Running and accessing wiring

[JohnCFI]

JT, No problem, that's probably one of the nicer things I've been mistaken for......

Cheers
John

[JohnCFI]

I have put a few bits in mine, rewired the lighting (moved the switch panel), VHF, FM/MP3 Player, hardwired my GPS 60, put in a 12V supply by the table, new Nav Lighting. but some of you guys have done some amazing stuff..

[Divecoz]

Wow Highlander it looks like a Discotec But That's meant to be a compliment..
Most here now are aware I was an Electrician most of my career.. I there by have more tools and apparatus than most for accomplishing the installation of electrical wiring.. Along the way ( 37 years) I learned a few tricks as well.
I found that "Flat Wire" pulls easier than round wire through / between the liner and the deck .. I have found as well that the #12 Silicon Yard Light wire seems to last for ever.. I separated the two conductors and then strip back about 6 to 8 inches of insulation.. this allows me a very pliable nose.. Then if I so desire I add as many additional wires as needed. I strip them back a couple more inches for each wire added. This way I am staggering the bulk of the wire away from the nose. I Do NOT ... tape the nose / the group of wires as a unit.. I tape each pair separately.. This gives me flexibility..No matter which device I feel is best suited be it rods or any number of fish "tapes" I gently feed the wire and pull gently on the Pull Wire / rod tape ..
Not allowing the conductors to twist or bunch up reduces the diameter or what your pulling and makes everything easier..
EITHER pull an additional 2 conductor or maybe better yet a pull string for later.. A little bit of bar soap or candle wax on the tip of the rods or tapes will make things easier and they are not messy like easy pull or dish soap, though in a pinch both those work well for making the wire itself a lot more slippery...
Running the bilge area ? Keep the wire up and out of the potential wet area.. Why ask for trouble later.. Keep in mind the voltage drop issue.
I suggest derating your cables by no less than 15% . That means #12 is only good for 17 amps and #14 is only good for about 13 amps..
Be it No/Ox or Penetrox or any other such compound, they all are your friend.. They all stop or at least reduce corrosion issues with the cables and the terminations. I crimp ALL my terminations.. I have numerous high quality pliers with the ability to crimp sta-cons.. I NEVER use them. I use a Ratchet Crimp-er with 4 dedicated crimp sizes.. Use the right sized st-con for the right wire.. crimp with the proper sized crimp-er.. I ALWAYS use No-Ox and I Always use shrink-tube.... You don't need much shrink tube.. an inch is most often... PLENTY.. I suggest you pay a little more for the Adhesive lined shrink tube... I Own a Heat Gun but you can even use the wife's hairdryer.. Take Your Time.. BEFORE you heat the shrink tube , give the connector a little tug. If...it comes off? YOU .. did something wrong.. It was NOT the machine.. just do it again and check that you are in fact, using the right sized wire terminal for the size wire your using, and that you crimped it using the proper "slot" ... IF you are buying sta-con kits? The very first thing you do is, throw those crappy cheap pliers in the GARBAGE!

[Boblee]

Run wires pretty well everywhere over the Mac and some are longer than they would need to be if the was an easy route but quite enjoyed the time spent laying around the boat nutting out how to do it.
A good stiff push wire is handy, did use an electrical snake but it was a bit too stiff and used the plastic joiners for floorboards as a push through, from memory the hardest bit was across under the hatch at the top of the ladder (very tight) but took 240v power cables right round the stern rather than have too tight a fit and just have the aerials and dc power through there.
Probably being a sparkie made it a little easier.

[RobertB]

I have done extensive wiring on my . Stringing wire is kind of like working on a puzzle where all the pieces look alike - just keep exploring until you find something that works. I use coat hangers and bailing/fencing wire - no fancy fish tapes here (OK, I am cheap )

Sometimes, I have needed to dig out stray peices of fiberglass and resin to clear a path. I also use terminal blocks to minimize wire runs (especially grounds). I fully second Divcoz recommendation to use a ratcheting crimper and seal termination (I use heat shrink and crimps with heat shrink sleeves waterproff terminals). West Marine sells an affordable ratcheting crimper.

Overall, the process requires patience and beer (lots of beer ).

[acmaui]

I am not worthy...you guys definitely have the electrical wire running process down to an art.
Between the tight gaps, the raw fiberglass knives seemingly cast around every corner of every access port I could find, and yes, I'm still trying to get the fiberglass splinters out of hands and arms, I just decided to take the cowards way out and focus on upgrades that improve sailing. Then again.....next summer will come and the itch will probably strike again, the wounds will have healed and been forgotten, and I'll find myself elbow deep in the dark fiberglass voids of Spindrifter.

[Ormonddude]

Personally I seen to many Crimps fail I am all for the heat shrink but Solder the connections Whenever possible - do yourself a favor pic up a really decent soldering Iron - I purchased one of these and its one of the best investments I have made - http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station ... ng+station just take the plastic protection off the tip and its ready to go LOL So many foolish people seem to leave it on and then think its broken

[Divecoz]

If you have seen crimps fail, The Operator did something wrong.. The wrong tool or the wrong size terminal..I always carried two or more sets of " Lineman's Pliers" Manufactured by both Klein and Ideal.. Ideal has a built in sta-con crimper , but its a One Size Fits all and it truly, ONLY fits #12 AWG.. For our general purposes, there are only 3 sizes of terminal's that we use #12, #14, and #16 . If they are insulated they are always color coded Yellow #12 Red #14 Blue #16..
If you like soldiering, more power to you.. Its laborious and messy and it can often provide a cold joint.. You must heat the barrel portion of the terminal to the same tempature as the wire...Thats easy to accomplish on #22 = maybe #16.. Personally, I would be amazed if that 1.5 MM tip properly heats the barrel of either #12 or #14 terminals..

Personally I seen to many Crimps fail I am all for the heat shrink but Solder the connections Whenever possible - do yourself a favor pic up a really decent soldering Iron - I purchased one of these and its one of the best investments I have made - http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station ... ng+station just take the plastic protection off the tip and its ready to go LOL So many foolish people seem to leave it on and then think its broken

[acmaui]

If you have seen crimps fail, The Operator did something wrong.. The wrong tool or the wrong size terminal..I always carried two or more sets of " Lineman's Pliers" Manufactured by both Klein and Ideal.. Ideal has a built in sta-con crimper , but its a One Size Fits all and it truly, ONLY fits #12 AWG.. For our general purposes, there are only 3 sizes of terminal's that we use #12, #14, and #16 . If they are insulated they are always color coded Yellow #12 Red #14 Blue #16..
If you like soldiering, more power to you.. Its laborious and messy and it can often provide a cold joint.. You must heat the barrel portion of the terminal to the same tempature as the wire...Thats easy to accomplish on #22 = maybe #16.. Personally, I would be amazed if that 1.5 MM tip properly heats the barrel of either #12 or #14 terminals..

Personally I seen to many Crimps fail I am all for the heat shrink but Solder the connections Whenever possible - do yourself a favor pic up a really decent soldering Iron - I purchased one of these and its one of the best investments I have made - http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station ... ng+station just take the plastic protection off the tip and its ready to go LOL So many foolish people seem to leave it on and then think its broken

25 years as a lineman....Klein good.

[Catigale]

When I put my stereo in with the Klein tool, it only worked during the day...strangely enough

I got in a German electrician who told me there was keine Klein Nacht music.......

[Divecoz]

eine kleine Cat eine kleine

[Ormonddude]

Seen them fail dozens of times frankly I dont care if you used gods own crimping tool its bare copper in a aluminum tube in a salty wet environment Copper turns green to black and the aluminum turns from shiny to white powder and its failed, with a good iron it literally takes seconds per connection and it will work forever. I have also seen were even after i cut out the failed connection and then Stripped the wire the copper was so black even under the sheathing insulation I had to carefully sand it before i could solder it and repair the connection (see it all the time on bilge pumps) if they soldered it and used heat shrink that Moisture intrusion Never would have happened.

[kmclemore]

I'll just chime in... I solder *every* connector or join. Even 'crimp on' connectors get soldered, too. Never had one fail yet.

[DaveB]

I use Liquid tape, Even(I solder *every* connector or join) needs protection in salt water ).
Those who have the MacX lamp shade wireing should rewire with a outer caseing with Gauge 16 wire or less depending on your elect. needs.
Wireing on my Mac.X is 18 gauge or less,causeing deep draw from battries.

Dave

I'll just chime in... I solder *every* connector or join. Even 'crimp on' connectors get soldered, too. Never had one fail yet.

[Divecoz]

Must have changed the gauge of wire used with the M ? Mine was #14 awg..
Crimp or Solder.. each to his own.. We ( Industry Wide ) crimp #22 = 750 MCM.. Big Issue is to remember No/Ox paste and Shrink Tube.. Liquid tape seals really well.. Shrink tube is a lot easier to remove should you so desire..
BTW Connectors are Not Aluminum.. Its a composite metal..