Honda control replacement

[argonaut]

I've seen several engine control replacements in the "mods" section, but they don't say what they did with the idiot lights (if there were any).

An "in the pedestal" smaller control would be nice.

My honda BF50 has an overtemp and an oil light on the control.
If you replace the control do you just discard that wiring?

[Richard O'Brien]

I would recommend keeping all the idiot wires intact. If you can't find suitable replacements immeadietly, you'll at least have the connectors ready. Many internal controls require individual devices. For example: mercs have an ignition on their outside control box, but you need to purchase a push to choke ignition switch if you use the Uflex B184 control. Yamaha has a separate low oil buzzer for their internal mount control. in some cases you can dismantle the original control box and use the lights or buzzers inside,creating your own bezels, and backing plates. In other cases find something that works, and has the right voltage and amperage. You might need an electrician, but mostly you need patience , or so I'm reminded. These warning devices are important to keep. I think like Moe, that we need to start a motor forum here, or at least a long running thread. Good luck.[/quote]

[mike]

Our boat has a Honda 50. The original owner had an older 50hp motor (which he owned prior to buying the 26x) installed at first, then a few years later got the Honda 50. The control is not Honda... I suspect it was the one originally installed with the older motor, and they just adapted it to the Honda rather than installing a new one.

Anyway, my idiot lights are mounted in the pedestal. See this page:

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin ... record=227

That's a mod for my autopilot install, but on the top photo, if you look at the 7:00 position of the wheel's hub, you can see the two lights in a square black housing. I assume this is a factory part, as it doesn't look like it was ripped out of a control unit. I also have a buzzer inside the pedestal.

--Mike

[argonaut]

I like the idea that motors be made a separate board. They are a world of their own.
At least I know it can be done... Mike, your's looks a lot like what I'd like, with the control on the stbd pedestal top.
This is a Uflex control that looked like what I'm looking for:

Uflex control

My Honda control also has a keyswitch/killswitch, so I'd have to move that to the pedestal too.
Richard I think I need a choke control too. Good idea to keep the wires regardless!
Thanks!

[Joe 26M Time Warp]

Honda makes a kit for converting from the standard side mount ZW5-621
that allows those components to be flush mounted.
http://www.honda-marine.com/catalog/ml. ... tchMsc.htm
It's just the mounting plate & labels but it's less than $30.

[argonaut]

Joe, U R tha MAN!
That's really cool, it looks like I can use the indicators from the side control with this bezel and order a new honda internal mount control & cables for the pedestal.
Gotta figure out what kind of cables I need & how long.
Again THANKS!

[wscottno]

I'm looking at a cable replacement, anyway, for my BF-50. Has anyone got experience with converting to the flush mount controls? More specifically, is this a project suitable for the less than expert 26X tinkerer?

[Joe 26M Time Warp]

Okay does anyone know what differences there are between the two Honda flush mount controls;

24800-ZW7-V51
BF25 Remote-BF225 Panel/Flush Mount ControlS Series
Suggested Retail: $149.99

and the

06240-ZW7-U00
BF25 Remote-BF225 Premium Panel/Flush Mount Control
Suggested Retail: $266.00

The write up on Honda Accessories dosen't include the most critical aspect to me, what are the dimensions??? It also gives no justification as to why the premium model is so much more expensive.
Anyone?
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[wscottno]

Good point, Joe. I can't find anything that speaks to the merits of either unit, other than cost. In addition, let me ask the age old 26X question - what's the current thinking on the best motor control cable set to use for the Honda 50 on the 26X? I got some good answers to that query a few months ago, but I'm unable to find it in the archives now. Seems like the capacity to handle the ugly bend at the transom drives the answer. Second, will any cable work with the Honda controls? Third, do some of the experienced folks know the optimum cable length to use? I've been advised to duplicate the installed length. But, that's the installation I'm having trouble with - I'm concerned that I'll duplicate the problem.

[Joe 26M Time Warp]

My plan is first to find the most compact Honda (or Teleflex) flush mount control and then arrange it in the most comfortable position for me to reach, whether sitting or standing.

Most of the pics I've seen of other installations have the control mounted on the flat lexan panel even though that slightly angled panel causes the cables to make a tight turn imeadiately below the control in order to be routed down the tube.

Inspired by the "zero clearance" VHF mic installation pictured below, I plan on having a virtually straight run of engine cables down the tube from the control.

If that means cutting, modifing, or replacing the lexan panel, so what? It's got to be one of the easiest parts of the whole boat to modify.

Next I was disappointed in the "professional" installation on our first boat because they used the 3300 Universal control cables rather than the 3300 Tfxtreme. The dealer told me he only uses the universal ones because they hold up longer. I believe the size of the engine well area on the 26M was designed for cables with a minimum turning radius of 4", not 8" like the universal ones I had originally.

I plan on having a slightly cleaner headroom installation in the rear main berth as a result the reduced turn radius, but the real improvement I'm after is routing the engine controls and all engine wiring from the port side of the engine rather than walking (and tripping) all over them on the starboard.

Besides having a clearer transom walkway and cleaner look, I'm convinced I'll be able to tilt the motor totally out of the water while sailing, instead of dragging it because I'm afraid of bending the cables too much.

[Andy26M]

Now Joe has got me curious. I have to go look at my boat in detail - I have a Honda BF50 on a 26M and I have all cables to port with no trip hazards at all to starboard - it is a straight clean shot to the swim ladder. I have also always raised my engine totally clear of the water for sailing, anchoring, and storage with no cable/control problems - so I wonder if I have been overstressing anything and setting myself up for imminent failure...

- AndyS

[Joe 26M Time Warp]

Hey Andy,
Show us some pics of your engine cables if you can, sounds like what I'm trying to do.