26X nightmares to avoid

[Al Garrett]

I wonder if I could get some experienced advice on what to look for Sunday on a lightly equipped 26X. It has new main and jib and a 25 hp Johnson 2 stroke and trailer, not much else.

What would be the worst, hard to fix items I should look out for? I fear things like leaky ballast tanks, centerboard trunk damage, anything that would be very difficult to DYI.

Thanks,

Al

[Uncle Jim]

Look closely at the trailer. Many of these still have the original painted steel trailer. Bunks will break off, axles will brake, brakes fail. if it has an original trailer that is worth between $2000 and $3500 discount compared to the same boat with a new dual axle trailer

[06HARLEYULTRA]

To start off with, I am NO expert and am currently shopping myself.
I would look at the year, usage, salt vs fresh, general condition, receipts of repair (or lack of), and take a flashlight, pen/paper, recorder ect. Do some research on the enginge before hand. Trailer condition is a big concern, unless you plan to replace or not use. Look at all bunks, tongue, axle, ect for deep rust. Adjust your price accordingly. If your serious about the boat, have another owner go with you, or have a marine surveyor do a formal inspection. This may save you several thousand dollars and headaches. Good luck
Let me know how it goes, as this will help me also.

Rich

[kevinnem]

I am looking to buy one as well, things I have noticed-

1) engines - what do you plan on useing , and what does ti have now? I plan to use a huge engine on mine, so idealy, I want one with out an engine. Some are sold with 9.9HP (under 10 HP is a different class), some with 20-25, some with 40/50's and some with more then that. Also, there is great difference between the quality of the engines. I think there is some differance between fuel tanks as well.

2) Sail set and quality. Some of them have shot sails, some have great sails. Some come with main, jib; some come with mail, storm,jib, 150 Genoa and spiniker.

3) trailer - already mentioned.

4) some come without a stove, I think.

[Divecoz]

Engine aside......... If you have Major concerns with anything.. I think you might well be the first one on this board to do so.. Bunks hahaha NoBigDeal about $50 BTDT..
Trailer.... Look for Major ....Rust .... Not surface rust on the tongue maybe around Axel welds.. Fresh or salt water?? Salt is a LOT harder on everything..Snapped Axel?? Really?? Not on paved roads and IMHO not unless It Was ....Your Fault.. Might the sails be baggy? Yep.. Often your buying more neglected.. than used.. Shop around ..compare.. I am as you see in ILLINOIS so I feel I can say without prejudice or , concern of it.. The Texas Sailor site acan be a darn good yard stick $$$$ and it post boats from all over the USA..

[Mac26Mpaul]

The good thing about frozen snot boats is that they can always be fixed no matter what. I'd consider buying one with a broken back if it were at the right price! Just have a good look around the boat, interior and exterior including rigging and sails, if it all looks okay, it most likely will be

Motor and trailer on the other hand are different stories. Trailers can be worth just as much as the boat (or more) when it comes to older trailer sailers. Motors, well, you dont really no what you are buying, especially if its older, but buying a Mac cheap with a dodgy motor is fine if you have factored in the cost of a new motor...

[mastreb]

Salt is a LOT harder on everything

True, but it's a lot more important to know whether the boat was slipped or trailered while in storage. Dry storage is MUCH easier on the boat than being slipped. Also, salt is really hard on metals but has no impact on fiberglass at all. The hull will remain structurally integral irrespective, but you'll want to inspect the rudder brackets on a boat that has been stored in saltwater.

Finally, boats slipped in fresh water for the first year of their life may well have cosmetic problems with blistering as VOCs naturally exiting the fiberglass can cause blisters in the gel coat. Boats slipped in saltwater or trailered won't have this problem. It's cosmetic only and more likely to occur in colder temperatures, but does bug people who don't know that it can happen. After the first year, VOCs have out-gassed to the point that there's nothing to worry about. If the boat has been bottom painted, this problem will be undetectable (and irrelevant).

[Chinook]

It's worth paying attention to the production year of the boat. Early models, up to around 1998 or 1999, had some weak points involving balsa core foredeck, poor design of rudder brackets, and steering system subject to failure. You won't completely avoid problems with a newer model, but you might avoid a few. If it is an older model, check those areas. If you still like the boat, you can always use these considerations in negotiating price.

[dlandersson]

Early model (before 2000?) 26X's (like mine) used Balsa wood to reinforce the structure - check for any damage, leaks etc. that would have allowed water to reach and rot the Balsa wood.

I wonder if I could get some experienced advice on what to look for Sunday on a lightly equipped 26X. It has new main and jib and a 25 hp Johnson 2 stroke and trailer, not much else.

What would be the worst, hard to fix items I should look out for? I fear things like leaky ballast tanks, centerboard trunk damage, anything that would be very difficult to DYI.

Thanks,

Al

[Herschel]

I have a 1998 26X, which I have owned for the last 8 years. It is a totally freshwater used boat, exclusively in Michigan and Florida. Some of the repairs I have made as part of my efforts to keep my boat in good shape might be areas for you to check on in this boat that you are considering. I have replaced the the ballast tank valve, fore stay, engine water pump impeller, batteries, interior water pump impeller, bolt on the steering system, electrical 12-volt socket at base of mast for mast running and anchor lighting, faucet in head, brakes on trailer, tires/wheels on trailer (I have an original trailer that has been upgraded to dual axle). I have had to fix a leak in ballast tank (previous owner put a through hull instrument through the ballast tank; not a good idea, but I am making it work), improperly painted bottom paint (a very long story), install an adjustable engine mount (so I could raise the level of my Mercury Bigfoot to get better operation), carburetors rebuilt (shellack build up if not stored properly), Sunbrella strip for covering reefed jib, Bimini patched, and mainsail cover clamps replaced. There have been other regular maintenance expenses, but those are the major unplanned extra expenses. I think an idea I can offer with some confidence is that, if the shrouds and stays on the boat you are considering are original, and over 10 years old, you can make a good case for considering that a negotiating point for lower price. It is my understanding that they should be looked at carefully every ten years, especially if operating around salt water. Since they apparently corrode from the inside out, it makes it difficult to check without cutting into them. I just replaced my fore stay which was 13 years old, and it was in pretty good shape. Again, my boat has been entirely in fresh water. Please don't let this list discourage you. I am very happy with my MacGregor. Best wishes.

[06HARLEYULTRA]

Thank you

[bahama bound]

Thank you

im in charleston and my wife and kids pushed me into buying our 96 x a ,we found ours on lake keowee a couple months ago ,we bought it to trailer back and forth to key west and do some of these great trips bimini ,tortugas ,cumberland island ,i wanna take ours up to devils fork ,lake jocassee ,anyway we still have our big powerboat but these boats are great for what they are ,im repowering mine now ,but i think if you find one like we did for a reasonable price then you can repower ,add electronics and personalize your boat to suite your taste ,ive had every kind of boat you can think of and ive never seen a more loyal informative fun loving owners group in my life ask a question and you will get a hundred replies ,its great to have all that support behind you these people know these boats inside and out and are happy to help new owners anyway they can !!!!!after seeing this and conch cruisers i was hooked

[Mic]

Although I have a 1990 Mac 26D I was surprised the problems I have had to rectify are just about the same as Herschel reported. From shrouds, stays, split ballast tank, engine servicing, rudder and dagger boards braking etc etc. After repairing the ballast tank the other repairs held no fear for me.
As for the trailer I found both springs were broken at the rear eye attachment. This was very difficult to see unless you got under the trailer. I discovered this when after a rough ride home I saw one spring off to the side scrapping the hull. I repaired the whole trailer back to original condition setting the axle back over 12 inches. Now its great ride with motor and rudder in place plus gas tanks in the Laz. I intend to lengthen the tow bar to accomodate spare tire and bow steps also in time add second axle. But as the rear admiral said "are you going to play at fixing it or sailing it as is"? So ASAP I went sailing as is. Thats when I found out what was important to fix in order to sail.
I have to be carful that the "instrument (for sailing) doesn't become the object" as I enjoy both.

[Al Garrett]

I went to Greers Ferry Lake today to look at the 2000 26X. It was pretty rough on the outside and dirty but nice inside. When I saw the extensive blistering from one end of the hull to the other, I was really disappointed. Having spent 6 months on my back below a similarly damaged houseboat hull, I was not wanting to do that again. The owner admitted that it sat 8 years in the lake unprotected and that his son had slopped some gelcoat on to cover part of the damage. However, he was ready to deal and came down considerably on the price. So I bought it and me and my Dad aired up the two flats. Made it home without a spare and without losing any of the cushions I forgot to secure. It was a very good day indeed.

It's the first 26X I've seen in person and it really is an awesome boat. I plan to keep it in my driveway for the next couple of years fixing everything and equipping it to the max for comfortable cruising on rivers and lakes. The nice things about a bare boat is that it's a blank canvass without many scars from others' mods. Like my last boat, I'll do everything possible to upgrade the electronics, better 12 v panel, shore power, both type of outlets spread from the bow to the stern, led lighting, 2-3 batteries with autocharge, 100 w solar cell, solar ventilators, depth finder, gps, generator, fans, power water, transon shower, etc. Except for the hull, I won't have to rebuild this boat before I can get started. Not sure where to mount a flat screen TV.

Thanks to all your suggestions about what to look for. Those, along with the hundreds of posts I've read on this site, were very helpful.

The happiest days in a boater' s life are...


Al

[kmclemore]

Congrats, Al, and welcome to the club!

How about some 'before' photos? And keep us in the loop with photos of your restoration - we love this stuff!