Attaching forestay to chain plate

[Mojavewind]

Hello,

Just bought a 1985 Macgregor 25 and I am trying to figure out how the forestay attaches to the chain plate. I'm guessing I need to purchase some type of connector and a way to adjust the forestay

Currently, there is a thimble at the very end of the forestay, the forestay runs 6 inches and attaches to a corner of a 3x3x3 metal triangle. A section of shroud that runs to the mast connects to a second corner of the triangle. The chain plate consist of an upper hole and lower hole that are offset. The lower hole has a shackle which I think would be for the jib?

There is no turnbuckle or other device for adjusting the length of the shroud.

Any advice on how to connect the shroud to the chain plate would be greatly appreciated. Do I need something to adjust tension? What is the purpose for the triangle metal in the shroud?

Scott

[Steve K]

Hi Scott,

You are missing a turnbuckle is all. It will be the "jaw to jaw" type.
It attaches to the eye in the little short part of the forestay and the other end attaches to the upper/forward hole in the chain plate. This makes it possible to tighten up the whole rig, after hooking up the forestay.

You are correct that the shackle in the rear/lower hole is to pin the tack of the jib to the chain plate.

The metal triangle was part of the original mast raising system. The empty hole in it was to pin the mast raising pole to. The other end of the mast raising pole bolted to either the pulpit, or through a hole near the bottom of the mast.
These systems worked very well, but the mast raising pole was very long and difficult to store in the boat, or in your vehicle.
I thought of cutting mine in half and putting some kind of slip fit socket in the middle, so I could break it down.
My forestay needed replacement anyway, so I made a solid one (getting rid of the metal triangle altogether). I then added a padeye, just in front of the forward hatch where I now pin the tackle for the shortened pole.
Hope this makes sense for you........ let me know if you need clarification.

Noticed the "Mojavewind" moniker. Are you in the So. Cal. high desert, as I am?

Best Breezes,
Steve K
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Mojavewind]

Steve,

Thank you very much for your response. I found a turnbuckle in the cabin and I'm hoping it's for the forestay. Will be stepping the mast tomorrow morning. Should be interesting. That thing is huge!

We live in Summit Valley just to the south of Hesperia near Lake Silverwood. I'm hoping to get her on the water early Monday.

Where 'bouts on the desert on you "anchored"?

Scott

[Steve K]

Scott,
Pretty close.

South end of Hesperia, up close to Oak Hills.......... maybe 20-30 minutes from Silverwood.

I took my Xboat and my C-22 there a couple of times. I keep thinking I'll take the D up there when I get a chance.

Do you know what it costs to get in with the boat these days?

About Silverwood:
I always had a problem in the narrow part, in the center of the lake. (although I was very new to sailing at the time). The breeze seems to go around in a circle, right there. So, don't get discouraged, if the boat doesn't act right in that area.

Also, There's a guy over here with a little boat salvage, he runs from his house (looks like). I haven't been over there, except I drove by once. His little web site seems to have a lot of good old boat parts on it, for great prices. Every now and then, I will see him hauling an older sailboat down Main street towards his place. Last week he brought in one that had a really crusty bottom............ Anyway, here's the web site.
http://www.desertsailing.com/

Also,
Silverwood marina had a Ranger 33 in their marina, awhile back, (don't know why since 26 feet is the lake limit) that they were trying to get rid of on a lean sale. They wanted $2000. for it and talked like that was even flexible. I almost bought it, but couldn't find a way to get it moved cheaply enough. (didn't really look that hard though.
The boat was big, solid and in really good shape, but needed a good scrubbing, inside and out. It would be a great deal for someone, if it.s still there.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Mojavewind]

That's not far at all by desert mileage.

I sailed a Hobie 16 with by Dad at Silverwood in the 70's. We got wet alot. The winds really shift and swirl. I liked sailing on Big Bear Lake much better. It will be interesting to try Silverwood in something more stable. There are three sailboats in the slips there and I bet one of them is the boat your referring to. The entry fee for vehicle and boat is 20 dollars.

I'm having a heck of time figuring out how to rig the main sheet. I've got a block with a cam on the portside stern and a block on the starboard stern. My main sheet has two blocks attached, one with with a cam. The boat has a traveler and I'm guessing the the block with the cam attaches there, but not sure about this and where to rig to the boom. I've struck out trying to find a photo or diagram on the web that makes sense. The diagram that I've found doesn't show the traveler. This definitely is a learning experience.
Scott

[Steve K]

Scott,
Without actually seeing it, let me make a couple guesses.
The blocks on the stern sound like they may be for some kind of backstay adjustment. Or maybe........ how is your traveler adjusted, side to side?

My best guess for the mainsheet is yes, the block with the cam would mount to the traveler. The other block would attach to the boom. Is there a bale near the rear of (or even up to a few feet from) the boom.

On many older boats, the running rigging has been changed to suit the taste of the owner. Some of them don't make sense.

Here is a link to Harken. On this page you can click on items on the left (under "system links") to see examples of many different types of running rigging (mainsheet for example). Maybe this will clear up where some of your stuff hooks up. Or you may want to just set one of these examples up, with the hardware you have. I would suggest to, at least, have a 3 to 1 system for the mainsheet.

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/22-28cr.php

Let me know if this helps, or if you need something else....... always happy to share my, albeit limited, knowledge

Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Steve K]

Hey Scott,
I was just looking around on the web and found this;

http://www.floatmyboat.net/mainsheet.jpg

It referenced a Mac 25

So perhaps you have parts of two different systems on your boat

SK

[Mojavewind]

Steve

Yes, I think that's what has confused me.

I tried to step the mast with my wife's assistance. I quickly realized we're going to need to figure out a stepping system as the mast is too heavy for us to raise although I've watched some Youtube videos that make it look easy. I noticed that there is a a second winch on the trailer that is above the bow winch on the mast trailer support. I'm guessing that this winch is there to assist with the mast stepping and that I need something like a gin pole to make it work. Figuring that out will be the next challenge

Thanks again for your suggestions. Won't be able to get her in the water tomorrow, but I'm making progress.
Scott

[Steve K]

If the upper winch is high enough, you wouldn't need the gin pole. Just hook the halyard, or the forestay to the end of the winch cable (or strap) and try cranking it up. Once it"s up around 30 to 45 degrees, it becomes increasingly easier to raise the rest of the way.

BB,

SK

[Mojavewind]

Steve,

I am going to give that a try.

Looks like the lock pin hole for the keel has been damaged. Someone did a bad fiberglass job around the hole to keep it from leaking. What do you think the maximum wind speed would be for sailing without the the keel locked down?

Scott

[Steve K]

Hey Scott,
I missed your last post , re: wind speed and keel lockdown somehow.

The first swing keel boats didn't have a lockdown device. There fears (and rumors this had happened) that in a knock down, The keel would fold back up into the trunk, thereby raising the center of gravity enough to turtle the boat. My Catalina 22 did not have this lockdown feature at all.

No amount of speed in the water will cause the keel to raise any. The only thing that may would be an extreme knockdown.

Another thing is that these lockdown bolts and pins that I've seen, I don't think would hold a 500 pound keel in place, if the boat did roll over

BTW, When you're out sailing and you get some speed up and you start hearing what sounds like someone droning a very low note on a bass fiddle, coming from inside/under the boat; nothing to worry about.......... this is the keel cable singing. Sometimes loosening the keel winch a turn will quiet it down.

Best Breezes
SK

[Mojavewind]

Steve,

Thanks again. The information on the keel lock down is appreciated. I sure didn't want to have to work on one more thing before launching. I'm fixing the bow eye which had partially pulled through some rottenwood, but it didn't damage the glass other than widening the bolt holes a bit. Unfortunately I've got a busy schedule for the next two weeks, but I hope I can get her in the water after that. My wife and I had planned a bicycling trip down the coast from Huntington to San Diego next week. I love cycling, but you can bet my eyes will be on the sailboats as we travel. Perhaps someday I'll be able to sail that section! So, I may not be pestering you with any more questions for awhile.

In cycling I often sign off with "Tail winds" but now it is, "Fair winds"

Fairwinds,
Scott

[gedaggett]

In response to your keel lock down. I sail my M22 on lake Michigan and the lock down is necessity. I am often in 3 to 4 footers and the when the the boat goes up a steep wave the keel would pitch aft and then coming over the top it will slam forward. I would suggest if you are on a body of water where you are going to get waves don't go on a beat with 3 to 4 footers should you value the keel pocket staying intact and connected to the Hull. Fall off on bigger ways to keep that things swinging or just bring it up halfway so it cannot swing down and stays somewhat back. Just my opinion and experience. If you wanted a cheaper less invasive fixed you could get a couple of pieces of plate aluminum about 3 inches bigger than your opening where the Keel locking bolt is supposed to go. Screw it to the trunk and then drill a hole for the locking bolt to slide through. You should do one side then the other to make sure your keel locking hole in the keel matches up to both holes on the plates. You can then get a longer bolt and you are in business. It's a bit of a redneck remedy but could be done to look nice.

Gary

[Freedom77]

Maximum wind for sailing without keel down and locked is ZERO. Have been knocked down in our 22. If you get knocked down release the sheet and she will right. If for some reason you get a big gust and get knocked down the keel could swing up in to the trunk and over you will go. Also if keel smashes into trunk if could damage hull. We live near Lake Mead Nevada where wind can go from 0-60 in no time flat. I only remove lock bolt when I am ready to beach. I have sustained some slight damage to trunk by scraping and underwater mountain. Bent keel lock bolt. repaired damage with some fiberglass tape and resin. If you and Steve K ever get up this way let me know and I can give you some good advise on Lake Mead.
Hey GeDagget, What's this about rednecks. I resemble that remark
Fair Wind and Full Sails...

[gedaggett]

Hey Freedom77,

I grew up in West Virginia and transplanted to Illinois. So my Hillbilly Hijinks allows me to mention Redneck remedies.

Gary