Mac Bump
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Ken Smith
bumps the old way
If you trailer a lot then you know what a pain the winch can be. I got a bigger winch and put it on the same way as the old winch and it cranks the mac up with ease. The winch has two different ratio type gears and I don"t even use the larger set.
Ken
Ken
- argonaut
- Captain
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:23 pm
- Location: '97 26X, Yammy 40 4s, Central Fla.
I might add that your ability to perform the "bump" will depend on what your boat's bottom is painted with. If you only have a slick barrier coat, this may work for you.
The stuff on mine is virtually the same consistency as tar and as yet my boat's never slipped into position as described.
Your mileage may vary...
The stuff on mine is virtually the same consistency as tar and as yet my boat's never slipped into position as described.
Your mileage may vary...
Ablative bootm paint
argonaut -
I have ablative bottom paint on mine, too - it is rough and dull after being in the water for a few weeks. I can only do the "bump" if I have soap or liquid rollers on the bunks - without something to provide a little lube, my boat may as well be welded down where it lands, no amount of "bumping" will move it one iota.
- AndyS
I have ablative bottom paint on mine, too - it is rough and dull after being in the water for a few weeks. I can only do the "bump" if I have soap or liquid rollers on the bunks - without something to provide a little lube, my boat may as well be welded down where it lands, no amount of "bumping" will move it one iota.
- AndyS
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Frank C
I use the same float-n-winch method as ALX and ericorville. It actually takes only one minute .... creep up-ramp by one foot, turn a half-crank, another foot up-ramp, another half-crank. Takes only three or four feet to settle the boat onto the aft bunk. But of course you need two persons, a ramp driver and another at the winch. (I stay dry by balancing across the rear bumper and the tongue).ALX357 wrote:If you're not in a hurry to drive the boat up the ramp and others are not waiting for the ramp, you can avoid the "Mac Bump" by winching the boat up to the stop in the water as usual with the trailer underwater, and then pulling it out a bit, then winching up the slack, and pulling out some more, . . .
Whatever method you choose, it IS IMPORTANT to get the bow tight into the winch block, ESPECIALLY IF you still have a single axle on your trailer (as is mine). These outboard motors are awfully heavy to remain even three inches aft of the axle balance point. Leaving the boat aft from the winch block increases trailering stress as the motor hangs aft on a longer hull span, and it REDUCES your tongue weight, and it makes for a tail-wagging tow.
- ALX357
- Admiral
- Posts: 1231
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:09 am
- Location: Nashville TN -- 2000 MacGregor 26X, Mercury two-stroke 50hp
the strap does not slip or stretch, but as mentioned at the start of this thread, the angle of the boat, while floating above the trailer, is different than that of it at rest on the bunks, and it is this change of angle that produces the extra length between the prow of the boat and the nose stop on the trailer. the distance between the winch and the bow eye of the boat remains the same, and that is the problem, -- it needs to decrease to keep the prow seated in the nose stop -- thus the repeated winching, or bump, needed. note the bump should be followed by winching up the slack produced, that is the whole point. It seems alot more sensible to just do the winching without the bumping.
- cuisto
- First Officer
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:56 am
- Location: Lake Huron Canada '99X merc 50 bigfoot
do it backwards
A friend of mine has a bayliner 24 and had a problem getting the boat centered on the trailer. what he did to correct this is to have a ratchet straps over the stern to the trailer and while still in the water he would lift the trailer up to the boat and drive off. worked every time..maybe that would correct the angle issue and avoid the BUMP??
Stuff has to be secured lightly just so it won't fall off the boat. It is most important to do the bump RIGHT AWAY, so the bunks don't dry. I'm too lazy to use the bunk roller stuff or soap. Also, be prepared for hard stares, because if you do need to almost lock your brakes like I do people will think you are crashing. Sometimes I "crash" 3 times in a row--keeps those freeway neckbenders working haha.
About the earlier coment regarding centerboard dropping if boat is up a quarter inch past trunk-- can't you just secure the c/b with its rope/wire? Also once home tension can be taken off the cb raising system by physically pushing board up and setting it to rest on forward part of bunk--just remember to cleat rope before you leave on your next trip!
Rolf
About the earlier coment regarding centerboard dropping if boat is up a quarter inch past trunk-- can't you just secure the c/b with its rope/wire? Also once home tension can be taken off the cb raising system by physically pushing board up and setting it to rest on forward part of bunk--just remember to cleat rope before you leave on your next trip!
Rolf
Rollers
I have an idea that if the forward bunks were replaced with actual rollers, then as the trailer came up under the boat maybe it would nestle in better - I think what happens is the weight of the boat wedged into the V on the forward bunks prevents the boat from moving any more forward, especially given that the winch rope is pulling the boat down at the nose. Has anyoene ever tried just running the winch rope from a higher position to avoid "pinching" the bow between the winch and the bunks?
Separate question - Has anyone added a second set of guide posts forward of the fenders somewhere? In a day with a cross-wind I always have a problem where I get the boat motored in between the rear posts ok, and then when you stop, the wind carries the bow downwind over the side of the trailer while the rear guide post holds the stern...
- AndyS
Separate question - Has anyone added a second set of guide posts forward of the fenders somewhere? In a day with a cross-wind I always have a problem where I get the boat motored in between the rear posts ok, and then when you stop, the wind carries the bow downwind over the side of the trailer while the rear guide post holds the stern...
- AndyS
- Jim Bunnell
- First Officer
- Posts: 278
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:13 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Southfield, MI; Tohatsu TLDI 50, '03 26M hull # MACM 0019 C303
2-speed trailer winch
I bought a brand new Fulton 2600# rated 2-speed winch on eBay for $41.00 plus
$6.00 shipping last year. The beauty of the Fulton unit vs less expensive units is that you don't have to move the handle from shaft to shaft to change ratios.
$6.00 shipping last year. The beauty of the Fulton unit vs less expensive units is that you don't have to move the handle from shaft to shaft to change ratios.
- ALX357
- Admiral
- Posts: 1231
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:09 am
- Location: Nashville TN -- 2000 MacGregor 26X, Mercury two-stroke 50hp
As far as guides on the trailer.... i have placed the usual PVC 5' pipes over the goal-posts, a smaller inner one first that just fits over the steel and inside a larger, outer PVC pipe for strength. Cap on the outer pipe, with hold drilled for escaping air, AND a good piece braided line stop-knotted inside the hole, from there forward, into the end of a smaller 4' PVC pipe extension placed over the "whiskers" at the winch. The whisker extensions have a cap on the aft end, with a hole ini it for the rope entryand a T-fitting on the end near the winch. Ran the line from the goalposts down the extend horizontal whisker extensions, into the actual whisker (took off the rubber cane end) and down toward the end with the T fitting, out the side of the T, and secured to the ladder so the whisker extension cant climb off the whisker and go up the rope towards the goal-posts.
From the base of the goal-posts, i put a carpet wrapped 2x6 PT board onto the top of the trailer fender extending about a foot forward, and bolted it to the top of the fender with a carriage bolt from beneath, (tire is close there) and counter-sunk the hole atop the board for a fender washer and locking nut, which is buried below the board and carpet surface to avoid any possible contact with the hull. At the back end of the board, i used some "U" straps bent appropriately to go around the bottom of the goalposts and another on each side to hold the board down to the trailer there, so now i have a side guide that prevents any hull contact with the trailer' fenders, and provides a step-platform for standing on next to the boat cockpit. It's easiest to do this all with the boat on the trailer to minimize the clearances and make sure the boards extend just inboard of the fenders enough. Hope this description isn't "clear as mud", and i will clarify if needed.
Between the 2x6 rails, and the corral formed by the two side ropes, the boat can't escape far, and won't get scratched by those whiskers if it lands momentarily off center. The "give" of the ropes will catch the boat and spring it back into alignment if it wanders off axis as it enters. Cheap mod, PVC and rope, pair of 2x6 8' PT, some hardware store stuff, a couple of hours.... is the boat worth the protection ??
From the base of the goal-posts, i put a carpet wrapped 2x6 PT board onto the top of the trailer fender extending about a foot forward, and bolted it to the top of the fender with a carriage bolt from beneath, (tire is close there) and counter-sunk the hole atop the board for a fender washer and locking nut, which is buried below the board and carpet surface to avoid any possible contact with the hull. At the back end of the board, i used some "U" straps bent appropriately to go around the bottom of the goalposts and another on each side to hold the board down to the trailer there, so now i have a side guide that prevents any hull contact with the trailer' fenders, and provides a step-platform for standing on next to the boat cockpit. It's easiest to do this all with the boat on the trailer to minimize the clearances and make sure the boards extend just inboard of the fenders enough. Hope this description isn't "clear as mud", and i will clarify if needed.
Between the 2x6 rails, and the corral formed by the two side ropes, the boat can't escape far, and won't get scratched by those whiskers if it lands momentarily off center. The "give" of the ropes will catch the boat and spring it back into alignment if it wanders off axis as it enters. Cheap mod, PVC and rope, pair of 2x6 8' PT, some hardware store stuff, a couple of hours.... is the boat worth the protection ??
- Sloop John B
- Captain
- Posts: 871
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50
Gees Alx,
"The wisker estentions have a capon this aft end with a hole in it for the rope entry and a T fitting on the end toward the winch."
This is all clear as mud, but send me a diagram by PM in case I misunderstood something.
Edit: ALX, thanks for all the pictures you e-mailed me. You've got a real nice setup.
"The wisker estentions have a capon this aft end with a hole in it for the rope entry and a T fitting on the end toward the winch."
This is all clear as mud, but send me a diagram by PM in case I misunderstood something.
Edit: ALX, thanks for all the pictures you e-mailed me. You've got a real nice setup.
