape - there are a number of places it gets caught..
* New 12 VDC outlet and GPS connect at helm
* Ran RX8 and 5 conductor 12 VDC up mast for Offshore antenna and new stuff above - I put a cable tie every 2 feet to keep the chafe down inside the mast. My 7 year old Caitlin pulled the wire and stopped every 2 feet like a champ - imagine how much up and down the ladder it would have been without her....
* Swapped the 2 pole deck plug for a 4 pole one
* Put in a through deck fitting for the VHF.
* Put in an antenna switch to go from sailing mode antenna on mast to motor mode with rail antenna
***Dont key your VHF mike without an antenna load as you can blow the front end out *****
Best part of working below decks is a 1500 Watt heater plugged in via shore power connected to garage brings below decks to 65 F in about 10 minutes - it was 30 F outside, but I was snug!!
I would still suspect a water leak. one common spot is water running down the helm cable to drip between the aft cushions and then the top of the cushion dries, but the bottom stays wet and gets mildewed.
If the mast is up try covering the helm console with some type of cover as a test.
"Make it so."
Gary,
How far up are you on the Chesapeake? I'm in Prince George, Va and store my boat on the trailer next to the house. I have installed a solar vent in the head compartment thru the deck and a vent I added on the bottom of the head door. This year I have added a Davis passive heater to try and control the condensation. I've used the granular dehumidifiers in plastic containers in the past. I have not noticed any problem with condensation under the cushions. If I had not already purchased the Davis heater, I would opt for the WM model that has an internal fan.
For years I used the crystal things in the baskets and they did OK but it is a pain to go in and empty the collected water. You have to do it at least every month or so.
It uses very little power and works great. It has a small 100w heater and fan. I flip open all the lids to the compartments. It keeps everything nice and dry and provides enough heat to keep things from freezing up here in the Pacific Northwest.
Gary - on our 2002 I found water in the back berth that was coming from under the pedestal. There are two holes in the cockpit floor, under the pedestal, for the steering cable and for electronics. One of these was nicely 'dammed' so that water would not go down the hole, and the other one wasnt - so the rear got wet.
Covering the pedestal on an wont help this problem as the water lands in the cockpit, runs down under the pedestal, and then down the 'undammed' hole into your bed.
Solution is to build a like dam from PVC pipe or whatever of course.
Any cockpit leak will be caught by the headliner over the aft bunk. Doesn't matter whether from pedestal, fuel lockers, or whatever. Then it runs on top of the headliner back to where it dips down by the motor well. If you remove the fabric-covered false stern board you can see the headliner stops while still over the bunk. This is where the water will drip down onto the bunk. You can either fix the leak, if you can find it, or you can make a drip pan under the headliner to divert the water into the bilge instead of onto the bunk. You may need to leave the false stern board off - but who cares?
I had had a little condensation under the cushions, no it isn't a leak unless there is a lot of water, I have had my boat mostly in the drink since 1996- I only trailer it once a year for repairs...I have lived on it, love on it...wait too much information.......regardless, yep even with ventilation and dehumidifiers, I have had a little condensation under the pads(Spring and Fall, as I live in the desert). OK, I was unpacking a TV box and couldn't throw away those little styro blocks...I placed them under the cushions in th aft berth....when I am laying on it don't notice...when not on the bunk, the cushions are elevated enough for the air to get under........simple, cheap and I'll be danged if it didn't work.........try that and a simple fan for a cheap fix...
Home Depot sells air conditioner filter material one-inch-thick by about 24 inches wide in 25-foot rolls. Cut to fit and put under your cushions for breathable space.
I've considered both Dri-Deck and Astro Turf for under our Airstream mattress, which sits on top of an unheated outside storage compartment. Same problem.
What I'm looking for is something very much like air-conditioning filter material but stiffer. It's a packing material with fibers about like boar's hair, and I've seen it in 1-2" thicknesses. Can't seem to find it now.
jim nolan wrote:Tony D. Did you mount your solar fan in the middle of the sliding hatch? Thats where I thought about mounting mine. I'm afraid to cut thru the boat. How is it working out for you? Will it run with sunlight shining thru the tarp? Jim Nolan
Jim,
No. It is mounted in the center of the forward Hatch over the v-birth. It has ben working well there over the last 3 seasons.
