Spinnaker Hardware & Rigging Questions

[c130king]

All,

Getting close to pulling the trigger on a new Spinnaker from Hyde Sails (.75 oz FiberMax 44 -- 312 sq ft). But have some questions I am hoping some of you with Spinnakers can answer:

will attach a new hound 18" above the current hound.

1) What type/size of block for the halyard is recommended?
2) How do you attach the block to the hound? (just a shackle?)
3) What size line for the halyard? (not planning to use the sock at this time...will launch from a bag)

Halyard will be run through a couple of turning blocks back to the cockpit and secured on a horn cleat.

Tack line will be run back to the cockpit through a couple of fairleads on the starboard side.

4) What type/size of block for the tack line?
5) How do you attach the tack line block? To the anchor roller? To the pulpit (can it take the stress)?
6) What size line for the tack line?

Will go with seperate sheet for each side...each about 50' long to allow for lazy sheet to be run forward of furled genoa and then back to cockpit.

7) What type of blocks for the sheet back in the cockpit?
Attach sheet blocks to rear stanchion?
9) Could I use my current track mounted genoa cam cleats?
10) Recommended line type/size for sheets? (Is 1/4" too small...want to keep the sheets low weight)

Trying to get a feel for how much hardware I will need and how much all this hardware and line will cost.

Thanks,
Jim

[snotnosetommy]

I'm a couple of months behind you, Jim. What kinda spin, are you gonna use it DDW or for reaching?

[c130king]

My thinking is to have a sail for those days when the winds are very light...reaching and downwind sailing. I have been sailing for about 5 years now and I am ready to broaden my horizons and try something new. Never flown a spinnaker before. I drove Bastonjock's in England once while he went up on his foredeck and got his spinnaker and sock out (at first an utter disaster but eventually he got it flying for a while before the winds got too strong)...but I have never done it myself.

I got a lot of great info on types of Spinnakers and how to use them from Judy B via email. Haven't quite pulled the trigger yet...the cost of all the hardware and line I will need to run this thing (on top of the actual cost of the sail) is a little bit daunting.

But if I am going to do this then now is the time. I will have time this Spring to get the hardware installed and try everything out. I retire from the Air Force in August and I will be moving back down to Mississippi and my time may be more limited as I start my next career (which might involve saying "Welcome to Walmart" or "Would you like a hot apple pie with your order today?"...). Right now I am living solo in Virginia as my wife has already moved since she got hired as a teacher in Mississippi. So no family obligations or any "honey do's" until June when she comes back to Virginia to start getting us packed up for the move.



Cheers,
Jim

[Terry]

I can give you a couple pointers I discovered when doing mine last summer Jim. keep in mind the sail is light so light line is advisable, I think I used 1/4 inch. I also added a D shackle or some variant to the ends of the halyard, tack line, and sheets so that they could be left on deck and just shackled to the pulpit when not in use. it is easier to put the lines in their respective places and keep them there even when not in use as it is a pain to thread & rig them each and every time. I got a couple stantion clamps from WestMarine for the aft stantions and attached turning blocks to those. I used a regular jib/genoa pulley on the upper hound for the halyard and I have the coveted Highlander bowsprit for flying my spinnaker at the tack. For a few extra bucks you may wish to look at the BWY bowsprit that attaches to the anchor roller, it looks pretty good for the job. I have not solved the problem of sharing the genoa track with both genoa and spinnaker sheets yet and I may need a set of those easy cleats to do it. I have the Hyde spinnaker from JudyB and also got the sock and have found it very usefull even though I have only tried the spinnaker 3 times last season, yes I just got mine too. I hope to use it alot more next season, just have to beg mother nature for the right conditions. I have no pics at the moment and may have to go to the boat to take some if you really need them, I'll see what I can do. You'll be happy with the Hyde sail though. Try to get the sock too.

[c130king]

Terry,

Thanks for the info. Did you use 1/4" line for the halyard and tack line as well?

I am still debating the sock...I agree it might be a little easier but I have also heard it can be frustrating at times. And expense is an issue.

Sail plus either "turtle bag" or sock and then I have to add in the hardware (mast hound, halyard block, tack line block, small turning blocks and fairleads to lead halyard and tack line back to cockpit, cam cleat in cockpit for tack line, horn cleat for halyard, sheet blocks, and then over $150 in 1/4" line). Plus shipping for the sail from Hyde Sails. This could easily be over $900.

1/4" line for halyard and tack line would save some money and make for cheaper blocks.

Cheers,
Jim

[Doug W]

Timely post! Adding rigging to Galactica for my spinaker is my big project for the winter! Post pics as you do your mod!

Doug

[beene]

Hi
Couple things
- i would not use the stansions to attach your aft blocks to, cant handle the loads from the spin sheets
instead use the same track your genny blocks are on
in fact if you want to save money, just use those blocks, take the genny sheets out of the blocks and run your spin sheets through those blocks since you will not be flying both at the same time anyways
- 18 inches above the existing halyard block sounds good for your spin, use the same size rigging for that, ie blocks, shackle etc
- 1/4 inch line for the sheets is not enough imho, the spin takes quite the load when the wind picks up a bit due to her size and parachute design..... I use 3/8 - 5/16
- I would us the same size line for sheets, halyard and tack
- use the same size blocks that you have for your genny at the tack, halyard and cockpit gunwales
- consider getting a sock, they are not that expensive and they make a huge dif in terms of ease and control
- for the tack, the anchor roller can take the load, just attach a block there, works better if you have the bow sprit but heck, one thing at a time.....LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fm0i8F6 ... ata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EIyKco ... ata_player

Just be aware that this might happen.........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Bti3F ... ata_player

LOL

G

[robbarnes1965]

I can give you a couple pointers I discovered when doing mine last summer Jim. keep in mind the sail is light so light line is advisable, I think I used 1/4 inch. I also added a D shackle or some variant to the ends of the halyard, tack line, and sheets so that they could be left on deck and just shackled to the pulpit when not in use. it is easier to put the lines in their respective places and keep them there even when not in use as it is a pain to thread & rig them each and every time. I got a couple stantion clamps from WestMarine for the aft stantions and attached turning blocks to those. I used a regular jib/genoa pulley on the upper hound for the halyard and I have the coveted Highlander bowsprit for flying my spinnaker at the tack. For a few extra bucks you may wish to look at the BWY bowsprit that attaches to the anchor roller, it looks pretty good for the job. I have not solved the problem of sharing the genoa track with both genoa and spinnaker sheets yet and I may need a set of those easy cleats to do it. I have the Hyde spinnaker from JudyB and also got the sock and have found it very usefull even though I have only tried the spinnaker 3 times last season, yes I just got mine too. I hope to use it alot more next season, just have to beg mother nature for the right conditions. I have no pics at the moment and may have to go to the boat to take some if you really need them, I'll see what I can do. You'll be happy with the Hyde sail though. Try to get the sock too.

I looked everywhere on BWY for the bowsprit you mentioned. Where is it. I was curious to see it. Could you paste a link?

Rob

[Terry]

I looked everywhere on BWY for the bowsprit you mentioned. Where is it. I was curious to see it. Could you paste a link?
Rob

I am a bit tech challenged and cannot learn how to post a pic here, send me a standard e-mail address (not your site one) and I can send you a picture of the BWY prototype. They do not have it displayed on their site yet but they do have one and the picture I have I got from BWY. I would not go heavier than 5/16 on the lines and that could very well be the size I am using on all spinnaker lines. I did investigate using the genoa blocks on the genoa track but I have my genny on a furler with no place to park the sheets while using the blocks and winch for the spinnaker so I will use the stantion mounts and an easy cleat on the track and see how it works out. There are four large bolts holding that aft stantion down and the clamp fits right down on the base of it so the load is not high. I am confident that it will hold. Once you see the picture I send you will get an idea of how easy it could be to fabricate yourself. Anyone can send me an e-mail addess and I will respond with sending you the pic. Then someone more competent can post it here.

[Catigale]

Hey Jim

I realize I haven't used my spin in 4 seasons since my cruising is with 6 young admirals and never downwind

If you want to try mine next spring, let me know and ill bring it on one of my trips.

My risk...might have to get a spin rip fixed , vs your risk....getting shot down in defense of liberty,....

We'll call it even .....

[AlaskaMan]

It's not on the website yet. Also it's made for the M not the X.

[c130king]

Hey Jim

I realize I haven't used my spin in 4 seasons since my cruising is with 6 young admirals and never downwind

If you want to try mine next spring, let me know and ill bring it on one of my trips.

My risk...might have to get a spin rip fixed , vs your risk....getting shot down in defense of liberty,....

We'll call it even .....

My most signifcant risk is either 1) a bad paper cut, or 2) burning my tongue on coffee that is too hot, or 3) falling asleep at a meeting with some boring generals that like to hear themselves talk and getting whiplash from when my head falls back...

You just let me know when you can head down this way. Ann has already moved to the Magnolia State and into our new house so I will be a "geographic bachelor" sailing every weekend until my movers show up in early July.

[Catigale]

Nitrites in the Pentagon hot dog stand are pretty high too, I'm told

Good luck on the countdown...

[Judy B]

Hi
<<snipped>>
Just be aware that this might happen.........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Bti3F ... ata_player

LOL

G

the first two videos are great, but the last one is a good example of what can go wrong. I only watched it once, but it looked to me like he eased the tack line while reaching to me and that made for a rather sporting ride I could be wrong though, I didn't watch it really carefully. What do YOU all think? Read what I wrote below and see if you can figure it out.

(I editted the above paragraph because I inadvertantly was rude. I apologize, I didn't mean to be.)

Below are the basic techniques for flying a cruising chute (ACS - asymmetric cruising spinnaker)

Demystifying the cruising chute

Trimming


1. The cruising chute has two basic shapes:
1.1. sort-of-a-spinnaker shape
1.2. sort-of-a-genoa shape

2. To use as a spinnaker for running in light air:
2.1You will ease both lines concurrently: start easing the tack, then the sheet. The sail will rotate downwind and to the windward side, crossing the centerline and look more like a spinnaker than a genoa
2.2 As the sail rotates towards the bow, across the centerline, steer the boat slowly and gently to follow the chute.

3. To use as a genoa for reaching in light air
3.1You will tighten both llines: tighten the tack and the sheet to pull the sail back to a genoa-like shape.
3.2. Then steer the boat up to a reach.

Steering

1. Always trim the sail first, steer the boat second. Don't turn the bow faster than the luff of the
chute! (think: I am following the chute with the bow as I steering.)
2. Head up in the calms to keep the sail full. Sail deeper in the gusts to avoid being overpowered.

Launching

I know there are questions about how to launch.... here's the quick overview version in 100 words or less:
1. Prep all the lines for launching. Furl or drop the genoa.
2. Steer to a deep reach and let out the boom and mainsail appropriately, so you can hoist the ACS in the windshadow of the mainsail.
3. Launching: haul the tack line snugly out to the bow, then hoist the halyard all the way.
4. Then steer up a little higher to a broad reach and simultaneously trim the sheet to power up the ACS. As soon as the sail fills, you'll feel it tug in your hand. Immediately give the sheet a "big ease" to avoid being overpowered -- you can trim in again when you have a feel for the sail.
5. Voila, you're sailing with the ACS in "genoa-like mode".

Judy Blumhorst
Hyde Sails of Northern California

[Highlander]

It's not on the website yet. Also it's made for the M not the X.

If you have the same anchor roller it will fit an X or M & can be very easily adapted to any anchor roller . Its basically a knock - off of the 3ft bowsprit I designed & made for Beene, Terry & Gazman . bloody cheek of them




Here's the 3ft retractable bowsprit I made it does not interfere with the anchor roller & can be left on or retracted & will not interfere when using the anchor


J