Trailer Lights ... Arrrggghhhh

[Fred Rio]

Hello everyone,

I've had my new Mac for a little over a year. The original trailer lights went out after a few months so I replaced them with "submersible" LED clusters that I found where available in several stores including Pep Boys, Wall Mart and Auto Zone. Although I have been disciplined about disconnecting them when launching they have been going out one by one and I am now down to a single LED per side.

Has anyone had the same problems?
Has anyone found a brand that is reliable?

Thanks,

Fred

[markdartist]

I bought LED lights at West Marine two summers ago, back them into the river without disconnecting and they've held up just fine. I also had a ground lug welded to the trailer. Since then, I've avoided a lot of lights work, lights don't work stress.

[Fred Rio]

I bought LED lights at West Marine two summers ago, back them into the river without disconnecting and they've held up just fine. I also had a ground lug welded to the trailer. Since then, I've avoided a lot of lights work, lights don't work stress.

Hmmmm ... Just as I was looking for an excuse to go and visit the new Weat Marine "super store" in Fort Lauderdale ...
hopefully the third time's a charm!

Thanks for the advice!

Fred

[Kittiwake]

I picked up a set of LED trailer lights to replace the stock Mac ones a year ago: I chose the SEASENSE brand based on a modest amount of web research. I believe they are fairly widely available and have been on the market for a number of years. I launched in salt water this summer for a total of a half dozen immersions without problems.
Kittiwake

[Harry van der Meer]

Run a ground wire to each of the lights rather then rely on grounding the lights to the trailer. Worked for me.

[vkmaynard]

Hello everyone,

I've had my new Mac for a little over a year. The original trailer lights went out after a few months so I replaced them with "submersible" LED clusters that I found where available in several stores including Pep Boys, Wall Mart and Auto Zone. Although I have been disciplined about disconnecting them when launching they have been going out one by one and I am now down to a single LED per side.

Has anyone had the same problems?
Has anyone found a brand that is reliable?

Thanks,

Fred

I bought a set of Tiger Accessories 100,000 hours LED lights from Northern Tools. The LEDs fail one or two at a time. Terrible brand. However, the company has replaced them for the last two years. Now on the third set. They see very little salt water usage and maybe a total of 12-20 launches per year. If you have this brand call the company.

[Octaman]

There really is only one solution to the issue; detachable lights that will come off every time the trailer goes into the water. We all know that by now, don't we

It really isn't that much of a big deal taking them off; fit it into your regular launching procedure and take light off while waiting for the brakes to cool down.

My lights deteriorated very fast. Threw them away and have a detachable set with cord and plug. All comes off or goes on in minutes. And while your trailer sits in your back yard over winter taking the beating of the elements your lights wait safely protected in your garage ready to go for the next season.

Happy power sailing!

Octaman

[RobertB]

Most LED lights are sealed units - leaving on or removing for launching should not be an issue (with reasonable quality hardware - I use the West Marine lights). My pet peeve is corrosion in the splices - trailer originally built using standard automotive splices. I have replaced these with sealed splices and also coal the disconnects with dialectric grease.
I personally leave everything attached for launching since I launch/retrieve averytime I use the boat.

[raycarlson]

"while your waiting for brakes to cool down" What is that about ? the water seems to cool my wheels down just fine, not that they need to be cooled or anything,just don't get what your accomplishing by this and does it mean i shouldn't drive in a rain storm after using my brakes?

[Freedom77]

As I have mentioned in previous posts regarding this issue: Lights/wiring and water, especially salt water don't mix. Four Decades ago I constructed a light bar out of aluminum unistrut. 8 ft in length which set the lights at the legal outside clearance limit. YOu can probably find beam locally at salvage yard and four part wiring at trailer supply. You can also run clearance lights for fenders off same setup. Also attached license plate to it. Attach the light bar to the stern pulpit with bungees. KISS. Run the wiring over the top of the boat to the vehicle plug. I even put plug on light bar end so I could just roll up wiring. Wires never get wet so no water corrosion. I even put the plug inside the trunk to keep it from getting wet. Takes less than a minute to attach or remove. Grounded light bar to the car.This also eliminates the problem of the boat and mast sticking out past the legal clearance which in most states is 3 feet and the visibilty is better. Got a ticket from one of Califonia's finest when I go my first boat for clearance issue. Also you just throw the lightbar into your vehicle and lock it up. If it's too long put a hinge in the middle so you can fold it. Keeps some folks from shopping your trailer for lights and license plates while your out having fun. Voice of experience. Fair Winds and Full Sails....Old Salt

[trdprotruck]

"while your waiting for brakes to cool down" What is that about ? the water seems to cool my wheels down just fine, not that they need to be cooled or anything,just don't get what your accomplishing by this and does it mean i shouldn't drive in a rain storm after using my brakes?

Anytime metal is really hot, it needs to be cooled slowly as in welding processes etc. Heat will tend to make metal parts expand and cooling will do the opposite. Cooling/Heating of metal in an drastic uneven fashion will lead to warpage and failed welds etc.

I don't think that the average trailer brakes will be super hot and there won't be a huge enough change of temp to cause a problem during launching. If you ever look at race cars going around a track at night, look at their brake rotors as they are going around a turn. You will notice that the rotors are glowing. Dumping these brakes in the drink will definately cause issues.



When you are driving in the rain, your rotors are constantly being cooled in a somewhat even fashion.

Just an edjamcational tangent about blinker fluid, hasp polish and such. Back to trailer lights.

[Crikey]

Another reason for the 'cool down' wait regimen is the trailer bearings that you are about to submerge. A hot bearing will suck water in past the seals, and trap it there. With bearing buddy style grease nipples you can recharge the hub and push it out again but allowing a little time to pass is a good practice, if you can do it.

[mastreb]

I'm pretty fast at rigging my boat on the hard, about 15 minutes. That's more than enough time for brakes and hubs to cool from typical trailering. I'm not sure who's coming straight off the racetrack and dunking their boat in the water, but it ain't me. Appropriate wait time is built into a boat that has to be rigged.

[snotnosetommy]

This also eliminates the problem of the boat and mast sticking out past the legal clearance which in most states is 3 feet and the visibilty is better. Got a ticket from one of Califonia's finest when I go my first boat for clearance issue. Also you just throw the lightbar into your vehicle and lock it up. If it's too long put a hinge in the middle so you can fold it. Keeps some folks from shopping your trailer for lights and license plates while your out having fun. Voice of experience. Fair Winds and Full Sails....Old Salt

Good post. I never gave this idea a thought. Even tho I rewired my trailer last winter and soldered the splices, I know the wiring will deteriorate sitting outside in just a couple of seasons, dunking not withstanding. I may have rewired my last trailer.

[Crikey]

I'm pretty fast at rigging my boat on the hard, about 15 minutes. That's more than enough time for brakes and hubs to cool from typical trailering. I'm not sure who's coming straight off the racetrack and dunking their boat in the water, but it ain't me. Appropriate wait time is built into a boat that has to be rigged.

Especially if you take some time for tea .... aforehand.