Halyards back to cockpit - 26M- Rotating Mast

[No Control]

what I did works perfectly. No undue stress on any of the hardware.

...At least on our boat, the bolts holding the cheek turning block were long enough to stack the second block on top of it without a problem. The hardest part (not really hard) is to remove all the foam to access the nuts..and you need a helper to hold the nuts while turning the bolt. I have seen others who just run the line to a block on the base of a stancion, which will work, but you may need a new main halyard. I think the way I did it is more elegant/simple, and not a tripping hazard....

Paul, Or anyone who can answer.... Exactly how do you access the bolts for the cheek turning block on an ?

Thanks,
David

[c130king]

Mine is not bolted...just screwed into the fiberglass. Has held for 6 years.

The swivel blocks at the base of my mast were screwed in but they were pulling loose so I pulled all the foam out of that compartment up above the forward dinette seat and used bolts/nuts. But don't know how to bolt the check blocks.

Good luck.

Jim

[bscott]

Harken pivoting lead block w/cam cleat riveted directly to the mast about 1' above the deck. The halyards (main and jib) flow back to the cockpit OR I can pivot them to raise the main or the jib from the foredeck.

Absolutely no interference with the rotating mast or mast raising tackle, no holes in the deck, 1/2 hour to install

I can't find it in the WM book but Ronstan has a similar Model 3724159

Bob

[Paul S]

what I did works perfectly. No undue stress on any of the hardware.

...At least on our boat, the bolts holding the cheek turning block were long enough to stack the second block on top of it without a problem. The hardest part (not really hard) is to remove all the foam to access the nuts..and you need a helper to hold the nuts while turning the bolt. I have seen others who just run the line to a block on the base of a stancion, which will work, but you may need a new main halyard. I think the way I did it is more elegant/simple, and not a tripping hazard....

Paul, Or anyone who can answer.... Exactly how do you access the bolts for the cheek turning block on an ?

Thanks,
David

from below - above the galley on the 03/4 M, there is an access panel. I assume there is one on the later models above the settee on the starboard side

take out all the foam, have someone hold the nut with a wrench and unscrew it from the deck. Don't forget to seal the bolts when you reinstall the bolts.

Pretty easy.. time consuming, but easy

I prefer to through bolt than self tap. That is just me. Takes longer, but thats how I decided to do it

Paul

[parrothead]

The item Bob is referring to is a Harken 140. You will find it in the WM online catalog if you search for that term. Here's a photo with my mod of a few years ago. http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=955

Doug

[No Control]

Thanks for all the info....right now I just want to add a cheek block to the top of the original daggerboard cheek.
I am still not sure how to get to the thru deck bolts for that cheek block .
I have a 2011 M, and the only thing that looks like it might be an access is the fake wood "ceiling" that surrounds the daggerboard housing and is over the forward dinnett seat. Lots of screws, and I am guessing lots of foam in that area. This is not one of the simple "mirror" type access ports. No problem for me to tear into that but, just want to make sure that is the right way.

As always any help is really appreciated.

[c130king]

Unscrew all those screws and then pull out all the foam blocks/planks. You can also remove the panel on the port side the DB.

Hopefully that will give you access where you want to install cheek blocks.

Jim

[Highlander]

easy access


http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0004-2.jpg

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0002-3.jpg

In the last half of this video you can see some of my rigging mods
http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010064.mp4

Hope this helps
J

[turtonr]

I attached blocks with cam cleat direct to mast. I have to return the mast to it's fixed position to lower the gib. Hasn't concerned me that much as I don't rotate the mast in heavy weather.