26X Centerboard will not fully retract

[esc]

I don't think that line stretch would account for it because even after manually raising the CB with a jack, the line could not be tightened any further. It must have been hanging up on something.

I called BWY this afternoon and ordered a new bracket and pin. When I asked about the cable, they told me that, even though it says discontinued on the web site, they had them in stock and would ship everything to me today. So I have a new cable/rope piece as well as the bracket and pin on the way. They also confirmed that a new CB would weigh less than 40 lbs.

I think I will see what I can get to wash out of the CB. Maybe it is full of mud. The bottom around here is nothing but mud, the deep sticky kind that likes to eat shoes.

Earlier today I stopped by West Marine and got a length of low stretch line that I could use for the CB as well. I'll try the new steel cable with the old bracket first, then the new bracket, then the rope. If it still doesn't work right, I may order a new CB and cut my old one in half and see what is inside.

[esc]

I just went to wash it out and found that water flows freely between most of the holes.
There is one set that would be the lowest when the CB is fully retracted. It is one of the two sets that are in-line near the bracket. That lower set of holes seems to be sleeved. It has an inner wall which makes a passage from one side of the CB to the other without opening to the inside of the board. poking the wall with an Allen wrench, I could not remove any material.

Is this hole supposed to be open? With it closed there is no way for 1/2 of the water to get out. I wonder if I should use an over sized drill bit and open it up?

[vkmaynard]

Used boat that the previous owner added lead to the CB?

[Retcoastie]

Another thought, although it may be way off. Could that second set of holes with the sleeve in them be the original pivot pin hole? Perhaps the PO drilled a second pin hole for some reason. That could explain the raising line have a difficult time holding the CB up.

Ken

[Tomfoolery]

Got any pictures?

[esc]

I don't think any lead was added because it would be on the wrong end of the CB.
The holes do not appear to have been modified.

On the picture below, the hole that I think should be open to the central cavity but instead passes through the CB without access to the central cavity, is circled in yellow.
The other 3 holes which go all the way through and ARE open to the inside (so they can allow water in/out) are circled in blue.
The pin hole is circled in red.
The line attachment point is circled in orange.

Since neither the yellow nor red holes are open to the internal cavity they can not act as drains. When the CB is UP (horizontal) the lowest drain is at the mid point of the CB. This means that the CB will always be 1/2 full of water.

[opie]

So, 5 foot board, 1/2" cavity, 10 inches wide, 60 x .5 x 10 = 300 cuin of water
x 1/2 full per your estimate = 150 cuin of water
at Cubic inch of water = 0.036127 #, equals 5.41905 # of water weight.
So this is not the whole issue, it seems, since you report more weight than factory standard.
Maybe the guess about lead being
melted and poured inside may have some relevance in your investigation.
Since you may buy a new board??? Let us see what is inside after you chainsaw
the CB....... just kidding.... try the new line/cable first....

[esc]

I think that 1/2" thick is an underestimate. I think It is closer to 1.5" on the leading edge and most of the way across. But that still only accounts for ~17 lbs. Maybe one of the PO's (I'm the third) did add some weight to it.

My parts should be here Tomorrow or Monday. I'll know more after I reassembly with new stuff.

[Tomfoolery]

Thanks for the pic. I didn't know what it looked like out of the boat, and now I do. I'll file that pic away for future reference.

I can say with certainty that mine lifts easily with one hand. I leave it half way down when I'm lining up to put the boat on its trailer, and just pull it up with one hand as I'm coming over the back of the trailer. Hardly any effort required at all. I did notice, the last time I pulled the trailer out of the water, that a lot of water was draining out of the center of the boat, and I didn't know why. Now I know.

[esc]

I found one more piece to the puzzle. In looking through the notes I took when I bought it, I found a reference that the second owner made about the first owner adding weight to the "leading edge" of the center board. I had completely forgotten about that!

Now I know why it weights so much. I just need to figure out how to keep it in the trunk!

[esc]

Today I installed a new hanger bracket with pin and a new steel/line cable. Despite their web site listing it as a discontinued item, BWYachts had the original style cable in stock.

Because of the extra weight in my CB I do have to use the winch to raise it the last few inches, but it does raise and I get a very satisfying "Clunk" when it is fully retracted.

I'm still not positive what was wrong as the damage to the bracket and the wear on the cable both seemed VERY slight, but replacing them resolved the problem.

[Divecoz]

esc: Its not uncommon when the mechanical advantage is on the cusp that even a little difference is all it takes to stop movement,, Maybe its time to look at a 3 to 1 advantage / pulleys?? Numerous members found this necessary for weighted DB's on M's

Today I installed a new hanger bracket with pin and a new steel/line cable. Despite their web site listing it as a discontinued item, BWYachts had the original style cable in stock.

Because of the extra weight in my CB I do have to use the winch to raise it the last few inches, but it does raise and I get a very satisfying "Clunk" when it is fully retracted.

I'm still not positive what was wrong as the damage to the bracket and the wear on the cable both seemed VERY slight, but replacing them resolved the problem.

[DaveB]

I had to rebuild my centerboard.
Head was split apart and lower needed total refiberglass. Same time I replaced centerboard line with all braided X line. This required a local Braider to put in a small eye splice.
Dave

I don't think any lead was added because it would be on the wrong end of the CB.
The holes do not appear to have been modified.

On the picture below, the hole that I think should be open to the central cavity but instead passes through the CB without access to the central cavity, is circled in yellow.
The other 3 holes which go all the way through and ARE open to the inside (so they can allow water in/out) are circled in blue.
The pin hole is circled in red.
The line attachment point is circled in orange.

Since neither the yellow nor red holes are open to the internal cavity they can not act as drains. When the CB is UP (horizontal) the lowest drain is at the mid point of the CB. This means that the CB will always be 1/2 full of water.

[esc]

esc: Its not uncommon when the mechanical advantage is on the cusp that even a little difference is all it takes to stop movement,, Maybe its time to look at a 3 to 1 advantage / pulleys?? Numerous members found this necessary for weighted DB's on M's

That isn't a bad idea. When I use the winch, I have to cleat it in the jib cleat as the CB cleat is in the wrong position. If I added a couple of blocks I might be able to use the correct cleat so it would not interfere with the jib. Of course, I'm not sure when I would need to sheet in the jib with the centerboard fully retracted...but you never know.

[Tomfoolery]

I'd suggest you try using a small single sheave block (ball bearings preferred) for 2:1 purchase, tied to the new CB line, dead-end the two-part line on the winch or jib cam cleat (just for testing purposes), and try it. You should be able to raise the CB all the way with one hand and put it in the proper cam cleat. You can always go to 3-parts of line with another block, but that's a lot of line to bring in. I leave my CB down when I put the boat on the trailer, and bring it up just before it hits, so I like to be able to bring it full up with just one pull, from the helm. That's one reason I wouldn't want to have to bring in too much line in a hurry. If it works out, put a permanent termination on the deck for the dead end. If you need 3 parts of line, the terminations would be different, of course, plus a second block, which I'd try to avoid.