Replacing pivot pin rubber seals...

[seatime1]

Can anyone tell me how to replace the pivot pin rubber seals without having thekeel drop down on the trailer too far to get the holesd realigned?...I am a new owner and the keel is heavy folks...if it drops down it is going to be tuff to get the holes realigned aint it? I think the leak I have may be occuring there as the rubber seals seem to be original and very dry...another problem is where to get the rubber replacement seals...can you advise?

I also have a question posted on the leak and rigging the rudder llock mechanism...need your advice lads!

Seatime

[ChockFullOnuts22]

You will need a hydraulic jack for that job. What you want to do is apply just enough lift with the jack to take the weight off of the pivot bolt. Then you can remove the bolt and washers. As long as you do not move the jack before reinstalling the bolt, the keel should not move. I've used this method on both my V222 and M25 with no problems.

[Sumner]

You will need a hydraulic jack for that job. What you want to do is apply just enough lift with the jack to take the weight off of the pivot bolt. Then you can remove the bolt and washers. As long as you do not move the jack before reinstalling the bolt, the keel should not move. I've used this method on both my V222 and M25 with no problems.

We don't own this boat, so this might or might apply. I'd support it like above or in some way then and this is the part I don't know will work or not since we don't have the same boat, but drive the old bolt out with a temporary bolt of the same size. It will then capture the keel from the opposite side.

I'm assuming you then would put a new washer/seal on the old bolt and drive it back in forcing the temporary one back out and put the new washer/seal on the nut side. Is that an option? I often use the same technique when working on other things,

Sum

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[Freedom77]

Yeah, What Chockfullonuts said. I've done it on my V-21, V-222 & V-25. Also advise making sure wheels are firmly chocked and trailer is braced for and aft. Better safe that sorry. Fair Winds and Full Sails....

[gb0409]

i used the hydraulic jack method works well, as for the gaskets i used tractor trailer inner tubes cut into round circles and folded them in half and then in half again then took scissors and cut a small corner off and put two layers on each side of the bolt and then a large flat washer. Worked great no leaks and very affordable...$0.00 dollars.

[THE CUSCUS]

You can also just smear Boatlife Lifecaulk (a polysulfide sealer) all around the bolt/washer/nut as it is. This sealer will cure when wet and does a fine job of sealing without removing the bolt. I do this on mine, even after replacing the seals and I put a cutdown wine cork in my lockdown holes and "seal" them in to keep water from coming in there too.
http://boatlife.com/life-calk.html

[seatime1]

Thanks to all of you for the helpful replies...Did you folks know about Blue Water Yachts,,,they have all MacGregor parts even for the older boats...you can contact them at 11-800-688-8626....really nice people with a tech rep (Mike) that is top gun. Best customer service on the planet...

I was advised to block up the keel even when using the floor jack...the idea about the bolt inserted from the other side is a good one.. I can drive the new pin in forcing the dummy back out...hopefully I will not damage the threads.

If you lads need coax, go to "The Wireman"..RG 58 is 38 cents a foot and the connectors including thru hull double female is much cheaper than West Marine. I have used them for material to fit out two radios.

Hodges Street Sail Loft in Oriental NC cleans and repairs sails very reasonably...give Gil Fontes a call for an estimate on cleaning...I have sent all my sails to him and they come back really nice...my sails are in good shape when I send them but he can make them look much better.

Thanks again to all of you that replied...great website and super cluster of sailors!

Tight sheets and pretty girls to ya....

Seatime

[mdlark]

I replaced mine.
Once under the boat with the jack holding the weight, I slightly lifted and lowered it in tiny increments to get a feel for the play and jack movement and just where I wanted the lift.
The keel would wiggle side to side on the bolt.
I experimented carefully to notice how much it moved in any direction.
I got it so I figured there was no stress on the bolt. I placed shims to stabilize the keel.
I got in, took the nut and seal off, then turned the bolt and undermined the seal on that side.
It unscrewed and drove out easily but once free on one side, the Bolt seemed to sag ever so slightly from absolute horizontal.
I decided before I took it all the way out I'd try to put it back. Seemed I'd have had to hit it or twist it in but the hole was not so small. I wasn't worried about the threads since it is giong into much softer material. I just didn't want to pound or force anything steel against glass. I went down and gave the jack an educated, ever so slight, pump while watching. It barely moved but seemed to add just a little up pressure. I shoved my ceder shake wedges in a bit more so it looked straight.
I went in. The bolt was loose, wiggily. I pushed it to the hole, could see it could go back, So then I pulled it out with no resistance at all.
Replaced the same with sealant on the new rubber as it had been , thinking someday I'll need to do it again if I leave it at a mooring in the ocean.
The replacement went back through with no resistance at all. Relpaced the seals, cups, and nut. Done.
My question is ....WHY would anyone not buy a new bolt and seal from Bluewater since the Keel pivot bolt assembly et all comes as a kit for $25.00 ??
Why fabricate anything ? Given the number of times it ever needs to be done why save money making gaskets ?
Everything takes time, even if the materials are free.
Sure you can get a bolt for less but the cups and gaskets are made just right for the holes in the keel trunk.
Cutting and drilling rubber isn't that easy. It is all well and good if one has scraps, knowledge, and time.
The company that designed it still makes and wants to sell the parts. Why not support them and
get the factory part so it is fool proof ? Why spend time on experiments when the tried and true is there for $25 ?
Glue the thing well enough, it may be harder to tear it all apart next time or leak anyway.
I just don't get it. Time is money too, the thing is available just buy it from Bluewater and avoid headaches.
One great advantage of these boats is you can call the company, they answer the phone and know what you are talking about. Still in business.