For posterity, I am writing two post on this subject. This one was originally by Frank w/ "Chamelea" on SF Bay Date: 11/20/03 (old board)
A boat shopper asked about the 26X genesis, but that thread became "vectored" - here's a summary. The model 2000 included everything on the factory's upgrade list, and even some '98 models had significant changes. Macgregor's "improvements" page was written in November 1999 as a summary of the factory's recent running changes, the word "recent" being a little fuzzy. Keep in mind that the Nov '99 upgrade list was just beyond the 99 model year (June 30). Also, since the factory is slightly tech-averse, one can also surmise that they were "late in publishing the list. My boat is the first model 2000 (MACX3067G900 July 1999), and it has all of the changes they listed.
Significant changes were ballast vent forward, foam-cored deck structure and rack steering, which are impossible or expensive for later upgrading. Some feel that the ballast tank was repositioned more forward, too, but I recall the evidence was ambiguous. Minor factory changes (easy owner upgrades) included stainless cheats, aft-mounted switch panel, 225 tires, galvanized brakes, companionway ladder, etc. (Sorry if memory has faded, but somebody must still have a copy of that list)?
Since they were "running" changes, nearly all were implemented during the '99 model year. At one time with help of the owner group, I had created a list of hull numbers, with changes present or absend... sadly long-lost in a digital memory crash. But this informal canvassing (here and on the Sailnet list) determined that even the hulls built after March 1998 (mid-year '98 models) had most of the factory upgrades.
Stainless rudder brackets were implemented earlier than the rack mechanism, so you might find a boat with newer rudders but older Morse steering gear. One running change that caused some confusion among '98 to '99 hulls... after molding the forward ballast vent, many boats still included the companionway step mold, even though the vent was no longer located there.
The most frequently reported problems are easy to assess... first, the rudder brackets, and second, the steering gear. Finally, also keep in mind that time has proven all the 26Xs very durable, e.g. I've not heard of anybody falling thru a balsa-cored deck! If you like the layout of the 26X, I think the outboard, owner improvements and the general condition deserve most of a buyer's focus. Hope the organic recall helps.
Factory Changes of the 26X
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Mark Prouty
- Admiral
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- Location: Madison, WI Former MacGregor 26X Owner
Mark,
I've got one of those 1998 boats I think was in the middle of conversion, but I'm not near my boat to get the hull number to know for sure. It looks like I had all the changes, but when I stand on the deck it seems soft, which the new deck was suppose to correct. How would I know if I have the balsa or the new decking?
Dave
I've got one of those 1998 boats I think was in the middle of conversion, but I'm not near my boat to get the hull number to know for sure. It looks like I had all the changes, but when I stand on the deck it seems soft, which the new deck was suppose to correct. How would I know if I have the balsa or the new decking?
Dave
-
Mark Prouty
- Admiral
- Posts: 1723
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:52 am
- Location: Madison, WI Former MacGregor 26X Owner
Recent Changes to the Macgregor 26
This is from the MacGregor website - dated November 20, 1999
We have made some significant improvements in the 26 over last few months.
Here is a photo of the finished setup. The ladder hinges up and out of the way for easy access to the rear berth. Eliminating the bump in the liner allowed us to increase the size of the rear berth.
WATER TANK VENT. The vent has been moved from under the step. This has some big advantages: (1) A ring is bonded to the water tank top and surrounds the vent hole. It acts as a dam, trapping water that slops out the hole. A similar dam could not be placed on the vent under the step without making the step unreasonably high. (2) On a steep ramp, the old location occasionally let water spill into the boat when the vent was removed. This won't happen with the forward vent. (3) The tank fills a bit faster. (4) There is no longer an air bubble that allows the water in the tank to make glurping noises when the boat is bouncing around at a mooring. (5) It is slightly easier to get at the vent in its new location. You no longer have to fool around with the step hold down bolts. This also makes it less likely you will forget to secure the step and invit a a fall. However, you do have to lift the bunk hatch to see the vent hole.
STEERING. The cable and drum steering has been replaced with a very strong rack and pinion system (with a safe working load at the tiller of 2000 pounds, as opposed to the old system with a safe working load of 300 pounds.) These new units are extremely strong and durable. They are easier to install and service, and offer much smoother steering. We have raised the height of the pedestal to take the longer rack. The new units are long and thin, and take up a lot less rome inside of the pedestal.
NEW HATCH RAILS We have replaced the aluminum sliding and vertical hatch rails with 3/8" thick white polpropylen rails. These rails have been used by Schock Boats for some time with great success. Unlike the aluminum rails, they don't change color with time. They create less friction when sliding the hatch, and look a lot better. There is no more electrolysis between the stainless bolts and the aluminum in the rail. They have nice routed edges, and are polished to a gloss surface that matches the gloss on the rest of the deck.
STRONGER TABLE WITH NEW FASTENERS. The table has been beefed up and now feels as solid as a rock, in either the up or down position. We have replaced the stainless wing bolts with black molded knobs with generous diameters. They are easier to secure, and lok a lot less mickey mouse.
NEW DECK STRUCTURE. For quite a few months, we have been building decks with an entirely new layup system. Much of the balsa wood has been replaced with a system of molded beams that make the deck liner a functional part of the deck structure.
We make the layup of the initial deck skins in the normal manner. Then, instead of balsa core, we lay in 1" * 1" flexible and spongy foam beams on 4 to 6" centers. These beams are then covered with 1 or 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat. Eachlayer of mat overlaps the mat on the adjacent beams. Before these layers cure, the liner is pressed into the molded deck. The liner compresses the foam and forces a good bond between the wet mat and the liner. The liner forms the inner skin of the deck structure. The results are quite spectacular. This system has some big improvements. Balsa created some problems. It tends to rot if water gets to it, and it was not always possible to assure that the balso bonded solidly to the outer skin of the deck. The result was soft spots. No more. The foam can't rot, but it really doesn't matter. It is there only to create a shape for the figerglass covering and the pressuer needed to assure a good bond.
Until we made this change, the deck liners offered virtually no structural support for the deck. Now the decks are a lot stiffer, with no soft spots. They are also a lot lighter, which improves the boat's inherent stability, trailerability and speed.
We are getting a lot of positive feedback from customers and dealers on how much stiffer the decks feel under foot.
TRAILER BRAKES. We have switched to trailer brakes that have stainless steel internal structures to keep corrosion under control. They are a mojor improvement, and should have greatly extended life.
FUEL TANK STORAGE AREA. When you looked at the roof of the fuel tank boxes, the underside of the seat layup was exposed,and was not too attractive. We have covered this area with a smooth white gel coat panel, and it really looks finished.
NEW CLEATS. The plastic mooring cleats have been replaced with really good looking highly polished stainless steel cleats. Each cleat has four 1/4" bolts rather than two, so they are a lot stronger.
SWITCH PANELS We moved the switch panel to the deck liner just inside the cabin entry. To flip on the lights, you can just reach around from the cockpit.
FUSES We are now using 5 amp everywhere in the system. We had experienced problems withlower amperage fuses blowing prematurely.
CENTERBOARD CABLES. We have replaced the wire cables with a coated, abrasion resistant 5/16" line. This should eliminate all problems with electrolysis and corrosion. It is also a lot easier for the owner to change if the hoisting system suffers wear or damage. To reduce wear, we are carefully rounding the edges of the rope hole and the hole in the centerboard trunk thru which the line passes. The mast step has been redesighed to allow a larger hole for the centerboard line, and the bearing has been relocated to assure that the line passes straight down the hole, rather than hitting the sides.
DRAIN HOLE IN THE LINER. Directly below the hatch entrance, we are now drilling a 1/2" hole to allow excessive bilge water to move out onto the floor of the liner. This may sound pretty stupid at first, but there is a really god reason for making the change. Without this hole, it is possible for the boat to collect a really large, stability threatening load of bilge water. Since the liner floor area (the area that is carpeted) was essentially a water tight tub, the skipper would have no way of knowing that he had a big lod of bilge water until the water had reached the level of the cutout in the face of the galley. It is true that the skipper should look in a hatch occasionally and check for bilge water, but I prefer a more obvious warning. When he steps in the cabin and ends up with water up to his ankles, he will get the message. I recommend that all owners of older boats make a similar hole. (be really carefull not to drill into the bump on the water tank found on the older boats.) You can see the hole location in the ladder photos that appeared earlier. The hole is high enough that a limited amount of bilge water will not dribble out onto the carpet.
ACCESS TO FOREDECK HARDWARE. In the past, if you wanted to add or remove hardware form the foredeck, you had to remove the panel on the underside of the frontfoam box and remove the foam. We have shortened the foam box, so you can now lay on the front bunk and reach up at the forward edge of the foam box and get to the nuts and bolts that hold the hardware. The access panel is no longer there.
We have made some significant improvements in the 26 over last few months.
Here is a photo of the finished setup. The ladder hinges up and out of the way for easy access to the rear berth. Eliminating the bump in the liner allowed us to increase the size of the rear berth.
WATER TANK VENT. The vent has been moved from under the step. This has some big advantages: (1) A ring is bonded to the water tank top and surrounds the vent hole. It acts as a dam, trapping water that slops out the hole. A similar dam could not be placed on the vent under the step without making the step unreasonably high. (2) On a steep ramp, the old location occasionally let water spill into the boat when the vent was removed. This won't happen with the forward vent. (3) The tank fills a bit faster. (4) There is no longer an air bubble that allows the water in the tank to make glurping noises when the boat is bouncing around at a mooring. (5) It is slightly easier to get at the vent in its new location. You no longer have to fool around with the step hold down bolts. This also makes it less likely you will forget to secure the step and invit a a fall. However, you do have to lift the bunk hatch to see the vent hole.
STEERING. The cable and drum steering has been replaced with a very strong rack and pinion system (with a safe working load at the tiller of 2000 pounds, as opposed to the old system with a safe working load of 300 pounds.) These new units are extremely strong and durable. They are easier to install and service, and offer much smoother steering. We have raised the height of the pedestal to take the longer rack. The new units are long and thin, and take up a lot less rome inside of the pedestal.
NEW HATCH RAILS We have replaced the aluminum sliding and vertical hatch rails with 3/8" thick white polpropylen rails. These rails have been used by Schock Boats for some time with great success. Unlike the aluminum rails, they don't change color with time. They create less friction when sliding the hatch, and look a lot better. There is no more electrolysis between the stainless bolts and the aluminum in the rail. They have nice routed edges, and are polished to a gloss surface that matches the gloss on the rest of the deck.
STRONGER TABLE WITH NEW FASTENERS. The table has been beefed up and now feels as solid as a rock, in either the up or down position. We have replaced the stainless wing bolts with black molded knobs with generous diameters. They are easier to secure, and lok a lot less mickey mouse.
NEW DECK STRUCTURE. For quite a few months, we have been building decks with an entirely new layup system. Much of the balsa wood has been replaced with a system of molded beams that make the deck liner a functional part of the deck structure.
We make the layup of the initial deck skins in the normal manner. Then, instead of balsa core, we lay in 1" * 1" flexible and spongy foam beams on 4 to 6" centers. These beams are then covered with 1 or 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat. Eachlayer of mat overlaps the mat on the adjacent beams. Before these layers cure, the liner is pressed into the molded deck. The liner compresses the foam and forces a good bond between the wet mat and the liner. The liner forms the inner skin of the deck structure. The results are quite spectacular. This system has some big improvements. Balsa created some problems. It tends to rot if water gets to it, and it was not always possible to assure that the balso bonded solidly to the outer skin of the deck. The result was soft spots. No more. The foam can't rot, but it really doesn't matter. It is there only to create a shape for the figerglass covering and the pressuer needed to assure a good bond.
Until we made this change, the deck liners offered virtually no structural support for the deck. Now the decks are a lot stiffer, with no soft spots. They are also a lot lighter, which improves the boat's inherent stability, trailerability and speed.
We are getting a lot of positive feedback from customers and dealers on how much stiffer the decks feel under foot.
TRAILER BRAKES. We have switched to trailer brakes that have stainless steel internal structures to keep corrosion under control. They are a mojor improvement, and should have greatly extended life.
FUEL TANK STORAGE AREA. When you looked at the roof of the fuel tank boxes, the underside of the seat layup was exposed,and was not too attractive. We have covered this area with a smooth white gel coat panel, and it really looks finished.
NEW CLEATS. The plastic mooring cleats have been replaced with really good looking highly polished stainless steel cleats. Each cleat has four 1/4" bolts rather than two, so they are a lot stronger.
SWITCH PANELS We moved the switch panel to the deck liner just inside the cabin entry. To flip on the lights, you can just reach around from the cockpit.
FUSES We are now using 5 amp everywhere in the system. We had experienced problems withlower amperage fuses blowing prematurely.
CENTERBOARD CABLES. We have replaced the wire cables with a coated, abrasion resistant 5/16" line. This should eliminate all problems with electrolysis and corrosion. It is also a lot easier for the owner to change if the hoisting system suffers wear or damage. To reduce wear, we are carefully rounding the edges of the rope hole and the hole in the centerboard trunk thru which the line passes. The mast step has been redesighed to allow a larger hole for the centerboard line, and the bearing has been relocated to assure that the line passes straight down the hole, rather than hitting the sides.
DRAIN HOLE IN THE LINER. Directly below the hatch entrance, we are now drilling a 1/2" hole to allow excessive bilge water to move out onto the floor of the liner. This may sound pretty stupid at first, but there is a really god reason for making the change. Without this hole, it is possible for the boat to collect a really large, stability threatening load of bilge water. Since the liner floor area (the area that is carpeted) was essentially a water tight tub, the skipper would have no way of knowing that he had a big lod of bilge water until the water had reached the level of the cutout in the face of the galley. It is true that the skipper should look in a hatch occasionally and check for bilge water, but I prefer a more obvious warning. When he steps in the cabin and ends up with water up to his ankles, he will get the message. I recommend that all owners of older boats make a similar hole. (be really carefull not to drill into the bump on the water tank found on the older boats.) You can see the hole location in the ladder photos that appeared earlier. The hole is high enough that a limited amount of bilge water will not dribble out onto the carpet.
ACCESS TO FOREDECK HARDWARE. In the past, if you wanted to add or remove hardware form the foredeck, you had to remove the panel on the underside of the frontfoam box and remove the foam. We have shortened the foam box, so you can now lay on the front bunk and reach up at the forward edge of the foam box and get to the nuts and bolts that hold the hardware. The access panel is no longer there.
Last edited by Mark Prouty on Mon Mar 15, 2004 2:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Mark Prouty
- Admiral
- Posts: 1723
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:52 am
- Location: Madison, WI Former MacGregor 26X Owner
Dave,Janusch wrote:Mark,
I've got one of those 1998 boats I think was in the middle of conversion, but I'm not near my boat to get the hull number to know for sure. It looks like I had all the changes, but when I stand on the deck it seems soft, which the new deck was suppose to correct. How would I know if I have the balsa or the new decking?
Dave
I'm not sure how you would know if you have the balsa or the new decking. Maybe someone with a 1998 boat knowing his hull number and having the new decking would know. When you got a chance, you could compare numbers.
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Frank C
You might get a hint by removing some of the liner plugs in the cabin and shining a penlight into the space between liner and deck.Janusch wrote:Mark,
I've got one of those 1998 boats I think was in the middle of conversion, but I'm not near my boat to get the hull number to know for sure. It looks like I had all the changes, but when I stand on the deck it seems soft, which the new deck was suppose to correct. How would I know if I have the balsa or the new decking?
Dave
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mike
- Captain
- Posts: 812
- Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 8:06 pm
- Location: MS Gulf Coast "Wind Dancer" 98 26X
How could there have been a difference in sailing performance? The hull design, rig, etc. didn't change, right?Popeye wrote:I owned a 1997 26X which I used for 3 summeers. I didnot like the boat. It motored well, but I didnt care for the sailing performance. I found a buyer in the fall of 1999. I went to the January 2000 Boat show to buy a new sailboat, for $20,000 max. Precisision, Hunter, Catalina etc etc. I checked out the new 2000 26X with all the upgrades and liked it so I bought one.
--Mike
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craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
If you have a balsa core deck it is easy to see from inside the cabin on a sunny day if you remove the black winch covers and look up at the deck. There are spots where it is clearly visable.
Regarding sailing performance differences, if you bought a used boat and the previous owner tuned (removed the bad wether helm) the rigging, you should see a big improvement.
Regarding sailing performance differences, if you bought a used boat and the previous owner tuned (removed the bad wether helm) the rigging, you should see a big improvement.
Here are two web archives of the original MacGregor 26X Production Modification Lists (Mark posted the text above). Some of the pictures are still there in the first archive as well:
http://web.archive.org/web/200212090426 ... nm26x.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200006192040 ... hanges.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/200212090426 ... nm26x.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200006192040 ... hanges.htm
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Pouw Geuzebroek
- Engineer
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 11:22 am
- Location: Aalsmeer (NL) The Netherlands (Europe) 1999 X 'Travelling Light' Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
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Rich Plumb
- Engineer
- Posts: 149
- Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2004 2:55 pm
- Sailboat: Venture 25
- Location: Covington WA
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Frank C
Kevin,kmclemore wrote:I'm trying to re-create that 'wayback' webpage of the MacGregor 26X changes page, and I'll post it for everyone once I do, but does anyone have the photographs that belong in the page?
If you're planning to invest that much effort, I think a phone call to factory-Bill would be worthwhile. Who knows, they might even have it archived someplace. In any event, I think he'd lend a sympathetic ear for the owner community.
While you're on the phone, maybe he'd hint at what sort of "legacy parts bin" they still have. I'm mainly thinking of rudder brackets, stainless rails (pulpits, aft rails, stanchions, ladders), CB hangers, mast step, spars, and maybe the formed glass like slider, fore hatches, helm seat, etc.
Looking at the list .... maybe a fax or letter would be a good opener to the conversation? If they have the parts and I had the storage .... macgregorparts.org ???
