Trailer Tongue/Actuator Stuck

[fishheadbarandgrill]

So, my tongue is compressed and I can't seem to get it extended so I've got access to the reservoir. It doesn't want to extend during trailering either. Any hints as to how to get it extended?

Thanks,
Bob

[Paul S]

So, my tongue is compressed and I can't seem to get it extended so I've got access to the reservoir. It doesn't want to extend during trailering either. Any hints as to how to get it extended?

Thanks,
Bob

how rusted is it?

Chances are it is rusted in place. It took me a sledgehammer and creating new swear words to get it out when I restored my trailer. The inside of the tounge rusts reducing the inside diameter of the tounge and locks the actuator in place.

If you can remove the brake line and the 2 roller pins out. In theory, the actuator should slide out easily and you can inspect it.

If you can't do that.. you need an actuator and many hours grinding down the inside of the tounge and rustproofing it. Took me hours to get the roller pins out..as they were rusted in place

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Rats... I suspect Rust!

[Paul S]

If it is indeed rust.. You will need some decent air tools, sandblaster, etc to do the repair. Or a good friend that does.

it will make a huge mess..trust me.. my driveway looked like Sanford and Son while I was doing my trailer.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to start looking for a new trailer. The pain to the wallet will be less than the amount of work to fix yours.

Might want to call blue water yachts or the factory and maybe seeing if a new tounge can be purchased and have a trailer shop/welding shop professionally splice it in.. not sure if they sell a pre-fab tounge section or not..

[fishheadbarandgrill]

It's a 2007 aluminum trailer so the rest of the gear's in good shape. If I can salvage the acuator I will. I've already been thinking about having a local shop make a galvanized tongue and mount a new actuator. For now it's Sanford and Son's time. I'm pulling the boat to Key West mid-June so last night I started by getting as much WD-40 into the rust areas as possible. later today I'll see if I can get it unstuck. I"m thinking about hitching it to the truck and placing some pulling force in the actuator. With the truck off and parking brake on (with pulling force on actuator and trailer wheel's chocked) apply some gentle tapping with a hammer to see if I can get it dislodged.

Bob

[Paul S]

It's a 2007 aluminum trailer so the rest of the gear's in good shape. If I can salvage the acuator I will. I've already been thinking about having a local shop make a galvanized tongue and mount a new actuator. For now it's Sanford and Son's time. I'm pulling the boat to Key West mid-June so last night I started by getting as much WD-40 into the rust areas as possible. later today I'll see if I can get it unstuck. I"m thinking about hitching it to the truck and placing some pulling force in the actuator. With the truck off and parking brake on (with pulling force on actuator and trailer wheel's chocked) apply some gentle tapping with a hammer to see if I can get it dislodged.

Bob

Having a new one made out of galv would be the best. You might want to take the time, while it is apart to put a stainless brake line in and bleed the brakes. Spend the $ for a new actuator. If it is wedged in, you WILL destroy it taking it out. mine was pretty bad.

Hitting the tounge with a 2.5# sledge eventually got it out. It was hard to even get the roll pins out.. For the couple hundred bucks. I would just get a new one. If you are getting a new actuator, you might be able to access the old one from the rear portion of the tounge and whack it out (using a pole or something. But if yours is half as bad as mine was.. it will be a bear to get out.

You might want to try PB blaster instead of wd-40. far superior for this application.

Plus the tounge is so long, they tend to bend (some have broken) as they rust from inside. My old trailer (not the one I refurbished) tounge was visibly bent a lot. I am surprised it didn't break.

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Good stuff. What every I do, I don't want to dork up my Key West trip.

[Retcoastie]

If this is not too late, there is a lock spring on the actuator that may be keeping it in the ON position. I once was playing with our brake actuator level and engaged it fully. It would not release with force or spray. The actuator arm goes thru a little slot on a small medal plate. Remove that plate and there is a locking spring that holds the lever forward. Just reset that spring and the lever will work normally.


Good Luck

Ken

[fishheadbarandgrill]

It's not too late. But I'm not sure what lock spring you're refering to. How do I access it?

Bob

[Retcoastie]

Its been a long time since I posted pics, but I'll try. It will be a good refresher.



This is the cover plate removed. You can see the spring tang engaged with the slot in the lever.



Here the lever is tightened slightly.



Here the spring is raised slightly to let you get a better idea of what it is.

The lever has another slot at the bottom of its arc. If it is fully engaged the spring will lock in that lower slot and hold the lever fully engaged. I guess it is a safety thing.

Hope this helps as this is a stock X trailer. I'm hoping your M is similar.

Ken

[Paul S]

Hope this helps as this is a stock X trailer. I'm hoping your M is similar.

Ken

Nope. Not even close. Totally different actuator. There is a release on the underside on the M actuator, but it is usually when you are bleeding the system. The M has a shock absorber and spring system

some good videos on the M actuator: http://www.ufpnet.com/Actuators/tabid/54/Default.aspx

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Yep, good animations. I watched those last night. My release if free and clear and I can depress the piston with a screwdriver. I'm thinking rusted shut.

Interesting conversation with the MacGregor Factory today. I asked if they could price the tongue assembly and evidently I'm the first person to ask that question. They make them custom at the factory. After about an hour they called back with a price of $975 plus freight which would put it at about $1400 to ship to SC. They were surprised that the actuator would be rusted on a 2007 trailer. Looks like I'll be looking to a local custom trailer guy to work it if needed.

Bob

[jimmy alonso]

$1400 I had to replace the tongue on my trailer did it myself took me a while. But it did not cost much.
75 dollars for a 3X3 1/4" galvanized tube a new trailer jack a borrowed welding machine. Reused the coupler and ladder.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... 11&t=17576

Good luck

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Saw your post. I'm not a welder but I know I can find a guy that can do it. I know I can come in way under $1400.

Bob

[Paul S]

damn 1400 for piece of steel with holes cut in it..damn! No doubt there must be local options.. 1400 would buy you the labor for a custom metal fabricator and a few morgage payments!