I would be grateful for any feedback as to the ideal propellor diameter & pitch I should seek. I gather that there have been a variety of options in use and I am wondering as to which combination is best suited to a MacM
Ideal Prop Diameter & Pitch for Honda 50HP ?
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Mac
Ideal Prop Diameter & Pitch for Honda 50HP ?
I recently placed an order for a MacM. Currently, I am ordering a Honda 50HP to go with it. I am told that it needs to be a 'long shaft' outboard.
I would be grateful for any feedback as to the ideal propellor diameter & pitch I should seek. I gather that there have been a variety of options in use and I am wondering as to which combination is best suited to a MacM
I would be grateful for any feedback as to the ideal propellor diameter & pitch I should seek. I gather that there have been a variety of options in use and I am wondering as to which combination is best suited to a MacM
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richandlori
- Admiral
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 8:08 pm
- Location: Living Aboard in Morro Bay, CA
- Contact:
Congradulations on placing the order for your New Mac. I hope you were able to get the old pricing and didn't have to pay the $1000 extra that Mac added as of Jan 10th. ($18,900 increase to $19,900)
As of June 04, Honda had three types of 50Hp outboards: BF50ALHT, BF50ALRT, and BF50AXRT. I have the BF50ALRT, which is the long shaft version and it fits the M great. The Honda Code is this: Big Foot-50HP. L for long shaft X for extra long shaft, H=long hand tiller R=Remote and T=Power Trim/tilt.
As far as prop size, I don't have a clue as what it is, but the number stamped onto the prop is: C4 X 11.4 X 10. I assume your Honda dealer might know what that means and someone on this board might as well.
If you go with a Honda, you will be happy. The truth is you will be happy with any brand of motor, they are all good quality these days if you stick to a name brand. My only regreat about my motor is that I would have liked to have some additional HP! But I can still pull my kids on a waterski or tube with my fully loaded boat.
Rich
As of June 04, Honda had three types of 50Hp outboards: BF50ALHT, BF50ALRT, and BF50AXRT. I have the BF50ALRT, which is the long shaft version and it fits the M great. The Honda Code is this: Big Foot-50HP. L for long shaft X for extra long shaft, H=long hand tiller R=Remote and T=Power Trim/tilt.
As far as prop size, I don't have a clue as what it is, but the number stamped onto the prop is: C4 X 11.4 X 10. I assume your Honda dealer might know what that means and someone on this board might as well.
If you go with a Honda, you will be happy. The truth is you will be happy with any brand of motor, they are all good quality these days if you stick to a name brand. My only regreat about my motor is that I would have liked to have some additional HP! But I can still pull my kids on a waterski or tube with my fully loaded boat.
Rich
I have a 99 Honda that came with an 11 x 13 propeller. If they haven't changed the basic motor, you will want a 12 1/4 x 10 prop. The first number is the diameter and is the largest diameter propeller that fits my 99 Honda. The second number is the pitch. The 13 pitch is too big for the Mac. It takes too big of a bite in the water and won't allow the engine to get anywhere near redline (only about 4600 rpm). With the 10 pitch I get between 5800 and 5900 rpm. Michigan Wheel makes these and can be ordered through WM.
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Norm
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:26 pm
- Location: Fiddletown, Ca. 2002X "FriendShip" Johnson 50hp 4-stroke
You want the prop size that will give you ideal RPM's at WOT. For a Johnson/Suzuki/Evinrude 50hp 4 stroke that would be 6000-6400 RPM's. Honda is probably the same. We get an ideal 6200 RPM's with an 11.75"x10 pitch prop, empty ballast. We generaly have just 2 people (290lbs total) and supplies for overnight (another 100-200lbs) on board. With full ballast the RPM's drop down to around 5800 so a lower pitch would be better. But thats an additional 1500 lbs. Some folks choose the higher pitch for better low speed manuvering and backing in tight spaces etc. Or lower pitch for an extra mph or so at the high end, but the 10 pitch is the best all around IMHO.
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Richard Lisch
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 8:50 am
- Location: Puerto Rico
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Norm
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:26 pm
- Location: Fiddletown, Ca. 2002X "FriendShip" Johnson 50hp 4-stroke
You want the largest recomended diameter prop for your engine. For my Johnson, it's 11 3/4". I see Kcarrier's 99 Honda it's 12 1/4". Then you start expierimenting with pitch. All Macs with 50hp 4-strokes that I've heard of have anywhere from 8-12 pitch props. The "M" boat is a little heavier than the "X" and we usualy pack pretty light. Heavier boat, lower pitch. Try a 9 pitch.
came with a Mercury 50 HP Bigfoot and a-
Terry
- Admiral
- Posts: 1487
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 2:35 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Vancouver, B.C. Canada. '03 26M - New Yamaha 70
Prop size
There was another thread on this under performance & Tunning a while back that had some good suggestions but it seems to have disappeared.
I did some research on props and this is what I discovered.
I started out with what the dealer put on which was 3x10.75x11. I had it pitched up to 3x10.75x13 because it revved too high. That worked for awhile but I had too much slippage so I looked for another alternative as a second propeller.
Most other 26X owners in our club use a 3x12x10.25 on their Honda which works well, a good combination. Honda tends to use Solas as their OEM in this part of the woods.
For my second propeller I bought a Solas Alcup 4x11.4x10, the 10 pitch kept my rpms to 5600-5700 so I had it pitched down to 4x11.4x9 now I get over 6000 rpm, that one inch gave me close to 500 rpm increase but the prop shop told me that the original pitch was really 10.5 even though it was stamped 10. If I could go back and do it again I would most definitely get the Solas Alcup but would increase the diameter so that I could get the next size they offer which is 4x11.8x9 a perfect fit for the Honda 50 combined with the 26M.
Sinse you need two props anyway (always carry a spare) you may wish to have one with 3 blades and one with 4 blades, 4 blades is awsome.
[/url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propeller ... ts.htm[url]
"Using a four-blade prop instead of a three-blade prop has several advantages. Your boat will accelerate and come up on plane faster, and stay on plane at lower rpm's. You experience less vibration with a four-blade prop. You will also have an increase in speed at mid-range rpm's, but there will probably be slightly less speed at Wide Open Throttle."
Your best bet is to get the largest diameter available first then decide pitch and one last note, the radius on the Honda is 6.25 inches to the anti-cavitation plate, a 12.25 diameter is cutting it too close as you do need a little clearance, 12 inches max. This is only what I learned from searching around and experimenting, I am no expert on the subject, but I did get good results and you won't be disappointed if you purchase the Solas Alcup 4x11.8x9.
[url]http://www.solas.com/products/propeller ... er.htm[url]
I have no idea why the url's don't work, I did it right but the site won't cooperate.
I did some research on props and this is what I discovered.
I started out with what the dealer put on which was 3x10.75x11. I had it pitched up to 3x10.75x13 because it revved too high. That worked for awhile but I had too much slippage so I looked for another alternative as a second propeller.
Most other 26X owners in our club use a 3x12x10.25 on their Honda which works well, a good combination. Honda tends to use Solas as their OEM in this part of the woods.
For my second propeller I bought a Solas Alcup 4x11.4x10, the 10 pitch kept my rpms to 5600-5700 so I had it pitched down to 4x11.4x9 now I get over 6000 rpm, that one inch gave me close to 500 rpm increase but the prop shop told me that the original pitch was really 10.5 even though it was stamped 10. If I could go back and do it again I would most definitely get the Solas Alcup but would increase the diameter so that I could get the next size they offer which is 4x11.8x9 a perfect fit for the Honda 50 combined with the 26M.
Sinse you need two props anyway (always carry a spare) you may wish to have one with 3 blades and one with 4 blades, 4 blades is awsome.
[/url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propeller ... ts.htm[url]
"Using a four-blade prop instead of a three-blade prop has several advantages. Your boat will accelerate and come up on plane faster, and stay on plane at lower rpm's. You experience less vibration with a four-blade prop. You will also have an increase in speed at mid-range rpm's, but there will probably be slightly less speed at Wide Open Throttle."
Your best bet is to get the largest diameter available first then decide pitch and one last note, the radius on the Honda is 6.25 inches to the anti-cavitation plate, a 12.25 diameter is cutting it too close as you do need a little clearance, 12 inches max. This is only what I learned from searching around and experimenting, I am no expert on the subject, but I did get good results and you won't be disappointed if you purchase the Solas Alcup 4x11.8x9.
[url]http://www.solas.com/products/propeller ... er.htm[url]
I have no idea why the url's don't work, I did it right but the site won't cooperate.
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Terry
- Admiral
- Posts: 1487
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 2:35 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Vancouver, B.C. Canada. '03 26M - New Yamaha 70
Prop size
There was another thread on this under performance & Tunning a while back that had some good suggestions but it seems to have disappeared.
I did some research on props and this is what I discovered.
I started out with what the dealer put on which was 3x10.75x11. I had it pitched up to 3x10.75x13 because it revved too high. That worked for awhile but I had too much slippage so I looked for another alternative as a second propeller.
Most other 26X owners in our club use a 3x12x10.25 on their Honda which works well, a good combination. Honda tends to use Solas as their OEM in this part of the woods.
For my second propeller I bought a Solas Alcup 4x11.4x10, the 10 pitch kept my rpms to 5600-5700 so I had it pitched down to 4x11.4x9 now I get over 6000 rpm, that one inch gave me close to 500 rpm increase but the prop shop told me that the original pitch was really 10.5 even though it was stamped 10. If I could go back and do it again I would most definitely get the Solas Alcup but would increase the diameter so that I could get the next size they offer which is 4x11.8x9 a perfect fit for the Honda 50 combined with the 26M.
Sinse you need two props anyway (always carry a spare) you may wish to have one with 3 blades and one with 4 blades, 4 blades is awsome.
[/url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propeller ... ts.htm[url]
"Using a four-blade prop instead of a three-blade prop has several advantages. Your boat will accelerate and come up on plane faster, and stay on plane at lower rpm's. You experience less vibration with a four-blade prop. You will also have an increase in speed at mid-range rpm's, but there will probably be slightly less speed at Wide Open Throttle."
Your best bet is to get the largest diameter available first then decide pitch and one last note, the radius on the Honda is 6.25 inches to the anti-cavitation plate, a 12.25 diameter is cutting it too close as you do need a little clearance, 12 inches max. This is only what I learned from searching around and experimenting, I am no expert on the subject, but I did get good results and you won't be disappointed if you purchase the Solas Alcup 4x11.8x9.
[url]http://www.solas.com/products/propeller ... er.htm[url]
I have no idea why the url's don't work, I did it right but the site won't cooperate.
I did some research on props and this is what I discovered.
I started out with what the dealer put on which was 3x10.75x11. I had it pitched up to 3x10.75x13 because it revved too high. That worked for awhile but I had too much slippage so I looked for another alternative as a second propeller.
Most other 26X owners in our club use a 3x12x10.25 on their Honda which works well, a good combination. Honda tends to use Solas as their OEM in this part of the woods.
For my second propeller I bought a Solas Alcup 4x11.4x10, the 10 pitch kept my rpms to 5600-5700 so I had it pitched down to 4x11.4x9 now I get over 6000 rpm, that one inch gave me close to 500 rpm increase but the prop shop told me that the original pitch was really 10.5 even though it was stamped 10. If I could go back and do it again I would most definitely get the Solas Alcup but would increase the diameter so that I could get the next size they offer which is 4x11.8x9 a perfect fit for the Honda 50 combined with the 26M.
Sinse you need two props anyway (always carry a spare) you may wish to have one with 3 blades and one with 4 blades, 4 blades is awsome.
[/url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propeller ... ts.htm[url]
"Using a four-blade prop instead of a three-blade prop has several advantages. Your boat will accelerate and come up on plane faster, and stay on plane at lower rpm's. You experience less vibration with a four-blade prop. You will also have an increase in speed at mid-range rpm's, but there will probably be slightly less speed at Wide Open Throttle."
Your best bet is to get the largest diameter available first then decide pitch and one last note, the radius on the Honda is 6.25 inches to the anti-cavitation plate, a 12.25 diameter is cutting it too close as you do need a little clearance, 12 inches max. This is only what I learned from searching around and experimenting, I am no expert on the subject, but I did get good results and you won't be disappointed if you purchase the Solas Alcup 4x11.8x9.
[url]http://www.solas.com/products/propeller ... er.htm[url]
I have no idea why the url's don't work, I did it right but the site won't cooperate.
Re: Prop size
Terry wrote:[/url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propeller ... ts.htm[url]
Code: Select all
It should be:
[url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propellers/a/propellingfacts.htm[/url]http://powerboat.about.com/cs/propeller ... gfacts.htm
Terry wrote:http://www.solas.com/products/propeller ... peller.htm[/code]
Like so:
http://www.solas.com/products/propeller/propeller.htm
Hope this helps,
--
Moe
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TampaMac
- Engineer
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 9:03 am
- Location: Port Richey FL 2002-26X Merc 60 4stroke
Everyone seems to think that bigger is better when it comes to props.
Isn't it true that a smaller prop will produce less drag and a higher top speed?
The same is true about the three blade vs. the four blade prop. The three blade prop will on average be faster and more efficient at all but low speeds.
Isn't it true that a smaller prop will produce less drag and a higher top speed?
The same is true about the three blade vs. the four blade prop. The three blade prop will on average be faster and more efficient at all but low speeds.
Mac26 + 50hp = very slow powerboat, so big prop is best
But if all you have are the slowest of speeds such as anything under 20 mph, then the bigger prop will be more efficient, because of its better grip on the water.TampaMac wrote:Everyone seems to think that bigger is better when it comes to props.
Isn't it true that a smaller prop will produce less drag and a higher top speed?
The same is true about the three blade vs. the four blade prop. The three blade prop will on average be faster and more efficient at all but low speeds.
..
Prop the Mac26 50 hp outboard as if it were being mounted on a large pontoon boat and you will have the right prop. As a general rule, the lowest pitch prop available for full ballast and one pitch up from that for empty ballast. Buy one of each so you have a spare.
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Mac
Many Thanks for the helpful advice
Many Thanks for all the helpful advice.
I think I'll keep the standard Honda prop that comes with the engine as a spare in storage and instead fit a Solas Alcup 4x11.8x9 and see how it goes.
As a ready-to-use spare I'll get a Michigan Wheel 3-blade 10 pitch just to see the relative performance levels under different conditions.
I had a look at the Jet-Drive option but I guess I'll wait for a year or two to see how they compare in practice.
As for the name "Mac" - as a Scots-Irish I am genuinely entitled to use the name Mac (which is part of my name)...although maybe TampaMac has the right idea...people could use their geographical location followed by the word Mac as a simple way of indicating which part of the globe they are based in...a handy way to remember someone's moniker...e.g. VancouverMac....or FrieslandMac etc.
I think I'll keep the standard Honda prop that comes with the engine as a spare in storage and instead fit a Solas Alcup 4x11.8x9 and see how it goes.
As a ready-to-use spare I'll get a Michigan Wheel 3-blade 10 pitch just to see the relative performance levels under different conditions.
I had a look at the Jet-Drive option but I guess I'll wait for a year or two to see how they compare in practice.
As for the name "Mac" - as a Scots-Irish I am genuinely entitled to use the name Mac (which is part of my name)...although maybe TampaMac has the right idea...people could use their geographical location followed by the word Mac as a simple way of indicating which part of the globe they are based in...a handy way to remember someone's moniker...e.g. VancouverMac....or FrieslandMac etc.
Has anybody here tried a stainless steel prop? I own a 21' Lund walleye boat (Typical V hull fishing boat) and was stunned at the difference when I switched from an aluminum to a stainless prop. My boat is pretty heavy, so is a Mac full of ballast, kids, etc. I run a 5 bladed Merc prop.
I don't know if they make stainless props for 50-90hp motors. They tend to be quite pricey (mine was $525), but it was as though I had a new boat when I installed it. Time to plane was cut in half. The big downside is when you clobber a rock pile at full speed. The insert in the prop is supposed to give to avoid lower unit damage. They don't bend like a traditional aluminum.
Example: Brian doing 43mph across Lake Winnipeg in late October (17 degrees F, 15 knot wind, 20 miles from any boat or ramp) hits rock pile 3 inches below surface. Damage equals $6,374, I have receipts to prove it. Engine won't run anymore because the stainless prop doesn't give and the insert doesn't function properly. It's not a Mac so I have no sail. Hours later I get rescued. There's something very depressing about suffering from hypothermia on a broken boat in Canada.
3 Morals of the story: Stainless is great for DEEP water with zero chance of hitting anything. Get a GPS with depth chips (I now use Lowrance and Navionics) But a Mac so you can sail home.
Sorry I rambled so long. Have a little free time this morning.
Searching for a Mac in Sioux City, Iowa
Brian
I don't know if they make stainless props for 50-90hp motors. They tend to be quite pricey (mine was $525), but it was as though I had a new boat when I installed it. Time to plane was cut in half. The big downside is when you clobber a rock pile at full speed. The insert in the prop is supposed to give to avoid lower unit damage. They don't bend like a traditional aluminum.
Example: Brian doing 43mph across Lake Winnipeg in late October (17 degrees F, 15 knot wind, 20 miles from any boat or ramp) hits rock pile 3 inches below surface. Damage equals $6,374, I have receipts to prove it. Engine won't run anymore because the stainless prop doesn't give and the insert doesn't function properly. It's not a Mac so I have no sail. Hours later I get rescued. There's something very depressing about suffering from hypothermia on a broken boat in Canada.
3 Morals of the story: Stainless is great for DEEP water with zero chance of hitting anything. Get a GPS with depth chips (I now use Lowrance and Navionics) But a Mac so you can sail home.
Sorry I rambled so long. Have a little free time this morning.
Searching for a Mac in Sioux City, Iowa
Brian