Questions about buying a Mac

[Macless Pete]

I have been reading this page for a while and it actually has been one of the drivers for deciding to buy a Mac. I am only looking at used Macs (mostly for budget issues), and based on my research I have found that an early goes for $21K, a late for $16K and an early for $11K (assuming average equipment and toys). I have read plenty of previous threads on this board and I am not convinced that an early is worth the extra $5k, so I am mostly looking at s, it also helps convincing the wife that I am being price conscious

Here are my questions:
1. How many of the early owners still have the original trailer, engine and sails?
2. Assuming regular use, should the outboard have carbs redone by now? What about the water pump?
3. What other telltales should I be looking for on an older (e.g. soft spots due to wet balsa core)?

I know that all of my questions have been asked one way or another, but think of it more like an update to report on how the early Xs are doing. BTW I grew up with powerboats but have been sailing 19’ Flying Scots for a while; I will keep the Mac on the Chesapeake Bay.

Thanks and looking forward to start sharing pictures soon.

[jschrade]

If I were to look at an old I would be looking for one where the cost would permit me to replace the engine with a new one. Essentially one where the engine has been factored out of the cost due to age or condition.

You really don't want carbs if you can avoid it.

Jim

[LOUIS B HOLUB]

Hi Pete - As an owner of a 99 Mac X, I havent found any problems with the structure of this boat. Its a nice family boat. Cabin and cockpit space are nicely designed. It took me a while to become accustomed to the ballast system, and the manner that this boat heels quickly.

I have the original iron trailer, which is kept out of the weather, in storage. The brakes have been removed...they're toast. But the trailer remains functional and strong, mostly because its rarely used. Our "X" is kept within a saltwater slip...for convenience. Saltwater eats an iron Mac trailer faster than a rat with cheeze.

You'll see many posts of likeable features of the Mac Boat within this site covering the "X" "M" and even the older "Classics"

Theyre some good deals available ...

[Québec 1]

Look for a fully loaded boat . The price on a used one usually does not augment much because its fully loaded. When i was looking for a boat I chose between a fully loaded S for 5 K and a fully loaded 3 year old 26M for 20K more. I choose the M because it was more of an investment and a great deal because it came with a full enclosure basically for free ( a regular 6K value which didn't really show in the asking price......and bought only 2 years earlier). It came with a pile of extras such as sail slugs, all cushions etc, etc.


I am so pleased with my boat.
Q1

[NiceAft]

Bertrand,

When did you go all white like that

Ray

[bartmac]

I wholeheartily agree on the motor issue.......on a X given the age ,the factoring in of a new motor certainly affects pricing.We bought ours without a motor and thus took that into account.However you should realise that our pricing structure in Australia is somewhat different....try $30000-$70000 so when I see US valuations........I'll have 2 please
One thing which I didn't realise at the time ......the upgrades of 1.NO balsa and 2. SS rudder brackets which appear to be a good thing along with the forward ballast tank vent

[Erik Hardtle]

Check out my website.

1. I used my trailer in salt water alot and had to replace with galvanized trailer. Still use factory sails with no problems.
2. I bought my X used with all the toys.
*** There were lots of changes/upgrades on X Models from 2000 and up... I would not look at anything older.
(stainless steels cleats, higher pedestal, air vent in vberth. The whole list can be found in the forum)

Here is a link to a 2001 MacX for sale... good price considering I bought mine used for 6 thousand more than what this one is listed:
http://albany.craigslist.org/boa/2051560028.html

[Don T]

I've been using the oem trailer since 1995. I check the brakes & wheel bearings every year. The usual problems with lights etc. but nothing major. Next on the list is the bunks.
I have tohatsu 50 that still runs great. Cleaned the carbs once and performed a sync and ignition timing cal.
Replaced the water pump and thermostat once (due again).
I replaced the genoa 2 seasons ago, still using the original main.
I'm all about preventative maintenance.

[pokerrick1]

I'm an EXTREME case, but perhaps you can gain some info - - - I had a 2006 M in a slip in MDR for 2.75 years and went sailing about 750 times (every day) - - - that's probably 10 times the normal usage of the average owner. At the end of that period, my factory main was SHOT and I had done countless repairs, especially around the M. The 150 Genoa (which I used almost every time out) was on a furhler and was not shot, but it was badly frayed in several areas along the edges. The guy who bought my boat when I moved to Las Vegas replaced both sails with better ones. My trailer was fine because I rarely used it - - - maybe took 4/5 trailer trips and covered the trailer when not in use.

My 60 HP ETEC was like new and had very few hours. Probably not much help to you.

Rick

PS I am currently pricing a new M as one of my alternatives for a boat here in Las Vegas on Lake Mead - -- because I cannot find a used boat either big or good enough - - - and I don't want anything new that's sold here; and prices for used boats here are outrageous or the boat is junk. It is shocking to me to think that I may have to pay $10,000 more for a new M now than I paid for Xmas 2005 - - - of course I need (or want) a few things now I didn't have before - - - like air conditioning at the dock and the main roller furhler.

[Macless Pete]

One of the reasons why I was considering an early was for compensating a lower cost with a new outboard, but seems like the 2000 upgrades are significant enough. Thanks for your links and pictures.

Now that the sailing season is over and the cold came, the supply of boats for sale has decreased a lot, so might have to wait for the Spring until I have my own hole in the water.

[pokerrick1]

Now that the sailing season is over

OVER

Move WEST young man move WEST

Rick

[Macless Pete]

One of the boats that I am looking at has a dock rash about 12 inches long in the bow above the wateline. The last picture from the link below is the closest I could find on the internet

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... s%3Disch:1

How serious/expensive is it to fix something like this?
Thanks

[Fxwg80hd]

Depending on how much of the fiberglass is damaged, will really determine the cost. I can almost tell you for sure that the cost of replacing the rub rail will be more than the cost of the fiberglass repair. The Rub Rail is a 50 foot piece of heavy rubber that has to be stretched to fit a 26 foot boat (I believe it ends up being stretched about 4 feet in order to fit). In order to stretch that far it has to be hooked to something like a fork lift. The old Glue takes hours to remove, which equals lots of dollars if you have someone do it. I doubt anyone would even want to guess at a price without seeing it. If you are serious about the boat, get an estimate done.