tkanzler wrote:
But to your issue, I'd suggest you cut the forestay loose using the MRS if you have one, back the mast back slightly, adjust some predetermined amount, and put the mast back and check. Rinse. Repeat as needed.
I'd rather not release the forestay if I don't have to. Not until I also figure out a winching system to crank it those last two inches. It's really hard to do.
tkanzler wrote:
There are also tools you can use, under load, made from a Vice Grip. Lotta force possible with Vice Grips. And there are other methods, too, including a simple tool with a pair of pins to engage the male and female portion and apply force.
Yeah, this what what I was envisioning.
Whipsyjac wrote:Some late boats came with an adjuster. It can easily be made. A metal pipe or bar with a couple 3/16 machine bolts for pins. Put one pin in the shroud adjuster you want to change and the other in the shroud you're not. That will give you leverage off the fixed and attached shroud. Ie. To adjust the upper put a pin from your tool into the adjuster on the lower shroud for a fixed pivot point.
Hey that's brilliant! Of course!
That's what I'm going to do!
BOAT wrote:
If you must do this with the mast up you can also use a piece of wood stick with two screws in it. (I'm surprised any of the older boats have these - I would have figured you guys all for turnbuckles).
It is practical to replace Johnsons with turnbuckles? They'd have to be the right length, and the adjusters would have to be detachable. I can't remember if they are. 'course turnbuckles aren;t nearly as strong as Johnsons....
Paulieb wrote:Really!? So they should be like guitar strings?
Well, yeah. Most standing rigging is supposed to be under tension to approximately 10% of its breaking strength. It's a couple hundred pounds.