Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
I noticed that the line that controls the centerboard on my 2001 26x is getting frayed at the entrance to the mast pole, and don't see how to replace that easily. The manual shows a wire but doesn't indicate how the line is connected to the wire. The boat's on blocks but I'm hoping to get her in the water this weekend - but have visions of the line parting just when I need it most! Any advice would be welcome. TIA
- Catigale
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
I believe by 2001 the
had gone to all line CB, no metal.
The good news is even if the line parts the CB just drops; no damage done. You can even put it back on the trailer since it will just kick up.
There are a couple of threads on CB line replacement in repairs
The good news is even if the line parts the CB just drops; no damage done. You can even put it back on the trailer since it will just kick up.
There are a couple of threads on CB line replacement in repairs
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PEN24
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
I replaced mine a month or so ago on my 2001 26X. There was no wire, just rope all the way and it is secured by a knot which sits in a recess on the centrboard. Simple enough when the boat was on the trailer.
- Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
What kind of line did you use for the replacement? I wonder what BWY uses, probably just regular double yacht braid is my guess...which of course is top quality line, but I wonder if something like amsteel blue has better chafe resistance. I replaced the line on my 2000X several years ago, but now its starting to get chafed again and I probably should replace it within the next year or two.
- mastreb
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
sounds like a perfect use for dyneema/amsteel. Same diameter as the cable will have higher strength. If you need to make a loop, use a climber's figure-8 knot rather than a bowline which can work itself out of dyneema.
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PEN24
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
Now you haev me worried. I used simple braid - same as that which was used originally. Perhaps I should have gone for something more durable? On the other hand the original lasted over 10 years so I am hoping it will perform OK.
- Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
I wouldn't worry about it too much, I just looked up my last replacement and it was Dec 2005 so that is 8.5 years now I've gotten out of the yacht braid and it could go 10 years before breaking. The first one didn't last as long and my theory is that the edge where it turns down into the tube is probably not as sharp as it was originally so most likely each successive line will last a bit longer. If Dyneema won't make a proper knot, then that will be a problem because a loop isn't going to work I'm guessing (will bind in the trunk) so it would be interesting to know if anyone has successfull used it?
- DaveB
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
I have used double Stabraided line for 4 years with a pro doing a small 1/2 inch loop in the splice (NO KNOTS).
This is important as the small channel of the centerboard doesn't want a knot to bind on.
I have used Amsteel on daggerboards with 4 to one small pullies and works excellent. Using it for Centerboard is excellent but don't know how well it stands up to the sun on deck.
1/4 inch Amsteel is so strong you can reduce it to 1/8 and still get strength as double braid or more.
When mine needs replacement I will go with Amsteel and have a rigger do the 1/2 inch loop splice.
Amsteel can be spliced to a eye.
Dave
This is important as the small channel of the centerboard doesn't want a knot to bind on.
I have used Amsteel on daggerboards with 4 to one small pullies and works excellent. Using it for Centerboard is excellent but don't know how well it stands up to the sun on deck.
1/4 inch Amsteel is so strong you can reduce it to 1/8 and still get strength as double braid or more.
When mine needs replacement I will go with Amsteel and have a rigger do the 1/2 inch loop splice.
Amsteel can be spliced to a eye.
Dave
Dimitri-2000X-Tampa wrote:I wouldn't worry about it too much, I just looked up my last replacement and it was Dec 2005 so that is 8.5 years now I've gotten out of the yacht braid and it could go 10 years before breaking. The first one didn't last as long and my theory is that the edge where it turns down into the tube is probably not as sharp as it was originally so most likely each successive line will last a bit longer. If Dyneema won't make a proper knot, then that will be a problem because a loop isn't going to work I'm guessing (will bind in the trunk) so it would be interesting to know if anyone has successfull used it?
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ecossebob
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
Hi.
I have a 2001X and would like to replace my CB cable, but thought it would have to be done with the boat in the water.
You said you replaced your's with the boat on the trailer.
How did you do that?.
Thanks BobW.
I have a 2001X and would like to replace my CB cable, but thought it would have to be done with the boat in the water.
You said you replaced your's with the boat on the trailer.
How did you do that?.
Thanks BobW.
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PEN24
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
Hi Bob
It was simpler than I thought. The bracket which holds the centreboard is secured with a single nut. You can find it on top of the centreboard housing if you look in the storage space underneath the front dinette seat. Undo this to drop the board onto a couple of carboard boxes to break the fall. The board can now be removed and the rope replaced. Putting it back was relatively straight forward. You need someone in the boat to secure the nut when you push up the assembly from below.
It was simpler than I thought. The bracket which holds the centreboard is secured with a single nut. You can find it on top of the centreboard housing if you look in the storage space underneath the front dinette seat. Undo this to drop the board onto a couple of carboard boxes to break the fall. The board can now be removed and the rope replaced. Putting it back was relatively straight forward. You need someone in the boat to secure the nut when you push up the assembly from below.
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
The nut will probably stick in the trunk as it is gooped in with 5200...removal is:
Back nut off until it is flush with top of hangar thread.
Place piece of wood on nut
Sharp rap with big hammer to break goop.
Remove nut and lower hanger and CB
Use lots of 5200 to replace.
Back nut off until it is flush with top of hangar thread.
Place piece of wood on nut
Sharp rap with big hammer to break goop.
Remove nut and lower hanger and CB
Use lots of 5200 to replace.
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ecossebob
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
Thanks for the heads up Guys.
When I loose my CB cable, the CB rests on a trailer cross member. When I pull the pivot bolt does the CB come free?.
I can't get to my X right now to check it out.
Thanks again Bob.
When I loose my CB cable, the CB rests on a trailer cross member. When I pull the pivot bolt does the CB come free?.
I can't get to my X right now to check it out.
Thanks again Bob.
- Catigale
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
The nut you remove holds the CB hangar...the CB and hangar will drop down after you remove the nut and release the stud from inside. I'll try and find the picture from when I did it
Picture here
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... rd#p212855
Picture here
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... rd#p212855
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Three Gypsies
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Re: Replacing frayed centerboard line 26X
On my 2000 X we had to have the boat lifted off the trailer in a sling . Ours was rope all the way to the keel . It passed thru the keel hole and was knotted .
Knowing what I know now , I think it would be easy enough to replace it under water .
Feed the line thru , then pass it thru the hole in the keel , bring it to the surface and knot it , pull it tight .
Knowing what I know now , I think it would be easy enough to replace it under water .
Feed the line thru , then pass it thru the hole in the keel , bring it to the surface and knot it , pull it tight .
