Black Areas Of Cabin Roof

[Robert T. Pierce]

The black areas of the cabin roof in my boat are chalky and do not have the shine of the hull gel coat. Any suggestions on a product that will restore the color and shine?

[mike]

The black areas of the cabin roof in my boat are chalky and do not have the shine of the hull gel coat. Any suggestions on a product that will restore the color and shine?

Though I have not yet tried it, I was told that a product called "Penetrol" will do the trick.

--Mike

[Timm Miller]

Penatrol is a lazy way to fix it....and will look worse later. 3M Cleaner Wax will make it look new again.....use it once a season to keep it looking good......polish the area often to keep it looking good. If it is very chauky...scrub with SoftScrub first then get to work......does require some work but looks like a million bucks when done.

[Steve K]

Agree with Timm.
Marine penetrol will produce a shine and turn the area black again. But then again so will some kerosene, motor oil or even a stick of butter.
It's a temporary fix that isn't that great.

Tip:
If you plan on owning a fiberglass boat, you should also own a high speed buffer and learn to use it. It's a real work saver and will keep your boat looking boat show ready, if used regularly. If used a couple times per year, as I do, your 1997 boat will often be mistaken for a new boat.

Yea, I know what yer gonna say,
"But they are a hundred fifty bucks " . Seems pretty cheap to me, compared to some of that other boat stuff you just had to have. Some of it you never even used.
Get the buffer. Get one with a good thick pad and get a half dozen lamb's wool bonnets also. Learn to use it. It's a little tricky for about the first 10 minutes. But then you figure it out. The shine can't be compared to anything else. You'll be able to shave, using any surface of the boat for a mirror.
BTW, I really like Meguires #2 polish for use with the buffer.
SK

P.S. I'll talk more on this buffing thing if anyone wants to hear more. Gotta go now though.

[Kevin]

Since Dwen is so new and pristine I'm all noobie and dreading the first scratch.

That means the buffer idea really appeals to me.

Is it possible to run a buffer effectively from an inverter?

[HERNDON]

This is on my list of things to do before spring sailing starts.
So Steve fill us in on "How to buff out your Macs". No kidding

[Chip Hindes]

It's possible to run nearly any AC applicance from an inverter, but depending on the appliance, usually not for very long.

Here's the drill, simplified: I have a small, cheap Walmart buffer I bought specifically to try out on the boat. It 's rated at .65 amps at 120AC. Multiply AC amps times AC volts to get watts, .65 x 120 = 78 watts. You'll need an inverter capable of 78 watts continuous output to power the buffer.

Now, divide watts by DC volts to get DC amps, 78 / 12 = 6.5 ADC. One more thing; conversion efficiency through an inverter varies from 80-90%, but most of the smaller, cheaper ones are closer to 80, so divide the previous result by the efficiency to get input DC Amps. 6.5 / .8 = 8.1 amps continuous DC input. This is what you'll need to provide, either from your alternator, or your battery bank to power the buffer through the inverter.

For the sake of argument, let's say you don't want to run your outboard continuously to power the buffer. Most batteries will be able to take such a discharge for a few hours without problems, but eventually you have to put those amp hours back into the battery. Say you run your buffer for two hours; resulting in 2 x 8.5 or 19 amp hours or 19 x 12 = 228 watt hours consumed. The alternator on my 50HP Tohatsu is rated at 11 amps DC (130 watts DC) max; max means at fairly high engine RPM. So assuming there are no other running loads other than charging the battery, I'll need to run my motor at 19 / 11 or roughly 1.7 hours, at fairly high speed, to recoup the used battery power. Lower motor speed = even longer running time to recharge. Seems like quite a long time considering I like to sail, not power, most of the time.

Now, a $150 buffer like the one mentioned above is likely to have a considerably bigger motor and consume a lot more amp hours than my little puny one. Maybe you'll be able to work a lot faster and finish sooner, but either way, you can see that running a buffer off an inverter for any length of time doesn't make much sense. Bottom line: Find a power outlet somewhere.

[Bill ( My Pleasure)]

Can too much buffing destroy or damage the gelcoat? Are the cheaper buffers worth trying? Bill

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

Hopefully Steve will fill us in a bit more on the process. I have a buffer, it seems good, was only $40, but I am still confused about what bonnett to use for what part of the process. I have one lambs wool and a couple of what they call applicator bonnets, really just thin cloth. What is the right bonnett for putting the wax on and the right one to buff it off after it dries?

[Frank C]

Practical Sailor magazine has done two reviews of finishes for fiberglass, the most recent late last year. In both tests a polymer coating, described as a fiberglass restorer, was judged superior to waxes. The brands that won the tests were New Glass, Poly-Glow and another I've forgotten. I purchased the Poli-Glow product (from Boaters' World) on strength of those tests, but I've never yet applied it. I really should, as the back band on my boat is truly gray after 4 years. Anyway, I just noticed this letter to editor in Practical Sailor regarding Poli-Glow .... FWIW:
--------------------------------
Poli-Glow and Black Streaks
I just read in the January issue your article on wax products, including a sample of the hull-restorer, Poli-Glow, and thought I'd share my experience with Poli-Glow. I've been using it on my 1985 C&C 33 for about five years, with exceptional results.

The boat had become somewhat dull and chalked. I tried many different wax products, but they didn't seem to hold up, especially to any effort to remove the black streaks on the sides of the hull from the slotted aluminum toe-rail.

With my initial application of Poli-Glow, I meticulously followed the directions, especially the pre-application wax removal and cleaning. Using their wax remover, I found this to be a reasonable effort. I then applied the multiple coats, as the directions call for. I was delighted at how easily Poli-Glow wipes on, and while a little "splotchy" after the first 2-3 coats, after the full treatment the hull looked as if it was new. So shiny, in fact, that it highlights a few of the imperfections.

In subsequent years I have just cleaned the hull with soap and water and then wiped on another 2-3 coats.

This effort is significantly easier than applying even a single coat of wax. My only issue has been that on the reverse transom, which I assume gets exposed to more UV, Poli-Glow seems to break down three-quartes of the way through the season, and begins to flake off. I've found it easy to clean up with the remover product they provide, and re-apply, however.

One unanticipated benefit is how easily the hull wipes clean during the season. With the previous wax products, it seemed impossible to wash off the black-streaks from the rail, and anything beyond a mild soap would remove the wax. With the Poli-Glow surface, a light wipe of soap and water removes the dirt and streaks with little effort.

Net, I have been thrilled with this product, and recommend it strongly.

A footnote on the black streaks. Years ago I called Starbrite when their Black Streak Remover product came on the market. I found it extremely effective for removing the black streaks, but it also removed the wax. The person I spoke with told me that the black was actually aluminum oxide from the rail, and that in the Midwest and New England areas, they especially observed the problem and attributed it to acid rain. They said the reason it was so hard to remove from the side of the hull was that the wax actually attracted the oxide left when the water evaporated. They told me the active ingredient in their Black Streak Remover was one that dissolved aluminum, and that's why it was so much more effective than standard soap based hull cleaners.

-Bob McLaughlin St. Louis, MO

[Timm Miller]

It's like kitchen floor wax...put it on and forget it......takes about 5 coats before it starts looking good........on close inspection...you'll notice overlap marks. They send a bottle of cleaner (soft scrub) and a scrub pad. This scrubs off the faded, chauky gelcoat.....then you start wiping it on. If not kept up with, it will eventually start to look like @@%%!*(. An application is good for about 2 years. I don't think it shines or looks as nice as using cleaner waxes and polish and a good coat of marine wax.....but this is convienent if you're not near your boat or don't want to bother using waxes and rubbing.

[HERNDON]

Steve K.

Looks like a sunny weekend heading for California....How about lessons
on How to buff your Mac.

Rob H.

[Chuck Healey]

I have used the liqued glass product as well and was very happy with the results. Be sure to remove any oxidation and wax before applying. Be sure to follow the instructions and apply at least 4 coats (wipes on easily). It's also a good idea to wear rubber gloves or you will look like your wearing fingernail polish after your finished.

[Don T]

Hello:
Personally, I've never been a fan of polymer coatings. I use buffy once a year with Meguires #6 cleaner wax. Most people think the boat is new. My black ares can get dull if I let it go a couple of years so I use #1 to clean them up. To answer the other question, YES, too much buffing will eventually wear through the gel coat. Of course it slowly breaks down and oxidizes so you loose it anyway. Polymers will slow that process but I don't like the look after it's on a while. #6 workes great to pass over the windows to keep them clear of haze and water spots. I finish the windows with Meguires Mirror Glaze to remove any swirls or scratches. Gets rid of the static too. The buffer is really great when you have to do a gel coat repair. You can sand the area smooth and use #1 to buff it out to a gloss. Makes the repair almost invisible. I had a gouge on the port side just above the chine about 6" long, now only I can find where it was.

[Nauti & Nice]

No buffing required,

www.newglass2.com

This is the one I used, found the bottle in my workshop and the address
was on it. It sounds like the same thing as polyglass and others.

I also used it on my chrome rims which go into the salt water and no
rust at all last season.

George