random 26X thoughts and photos

[Chinook]

Approaching a bridge with iffy clearance can be anxiety filled. First time I passed under the west side riser of the I-90 floating bridge on Lake Washington in Seattle, I was really intimidated. It was drizzly and so I had the bimini up. The chart showed bridge clearance at 35 feet, if I recall, and I had measured my mast clearance at about 34 feet. As I neared the bridge I stuck my head out, looking up, and I discovered that, from the cockpit of the boat and looking up, you have absolutely no perspective or true sense as to whether you'll clear. It looked like we'd hit the bridge for sure. I turned away at the last possible moment, and made 3 more approaches before finally proceeding, as slowly as possible. We cleared the bridge with at least a foot to spare. Afterward, I concluded that the better way to approach a bridge with questionable clearance would be to approach in reverse, alternating with neutral, so that the boat is going as slowly as possible. If the mast bumps the bridge, forward thrust is much more efficient in reversing direction than shifting to reverse to overcome a forward drift.

[Gater Dunn]

just swing the Admiral off the mast like this http://youtu.be/kiv0fxFcV3I

[Seapup]

I'm trying to think why your stern is so low then I remembered you just got a 90hp! About 100lbs heavier at the transom than my itty bitty 50.

I have been wondering about this so took a look while at the boat the other day. My drain is well above the water line even with a 400+ lb motor on a 6" rearset jackplate. You may want to double check your balance vs trying to modify the drain.

[Starscream]

Here is an unloaded photo of the boat...I am almost sure that we ARE ballasted in the photo since I rarely (if ever) have it unballasted in the slip. Quarters are too tight to risk being blown around while docking. The drain is well above the waterline without people on board.

When I loaded up with five adults and a young teenager - let's say 900 lbs, filled the ballast, full gas - maybe 110 lbs there, and light beach equipment in the rear berth, the drain hole was periodically under water with the wave action. Actually, I only really noticed this when we had the captain's seat raised and we were looking over the stern to judge water depth for swimming. It was quite noticeable, with water gurgline up into the drain well on occasion.

My boat has always been rear-heavy when loaded, even with the BF50. I noticed it first one morning while the family was still asleep and I was taking a morning walk, I looked back at the boat and it was so rear heavy that I thought for a second that we were taking on water. The full gas tanks and two people sleeping in the rear berth probably didn't help, but it was close to the waterline. I had to go back to check.

Moving the batts might help marginally, but there are a few too many wires to extend for me to embark on that now: charger, 12V outlets, battery tester, and maybe a couple of others.

Another random thought: That's a 26' powerboat parked beside me...same length but what a monster compared to the X. I haven't ever seen that slip empty...it doesn't get much use apparently. It probably will use more gas in an afternoon than I use in a season.

[Tomfoolery]

One thing I notice right away is how small that ETEC 90 looks on there. Very nice!

As to the waterline, I'd suggest looking around for 'stuff' that can be moved forward. Water tanks, batteries (ok, you don't want to move them; I wouldn't, either), extra anchors, heavy stuff. I've noticed that my boat gains elevation in the bow mostly with no ballast, so the difference in the stern between ballasted and not is minimal. That's about all you can do. Tilting the engine all the way up moves its center of mass forward a bit, too (my BF50 is nearly balanced on the hinge when up all the way).

If it still bothers you, then (if it were me) I'd replace it with a real through hull, but keep the engine well drain. Letting it fill with water by removing the drain puts the top engine mount bolts under water, and I'd rather not put bolts under water that don't have to be (above the waterline, but still under water). Put a real ball valve on it, double clamp the hose connections using reinforced hose, and sleep at night. I sleep at night now, but mine stays above the water line, and nobody uses the stern berth for sleeping (storage only).

You may have to modify the little cloth covered back panel if you install a through hull with ball valve, but you'd want to be able to reach it anyway.

[Starscream]

To be honest, so far I have to admit to a feeling of mild disappointment with the Etec. 20MPH ballasted and 24 MPH unballasted at about 5000 RPM with a 14x11x3 prop just doesn't impress me for a 90. Sure it's way better than the 50, but not what I was hoping for. In my opinion the 90 should be able to easily swing a 13" prop up at over 5,000 RPM.

Plus, it does NOT like starting on the first turn. Sometimes three or four cranks, or more...I will be taking it back to the dealer for service. Also I will ask about a large dead-zone in the throttle where pushing it forward for what seems to be about 1/3 of the way doesn't get much response at all.

[Seapup]

Your balance/water level looks good in the pic, 5 people is just a lot of weight.

If you are heavy 20/24 sounds about right to me for speed. Where is the dead zone in your throttle?

[Starscream]

The dead zone is somewhere after about 1500-2000 RPM: I didn't really take accurate note yet. It idles at something around 1k, and it responds right away to small adjustments so no problem for docking and slow-speed maneuvers, but then it just sits at the same speed for about a third or even half of the travel of the throttle lever. Once past that dead zone it rapidly increases RPM up past 3k all the way to full throttle.

[March]

Starscream:
The ETEC typically starts at the touch of the key. You don;t even have to pump the rubber pear. Don't know what you expect from a 90 HP, but you might want to have an ETEC technician check it out. Having is start the second or third time only is not normal

[Catigale]

For plugs, buy rubber stoppers at a hardware store rather than wood plugs like a keelboat. You want the size that about 1/2 fits into the hole, then you can mash them into the hole with your hand to seal and hold, no tools needed.