Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

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mcbirdman
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by mcbirdman »

Y. B. Normal.

Nope not normal. Above normal people know about gyros. You sir know about the "beating" so you make 4 speaking up. What an A.B. Normal amount of intelligence I feel here....... lol

Well, I can tell you that the alluminum sheath goes all the way up to mast forestay. If it is say a close to 20' furler the upper say 15' runs sollid down into this firs 1/2 roller bearing thing. Then you can see the second half of the bearing and the alluminum then continues down to the rope/winch roller that attatches onto the bowsprit. I know that my boat has two head sails so I am not sure but think it is the front one.

I cut and pasted a side photo of my rigging on the boat and did a quickie virtual setup. Note - I copied the mast laying down on the boat and you can still see it there but the dimensions standing up are kept the same size when rotated into setup so size is accurate. You can see how long the alluminum sheath is and where the double bearing is... about 1/3 up the alluminum tubing. Cable from forward maststay runs through the entire alluminum tube. I just cant see how I could put a sail in the slotted tubing since that black double bearing is in the way. Notice the two pushbuttons that can release the tubing from itself. Was hoping this was common.

Image

Thanks guys... this is wierd. jtm
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by Catigale »

I have seen that furler setup somewhere but my CRJS has flared up...I'll Have to see if I can remember after a bottle of monkey shoulder...
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Whipsyjac
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by Whipsyjac »

The first thing that I think of is a furler for an Asymmetrical Spinnaker. Spinnakers aren't attached along the entire luff. Did the boat come with any sails?

Never been in a rotary wing, my favorite flight in a fixed was a float plane ride over the Coast Mountains in a Beaver, so I suppose my intelligence is B Lo Nrml.

Willy
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by Tomfoolery »

That baby radial engine (on their web site) is super cute, but I can't imagine it's not super pricey at the same time. :(

I bought a book at the school (elementary) book fair about helicopters some time in the early 60's, and it included the Pitcairn (don't know which one, though). I still remember it, and still think they're cool. Very unique look, with the open tower the rotor mounts to, and the support wires for the blades. 8) I wanted to be a chopper pilot then, and Whirlybirds was my favorite show (Bell 47, wooden rotor blades, and piston engine - a thousand moving parts attempting to do you bodily harm). But I never went in that direction, and fixed wing (C150/152's, C172's, and some Pipers, plus a little time in a Robinson) was as far as I got. Sure would be fun to get into ultra-lights or autogyros, though a used 172 may be cheaper in the end.


Image

Are you sure that 'double bearing' doesn't slide up the foil? That would make it pretty standard as roller furlers go.

Image
mcbirdman
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by mcbirdman »

umm Nope Willy. Just your post is below Normal. But only because He posted just before you so sorry. However, you have flown in a float plane and I haven't even done that. And you knew the boat would fly so you get points...plus we have like 4 above normal posts and youre hanging out talking the talk so... I guess that is 5 now?

thanks tkanzler, that is helpful. and you know airplanes and radial engines so I am thinking you are right about that bearing.
he he. I have a yamaha watercooled 120 on mine because the radial is around 18k.

But what I see in the sketches you kindly posted, I see that maybe the groove in the pipe is to key this bearing and so I'll see if it slides. I grabbed it before and it didn't want to go so I thought it didn't move. Well it is outside in the snow so Im going to warm it or spray a little wd 40 by it and see if I can move it.

Didn't want to break it, it seemed sollid but I am thinking based on what I see it likely does move and might be stuck only because of the water. The height it is doesn't make it seem helpful so I think it HAS to move. I'll let you know if I can loosen it up so it works like your photo. I think it has to move.
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by seahouse »

Mcbirdman - that bearing assembly should slide freely, with lots of clearance, up and down the foil tube without any friction. While WD-40 might do the trick if you’re lucky, you might find that the aluminum extrusion has been distorted or kinked (oval?) at that point and needs to be straightened.

So did you buy the Yammy engine crated, or did you remove it from a sled?

-Brian. :wink:
mcbirdman
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by mcbirdman »

Hi Brian, I had it removed from a sled in Colorado. There is a guy that does conversions to make the engine accept a rotax redrive by putting the engine in a cage so to speak. The cool thing is that it has the alternator, electric start, dry oil sump and more in a package in the 140-160 lb range and 120hp. It is small and from what I heard quite similiarly bulletproof as rotax has become.

However, instead of paying 14K for a modified rotax snowmobile engine, we pulled this I think for around 2500.00 for the engine. Way more affordable and it has been getting seen in more and more aircraft...

Brian, I think tkanzler is right so I didn't even go out and check tonight. I almost did but I just can't see any reason to think it would NOT slide as he has shown. I think all I have to do is loosen it up and it will move just as he suggested. What threw me is that the two pieces had two independent rotating bearings. I thought maybe the alluminum was in two pieces. Now I see it probably isn't and as soon as I can get out on the ladder I'll work it a bit.

Whipsyjac I have what seems like the original sales in pretty decent shape. 2 head sails and the main. One of the head sails had the bronze like spring clips on it. I am just wondering a bit still if I would just be attatching the top of the sail to a halyard to raise it and only having the bottom leading edge only attatched to bowsprit stretched tightly. I have been just thinking it would attatched along the full length of the alluminum furler sheathing. I guess maybe not.

Thank you all for your input because I think that is one big mystery to me that now makes sense. I think I will just keep putting questions on this thread as I progress and get stuck or solve problems. There are certainly going to be things that have to be fixed before it gets to a lake. Again, thanks, I am having fun, I hope you all are too.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by Tomfoolery »

mcbirdman wrote:I have a yamaha watercooled 120 on mine because the radial is around 18k.
Yeah, I'm not surprised. I can buy a well used 150 or 152 for $18k. But a radial is uber cool no matter how you slice it. And you can't fold up the wings of a 152 and trailer it. I loooove to have an autogyro.

If you don't mind, what's the typical finished cost for one of those, with a flat four?

Image

The sail's tack fitting goes to the little shackle, with the blue poly line going through it.

Image

The head goes to the left-hand part of the swivel (lower, with the mast up), and the halyard to the upper. Only the upper should be on a bearing. The lower should rotate with the foil as you wind the furler, as seahouse said. The bolt rope of the sail should fit a groove in the foil, so the whole mess rotates except the upper half of the swivel, which has the halyard connected. There's a bump on the bottom (in your pic) of the upper part of the swivel which should have some hardware through the hole, like some sort of shackle. Or perhaps just loop the halyard through and tie a bowline. The lower part might need a short pendant to the head of the sail, as per the pic I posted in my last post.

That type of furler is the most common. What's on most of our Macs was new to me when I got it. The type with it's own halyard that's part of the furler, I mean.
mcbirdman
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by mcbirdman »

tkanzler

Thank you. It is much clearer and I think that is exactly what is happening. For me, I noticed one of the pieces rotated and the way it felt there was a bearing in the center and I could see one in the outside end. Double bearing. I figured the one end wouldn't spin because it was tied to mast and other end loose. The way you wrote I envisioned it much better and that has to be it. Just surprised that the top halyard and bottom stretched is the leading edge. I figured there would be attatchment points along the whole length or it would be in a track to keep it flat. Thanks for explaining.

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Here is the single place at the airport

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Photos taken during a test flight. I made them into a poster
to keep me inspired through all of this. This is just a snapshot of my poster.


On the gyro, I don't really know how much all the parts cost total. I can tell you there is nothing typical about prices because there are only a few in the world flying today. You can't just go buy one and if someone has one they most likely had to build it themselves because I can't see how you could pay someone to fabricate a project such as this with any kind of accuracy the labor required. I have bought when I got good deals on parts, and very rare you might find a project you can buy to give yourself a head start. It has taken a long time but I have saved significantly. If someone gave me 18-20k (like for a used 152) I couldn't build it new without being in the hole mainly because of the time factor. I have been building this for several years and the time investment solving each problem, fabricating each part and making sure it all fits together is a major commitment. There are a lot of people who start them and then give up. This isn't really about parts cost, it is about fabrication and drive. The really big question is how much is one worth? The parts cost is there but how much would a person pay for a flying motorcycle? A design that holds 29 world records, one of such plains now on permenant display at oshkosh? Sadly I guess not much. I think it is a labor of love but who knows.....

On the Little Wing Website Ron has a basic airframe without rudder, gear, horiz stab etc. for 3500.00. That was the price put on there for several years. Problem is that although it is just a few hundred dollars worth of metal for the major piece - it seems he can't pay someone enough to make it worth the time.

On my single place I have a 2180cc vw engine. It has a special crank, special nose bearings to be able to swing a prop, duel ignition (2 plugs in each cylinder, one electronic and one fired by magneto). It has electric start and a special case that mounts to the back of the engine containing the starter, magneto mount, and flywheel mounted generator. The mount has tangs that allow rubber mounting to firewall mounted engine mount same as a/c engines for isolation/vibration. I think that engine is around 7-8k as it sits. With the redrive it brings it up to around 9700 I think. Then there is about maybe 500 worth of metal in frame and 1k in hydrolic brakes/wheels. Rotor head is around 1500 I think and rotor blades around 1700. I did this all in pieces so it wasn't one big wad being coughed up at once. Plus there is that thing about doing something different....

I could have gone and bought a plane, but then I wouldn't have learned all I have, wouldn't have as much to dream about and wouldn't have the unique experiences I have had so I think it is fine. Especially looking forward to completing the two place as sharing your dreams with others is part of the fun. It is not quite as much fun flying by myself.
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by mcbirdman »

Yep, it slides now. I mostly was twisting it but when I shoved it it didn't want to move. Yesterday we had a bit of a thaw and now it slides up and down the sheath just as you said. Still weird only top and bottom stretched tight leading edge but...if it is fine, its fine.

I think the next thing I need to do is figure out how the now missing sink/stove was supposed to slide on the seat. Didn't know if there is a track or something. I think I would like to make that long port bench fold open a few inches wider for sleeping so maybe when I make the stowable kitchen box I can make incorporate them. Maybe I'll call it a track in the box or trackn a box ha ha.

Seeing in the literature I understand with the kitchen sliding under port seats - why there is no hatch cover like starboard side.
However if that is the reason I could still put a seat hatch cover even further back by boat motor transom. I could access the fittings that need repair and beef up backside of the motor mount.

The thing I would like to do is make the cabinet fit the hole under the seat so as to not waste a lot of room. Maybe with the hull being rounded I could run a back rest or shelf or something to make use of this curved wallspace.

This is a photo before we cleaned it out but just for reference.
Image
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by Tomfoolery »

mcbirdman wrote:Still weird only top and bottom stretched tight leading edge but...if it is fine, its fine.
Isn't there a slot in the foil for the sail's bolt rope? Can't see one in your pics, but it could be on the other side.
mcbirdman
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Post

Post by mcbirdman »

Yes you are right. That slot I talked about originally I thought unusable because it looked like double bearing black piece didn't slide up the foil. (now I know the name). If bearing didn't slide how was I going to feed the sail into a slot on both sides of the bearing unless the foil split in 1/2. Now I see the bearing DOES slide ok and was just stuck. part of the bearing rides in the slot to keep it from rotating like you said. That makes it possible to slide the sail in at the bottom so I'm sure you are right on that too. I think it is really neat to have furling, I am excited about that.

I noticed two slotted tracks both sides of the deck starting even with the cabin and going back a foot. I have found no hardware to know what that is about but I am not real worried about that. I hope when I figure out the best way to raise the mast I can see what should be there. I may just post photos of it if weather warms a little. As long as I know furler works, I think we are sitting pretty good.

I also want to do the gas shocks for pop top, replace the missing galley as well as check rigging. I know the wood back pieces of almost all through deck fittings need to be replaced. From what I am reading it would be smart to caulk at that time. I know the inside painted cabin gets damp. Trying to decide if I could put outdoor carpeting mounted on 1/4 insulation board. If I could make it removable it would look more finished and feel softer. It could hold the moisture long enough so it doesn't just drip and when daytime comes it could evaporate again. Could be removed and powerwashed or stowed when boat is stored. I just like the idea of a little padding and texture, preferring it to slippery white surfaces.
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Re: Newport in Michigan / Boat and Autogyro Builder First Po

Post by mcbirdman »

Well, I am back again. After another summer gone all I can say is that I wished I got to take the boat out this summer. I have been too busy with a complicated life but some progress has been made. I came across a bunch of photos while searching venture Newport 23. I was surprised at the dirty boat photo with a sprayer and the blue dustpan with black rubber lip and wait.... is that my blue but in the background ???? Sure enough so I clicked on the link source and here I am. I will try to get photos but I did caulk the whole boat seams as directed with the good stuff. I repacked the windows also and it seems to be dry in there. I sure was surprised. I put a movable bimini top on it and can leave the rear cabin open even in rainstorms.

I lengthened the V berth for a long single person to enjoy. The idea was that a hinge was placed on the back seat of the table area so the padded bridge could fold up to use the potty. What is different is that the width of the padded plank is enough to rest on the centerboard but not go all the way against the starboard side. I left enough room so two med size suitcases or sailbags could be stored and not have to be moved when lifting the bridge. When the eating table area is set up for sleeping or lying back when cruising - the whole side is open and accessible to store the boom or crawl about.

I added a place to store the rudder on the trailer under the boat out of the sun. I added carpeted boat supports on the trailer on both sides of the keel. Not only for support but it guides the boat on keeping the keel centered in order for me to have added a permanent steel ladder on the trailer so I can step up and into the cockpit. The ladder is SO helpful but would not be possible without the keel centering on the trailer.

I welded square tubing offset about 8 inches from trailer fender to winch as sort of a shelf that will hold bikes, the weatherproof trunk and provide a step up for better reach during setup. I mounted a deck winch to raise the mast easier and some steel tubing on the back of the boat to allow the mast to rest while traveling and a higher position for mast raising. I put wheels on upper portion to allow mast to roll forward or backwards effortlessly when trying to mount the base of the mast to the maststep. I have mounted mini shelves which need to be carpeted to hold the radio, transceiver, keys, etc. I wanted to run the new electric panel with converter, USB, solar charger and make battery store up in front v berth.

I painted woodgrain on the exterior walls of cabin that contain the portholes. My kids still don't believe it isn't wood. I guess that is good. I lowered motor mount as it was almost unusable for my motor. So far I have motored it and had a large jib up in light winds before we put it away last summer. I put the gas struts on the cabin pop up and it is Awesome. I also put a strut on the rudder as I couldn't believe how hard it was to keep rudder from floating up as I was trying to tie it in the down position. I have aspirations to make a metal mount to actually carry a couple bikes on the bow for upcoming trips. I painted the topside two tone white with tan accents to protect the aging boat.

I don't have the photos handy to post and if I remember right it takes a bit of work to post photos here.

I also got a call from a guy I met a few months ago that graduated with my sister. He was looking up photos for his dad because he claims his father just bought a Newport Venture. He wanted to come over on Monday to look at the project and get some ideas. For me that isn't too hard. Trying to get the time is the hard part. I think it would be great to have someone nearby to have contact with.

I bought back one of the three gyros we built as two seaters this summer. It was too good of a deal to pass up and I wished I knew it was going to be sold before it happened. Now I have the single place as seen in this thread, the first two place and now another one at about the same stage of build. So I guess I made progress but at the cost of being able to take time off to sail. Right now we are trying to finish up the hull of my fathers speedboat he built in the 60's so that we may be able to take the boats on another adventure like I did years before on the other boat I built, a Weekender from Stevenson Projects 1981.
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