Its time to replace the steering on my . There is already a rack and pinion steering system installed (not OEM). I am wondering if its possible to buy a new steering kit, and just replace the rack and cable? That way I don't have to remove the steering wheel.
Is there any kind of standard in terms of gear tooth spacing? Or is there a way to measure what I have and make sure I buy a replacement kit that matches the spacing?
All of this assumes the pinion gear is not stripped or has any teeth broken, but I am hoping the likelyhood of that is low.
I had the same idea last year when it was time to do something about my steering. I did a short search for just a new rack and cable but didn't come up with anything and realized I'd save time by installing a whole new system. I went with a new rotary system and am very happy with it!
I'm going to look tonight at the cable and see if I can pull a model number off of it, or some kind of identification. Ideally I could just buy something like a SeaStar SSC134 replacement cable.
I'm really not looking forward to having to pull the wheel (including disassembling the autohelm) and remounting a brand new unit if I don't have to.
Couldn't find any markings whatsoever, but comparing what the pinion looks like I'm pretty sure it's a Detmar. Are there any aftermarket cables directly compatible with the Detmar?
A little update and more confusion - today I released the steering cable from the motor bracket, just to see how easy it would be to turn the wheel with the steering cable unloaded.
It was completely smooth and easy - I could turn the wheel with one finger. So, I'm wondering now if my steering system is even the problem? And if it's not, what could it be?
I have noticed that the steering is reasonable when I am just playing with it on the trailer. It really seems to be just at planing speeds that the steering stiffens up. Does that mean anything?
It was completely smooth and easy - I could turn the wheel with one finger. So, I'm wondering now if my steering system is even the problem? And if it's not, what could it be?
With the motor down does it turn freely left and right by hand with the cable disconnected?
If it turns freely and the cable is free something is binding.
If the motor has friction or is sticky at all check the swivel tube for a grease fitting.
Do you have the rudders in the water? At less than planing speed, like around 6kts or so, the wheel on mine gets pretty stiff when powering. Any other time, light steering. Very light when sailing, especially with the OB up and disconnected from the steering.
And do check that the friction adjustment screw on the OB is loose. Pop off the steering link and turn the OB by hand for a quick check. It should turn with almost no effort.
I'll give that a try tonight. I find the biggest problem seems to be at planing speeds with the rudders up. I agree at full hull speed with rudders down the steering is stiffer, but like you I suspect that's a limitation (and one with an easy solution - raise the rudders)
Regarding the Friction Adjustment screw - is that the one on the remote control? Or is there a separate one on the outboard itself?
I just had another thought worth mentioning. I *think* there were two flavors of the steering mechanism with the early s:
- one where an 8' steering cable comes out a little more forward and connects to the tubular bracket, and then the bracket moves both the motor and the rudders.
- one where a 10' steering cable comes out further back and connects to the motor directly? And then the tubular bracket is attached from there to drive the rudders.
I have the first one - I wonder if this design is naturally stiffer (and with more slop in the system)?
I have hated my steering since day one, very sloppy, probably 35-40 degrees of slop before the motor moves.
I just took the 90 HP plunge, so I might as well go hydraulic and enjoy my 26X even more.
I am off to search the threads for Baystar hydraulic info. Just back from a fruitless search. Found Baystar, but nothing listed for my new 90 Suzuki or Macgregor boats. Seems like a universal kit.
Any help with a Baystar on a 1998 26X ? Kit number extra parts needed?
We looked into the bay star but you need a motor well that is at least 16 inches wide in order to tilt the motor or you need a hydronic jack plate to raise the motor before tilting. The 2003 X does not have a wide enough motor well. Check out the required motor well width. You can never do too much reasearch before doing something to your boat.
We have hand steered our boat over 3000 miles on this trip we are on. We did put new rotary steering before we started the trip.
. There is already a rack and pinion steering system installed (not OEM). I am wondering if its possible to buy a new steering kit, and just replace the rack and cable? That way I don't have to remove the steering wheel.
