quick fix for rudder slop

[seahouse]

I've contacted Matt, bnix00, innervations, and Ix on this thread through email on this forum, but noticed halfway through that the address on file was outdated, and I don't have any confirming records of having sent them. So if you haven't been contacted as of now -please let me know.

Thanks - Brian.

[BOAT]

I did not hear about anyone placing orders yet but just in case i was not clear I wanted to buy a set of these too if that's okay. (Not sure if you had started on this project yet).

[seahouse]

That's very OK, BOAT. I'll ship yours with Matt's, as he offered, if it's OK with you. I'll be going over to Buff tomorrow, and Saturday, so will clear customs and ship from there on one of those days. Anybody else, let me know. Paypal is good.

I think these might be popular once some independent field reports come back; I have never been without them on my boat - I installed them before it hit the water, but from this thread I might have underestimated their value.

General notes--

Once you get them, notice that they are made in two (mirror image) pairs, I intended that the shinier side goes against the rudder, but it's not really a big deal if you don't pay attention to it. The weld is a variable in the fit, so I left a bit of meat where they will meet the weld. You can trim that off with a tin snips or sharp utility knife to suit your particular brackets if you need to.

- Brian.

[innervations]

Thanks Brian, looking forward to receiving my set of rudder spacers. Will report back from sunny Perth, Western Australia.

[BOAT]

Hey, it sunny here in SoCal too!

[patchdog]

an industrial supply store or better yet a commercial pipe fitting contracting outfit /shop will probably have 1/16" and 1/8th " white teflon gasket material works good also for taking play out of swing keel

[Doug W]

Great idea. I have my rudders presently removed. I may give it a try!

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Okay folks... been reading this thread and trying to figure out if I need new brackets, spacers or try to bend the brackets back in place, then add spacers.... Here's a pix of my left rudder bracket on my I put some plastic cutting board spacers on both sides but it didn't seem to do a thing... I'd appreciate any and all suggestions.

[Crikey]

You should be able to carefully bend the bracket(s) back into the original orientation with some clamps or levers. It looks like you allowed the pivot bolt to open up and supply a lot of slop space for the bending to occur. Check and see that none of the factory welds have cracked and are beginning to spread. I added stainless welded gussets to mine some time ago to stiffen everything up.

Seahouse's shims perfectly solved the remaining excess.
You could use my rudders as diving boards...

R.

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Thanks... Seahorse... any more shims laying around you'd like to get rid of?

[seahouse]

Yes, the tangs need to be bent back straight and parallel, as when they were new, and the pivot bolt needs to be kept tight against plastic spacers so this doesn't happen again.

While it's easier said than done, the tangs need to be flat and parallel to each other, and with the proper distance between them.

Straightening any piece of bent metal is an art, and covering it in detail is beyond the scope of this forum. Briefly though, study the pieces first to determine where to apply the pressure (a single point, or a line), and where to support the piece(s) against that pressure (usually two points, or lines).

From the photo, it looks like the tangs have spread in two directions, backwards, and downwards, and that the bend has happened more at a line that passes through the pivot point.

Simply squeezing the tangs together again with, say, a 4” bench vice (that's not attached to a bench) or a big “C” clamp will not get you the result you want, because it won't flatten them, and therefore they won't end up parallel. Hint: put tape over the vice jaws to avoid scratches. Something of the right thickness, like a piece(s) of hardwood will need to be placed between the tangs, in the right position (likely past the pivot hole), so that the tangs bend as they are brought into being parallel by the vice pressure.

The amount of “overbend” needed can be gauged by noting the orientation of the vice handle – apply the pressure (start with too little), note the orientation, back out the vice, check the bend amount, then back the vice handle in again, going, say, 1/16 th of a rotation more, and repeat until you're happy with it.

Use a straight edge (like a 6”or 12”steel ruler or similar) perpendicular to the face of the tang, to check for flatness – you want to see the minimum sliver of light coming through at the contact line. If you can pinch a 1/2” wide strip of paper in that sliver, (or even two, or three, thicknesses) then perfect! (But might not always be attainable). Be patient.

As shipped from the factory there is 1/8” of clearance between the tangs and the rudders, so when the pivot bolt is snugged up to two 1/16” thick plastic spacers, one on each side, that clearance is taken up, the tangs are drawn parallel, and lash is removed at that point. You can make your own or I can provide as mentioned above.

If the nylock nut of the pivot bolt shows signs of wear, or is a bit too loose for your liking, I would replace it/ them. You want it to maintain tension over time to keep the tangs from spreading.

Good luck!

-B.

ps. I emailed you re: the spacers.

[innervations]

I have seen a ~4 inch diameter round stainless plate approx 1/4 inch thick added to each outerside of the tangs like a large washer if you like. It was a here in Australia. Has anyone else done this to stiffen the tang? Seemed and easy fix.

P.s. Have Seahouse's plastic spacers and they are working a treat.

[cptron]

Thanks... Seahorse... any more shims laying around you'd like to get rid of?

Seahouse, Mine look just like fishheads. I would appreciate being able to take an extra set off your hands for the price everyone is giving here. You have given the best information on straightening out these things yet that I can find.

[fishheadbarandgrill]

thanks Seahouse. I'll give it a shot... I know you gave me the spacing between the rudders and the blades...

But can someone, who's aren't bent to hull, measure the inner distance betweent the blades?

Thanks,
Bob

[BOAT]

I have seen a ~4 inch diameter round stainless plate approx 1/4 inch thick added to each outerside of the tangs like a large washer if you like. It was a here in Australia. Has anyone else done this to stiffen the tang? Seemed and easy fix.

P.s. Have Seahouse's plastic spacers and they are working a treat.