Cautionary Tale, CDI Furler

[Dubraque]

Hello, All. I'm Nabil Dubraque, a powerboater and sailor for many years, though my sail experience has been in a much smaller West Wight Potter 15. Last fall Lucy and I bought a 2005 26M which we keep in a slip on the lower Potomac. We had the boat in our dirveway for winter modifications.

While raising the mast to begin seasonal preparations, my CDI furler fell apart. Whoever had assembled and installed it had omitted the two cotter pins at the turnbuckle, and it had mostly unscrewed since we received the vessel last fall. Fortunately there was no damage, and two cotter pins fixed the problem, however it could have been a disaster had it failed while we were sailing.

I'm sure this is a rarity A new buyer is more likely to assume the furler was properly assembled as did I, and not disassemble it for inspection, though a lesson learned is not to take such things for granted. The moral to this story is, even if the boat is brand spanking new, inspect with a jaundiced eye anything the failure of which can be a safety issue.

We had a lot of fun making modifications to Lucy E. this winter, and will post some soon for the pleasure and amusement of all. Now back to bottom painting.

Nabil

[Paul S]

One thing is not to assume anything with a Mac. Our M looked like it was built by drunk monkeys...and the accessories supplied by the dealer were never installed or fitted (the few we got) including the roller furler. A handful of nylock nuts were not tight enough and a couple were lost. The motor linkage was not assembled correctly...lots of drama as long time members of the board remember.

Check your steering linkage on the inside..make sure it is free. Ours were bound up (too tight) and could barely move the steering wheel. Check the cables to the motor are not hitting the linkage as well.

Check out my www below for mods I have done on our M.

I have done a lot more than is there. I have to take a lot more pics and update it.

Paul

[ManassasPaul]

Ahoy fellow Manassasean, good to see someone else from my hometown, anyways I just bought an older Mac/Venture 25 and I am hoping to have it in the water next weekend.

Cheers,

Paul

[mike]

While raising the mast to begin seasonal preparations, my CDI furler fell apart. Whoever had assembled and installed it had omitted the two cotter pins at the turnbuckle, and it had mostly unscrewed since we received the vessel last fall. Fortunately there was no damage, and two cotter pins fixed the problem, however it could have been a disaster had it failed while we were sailing.

I am fanatical about the forestay turnbuckle... mine had cotter pins, but there have been reports that even with cotter pins installed, the turnbuckle can gradually loosen (if the cotter pins don't stick out enough to prevent rotation) and eventually shear through the pins. So, it might be overkill, but my turnbuckle is wrapped with seizing wire. This prevents it from turning at all, and eliminates the shearing scenario possibility of the cotter pins.

--Mike

[Sloop John B]

Timm Miller's mast came down and hit the mast crutch (very good luck) a few years ago. Dealer neglected to insert pins. I think he got a new mast out of the deal.

Good idea about checking situation. Just remove the large thru pin that goes through the grey plastic and shove everything up to see.

[Andy26M]

My CDI FF2 did not have the cotter pins in the turnbuckle when it was brand new, either. Luckily we noticed it when the dealer taught me how to rig the furler as part of delivery. Instead of putting in cotter pins, though, I used stainless steel split-rings.

Seizing wire wouldn't be a bad idea, I'll probably do that once I finally get the rig adjusted exactly the way I want it - after all last summer putzing with it I still never quite got the weather helm balance exactly where I want it.

- AndyS

[Sloop John B]

What does seizing wire look like and how does it work? Do you put it through the 'holes'?

[Andy26M]

Seizing wire is just wire that you can wrap and twist tightly without it breaking. You put it through the drilled hole in a bolt or nut and then twist it. It performs much the same function as a cotter pin but with no slop or wiggle (assuming you wrap/twist it tightly).

- AndyS

[SPC Paul]

I used quite a bit of that wire in the army. We called it lacing wire, and it worked very well. I've yet to find anything quite like it at a hardware store, though.

Jared

[Andy26M]

I just Froogled "seizing wire" and got a whole lot of hits.

I'm sure West Marine and others of their ilk carry it. You'll want monel or marine grade so ti doesn't rust.

- AndyS

[ALX357]

i'd be interested to see if anyone has a caveat or objection to this method of pinning the turnbuckle. I loop a medium sized ring-ding thru the turnbuckle body side, then thru the screw's hole, one for the upper and one for the lower screw. It's somewhat a trick the fiirst time to get it to thread and set freely, but after that it becomes alot easier to unthread it from just the screw, leaving it on the turnbuckle side, and after adjusting the turnbuckle, re-thread them thru the screws. Although the ring-ding can be removed by hand, there doesn't seem to be any way for the screws (threaded turnbuckle rods) to work loose from the ring-dings by their own rotation. Try it and see before you raise the mast. ...Requires no tools, only the same amount of dexterity, and leaves the turnbuckle compact and without sharp edges that might get caught and strip out regular cotter pins. Besides the cotter pins have a very limited life, being worn out after just a few bendings, whereas the ring-dings will perform as usual for years.

[Catigale]

Lets face it

No method of securing the cotter pin on a furler is complete without a monthly pull the pin, push the furler up, and inspect.

[kmclemore]

Look for the wire at automotive performance shops. I wire lots of items in the motors I've built - flywheel bolts, mains, cam retention plates, etc... I use stainless Aircraft Locking Wire (aka 'Safety Locking Wire')... get the proper pliers, though, as it makes life a lot easier working with it.


And here's a sheet of tips on how to do it properly too.

[Greg]

I purchased our boat used and checked the furler (thanks to a good description from this web site and Duane) before sailing it. I found the turnbuckle had backed all the way out and the cotter pins were starting to shear.
I used electric fence wire as seizing wire for the roller furler by threading it though the eyelets, twisted it snug, then looped it around the turnbuckle, twisted it tight and stuffed the final twist inside the turnbuckle. Now the turnbuckle is secured and can't loosen. I bought a few spools of this fence wire from Lowes on clearance a few years ago and I have found it durable and doesn't rust or corrode.

Greg

[Newell]

I have used what alx 357 uses, i.e. medium ring dings. I used to loosen and retighten my turnbuckle on every outing, ring dings work better for this than siezeing wire in my opinion.

Newell
96X Fast Sunday