Why detach the mast for trailering?
Why detach the mast for trailering?
I want to make my trailering experience easier and quicker. Why do I have to detach the mast and pull it forward for trailering? It will still be supported and bungeed to the aft mast support post. I know the mast will stick out behind the trailer about 8 ft. but can't I just add a red flag on the end/top of the mast and a "long load" sign on the transom? Maybe I can also increase the height of the aft mast support post so the top of the mast is up high when trailering (but clears under any bridges).
- Tomfoolery
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
On my boat, with a 28 ft mast (not counting antenna), it would stick out about 12-1/2 ft [3-3/4 m] beyond the stern. And wiggle a LOT, with highest stresses at around the mid-point (spreader socket bolt holes), where fatigue seems to take out a lot of masts. Turning corners would risk smacking something with the mast, like an RV with a huge rear overhang. A long overhang with 'oversized load' sign may invite LEO attention on the highway, too, and could be problematic without a permit, which you won't get if you can make it not-oversized by unpinning something (I know this from 40 years of transporting cranes).
It only takes me a few minutes to move my mast, though I've had some practice at this point. I know you're trying to shave some time, but there are loads of things that take time and can be optimized or even eliminated, but leaving the mast sticking way out the back isn't one of them. IMO, of course.
It only takes me a few minutes to move my mast, though I've had some practice at this point. I know you're trying to shave some time, but there are loads of things that take time and can be optimized or even eliminated, but leaving the mast sticking way out the back isn't one of them. IMO, of course.
- mrron_tx
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
You really don't want to do that in Texas.......You can do 4ft past the trailer with a red flag...... any longer and Texas DPS will have a tape measure on You pretty quick!! Also reflecting the support issues already mentioned. Ron. 
- kurz
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
even if it would be legal it would bounce to much. You will destroy your boat!!!
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paul I
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
I can imagine trailering the boat with the mast still connected to the step, hitting a sizeable bump at decent speed and ripping that mast step right out. Its a painful thought.
Last edited by paul I on Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Cougar
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
You got a point there. I only thought about the stress on the unsupported part of the mast , which to me sounds hazardous enough by itself. But the mast step was definitely not designed to withstand upward pulling forces too.
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ecossebob
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
Earlier versions of the Mac had a split mast, with the coupling sleeve at the spreaders. The mast being in two sections could be stowed in the cabin for transportation and security.
If the Mac26s had that feature you could lower the mast, detach the upper section leaving the lower still attached to the step, nothing sticking out.
Most of the larger boat's masts being so long are in sections, using sleeves to connect them. So it should be possible to do this on a Mac26 with a much shorter mast.
Where to get the sleeve?.
If you find out, tell me where to get it and I will split mine.
Just an idea.
Bob.
If the Mac26s had that feature you could lower the mast, detach the upper section leaving the lower still attached to the step, nothing sticking out.
Most of the larger boat's masts being so long are in sections, using sleeves to connect them. So it should be possible to do this on a Mac26 with a much shorter mast.
Where to get the sleeve?.
If you find out, tell me where to get it and I will split mine.
Just an idea.
Bob.
- kurz
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
Wow, this is a really good idea.
The connection hinge should be in a way that the upper section can be lowerd without lowering the mast. Yea - rally great. No hassle with lowering to go under bridges. Just pull the line!!!
Why not factory made?
Saving so much hassle whne trailering!!!

The connection hinge should be in a way that the upper section can be lowerd without lowering the mast. Yea - rally great. No hassle with lowering to go under bridges. Just pull the line!!!
Why not factory made?
Saving so much hassle whne trailering!!!
- Catigale
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
I'm surprised there is a business transporting cranes. Aren't they migratory ?
- Mac26Mpaul
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
I have been known to do this on occasion, but only nice and slow to my local ramp which is 300 yards away from me, and thats only cause I'm in a rural area and take a chance that no cops will be around 
- Cougar
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
I don't like the idea of a split mast at all. IMO a split mast will neither be as strong, nor as flexible as a one-piece mast, making it more difficult to get a nice trim.
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ecossebob
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Re: Why detach the mast for trailering?
I don't think that a spliced mast is weaker than a one piece one. Masts three times the length of a Mac's use them. The splice is usually about 30" long and right at the lower stays, a pretty ridged location.
On a 26x you are bending the mast it might be a problem, though I think most of the bend is above the spreaders.
On a 26m the mast is straight, that's why the boom furler will only work on the 26m. So no problem there.
Warren has a 26d and I don't know if the mast has to bend like the 26x.
The hardest part of separating and joining the splice with the mast stepped would working over the stern with all that overhung weight. You might need a ladder. I myself would always unstep the mast to separate the sections.
To diverse. Consider this as an experiment.
I have a interest in a split mast. I have a 26x and thanks to Mastreb and his "Swap Meet Posts", I have an early version Inman boom furler, a 26m mast and main sail.
Matt's mast was damaged, slightly bent and twisted at the stays and I had to cut it at the bend so I could transport it.
I cut the badly damaged sections off and with great difficulty straightened the remainder. I lost about 12" of mast. The damaged ends would not splice, being still slightly deformed, so I reversed the mast sections so that deformed ends would be at top and bottom of the mast and the splice would have pristine ends to connect to joint. I can add the missing 12" to the bottom of the mast with another splice.
I used a section of 26x mast I got from Seapup, again "Swap Meet Posts". The 26x mast with the sail guide cut off can be fashioned into a slice, not perfect but close for test purposes. This splice would work as a permanent splice, but I would like to be able to slit the mast.
I have been unable to locate a source for a true 26m mast section splice and have shelved the progect for the moment. If anyone knows of a source give me PM.
For interest, a few bits of info on X to M conversion.
According to Mike Inman, to rig the 26X as a M using the same stay chain plates, keep the backstay loose so the mast can rotate.
To remove the backstay move the stay chain plates back 6" to 9", there are posts in the archive that explain this. Of course this means new rigging.
Personally I will always be in sheltered waters and don't really care about the rotating features of the mast, I want the furling boom feature, being an older gent and want to do everything possible from the cockpit.
Hope this of interest.
Bob.
On a 26x you are bending the mast it might be a problem, though I think most of the bend is above the spreaders.
On a 26m the mast is straight, that's why the boom furler will only work on the 26m. So no problem there.
Warren has a 26d and I don't know if the mast has to bend like the 26x.
The hardest part of separating and joining the splice with the mast stepped would working over the stern with all that overhung weight. You might need a ladder. I myself would always unstep the mast to separate the sections.
To diverse. Consider this as an experiment.
I have a interest in a split mast. I have a 26x and thanks to Mastreb and his "Swap Meet Posts", I have an early version Inman boom furler, a 26m mast and main sail.
Matt's mast was damaged, slightly bent and twisted at the stays and I had to cut it at the bend so I could transport it.
I cut the badly damaged sections off and with great difficulty straightened the remainder. I lost about 12" of mast. The damaged ends would not splice, being still slightly deformed, so I reversed the mast sections so that deformed ends would be at top and bottom of the mast and the splice would have pristine ends to connect to joint. I can add the missing 12" to the bottom of the mast with another splice.
I used a section of 26x mast I got from Seapup, again "Swap Meet Posts". The 26x mast with the sail guide cut off can be fashioned into a slice, not perfect but close for test purposes. This splice would work as a permanent splice, but I would like to be able to slit the mast.
I have been unable to locate a source for a true 26m mast section splice and have shelved the progect for the moment. If anyone knows of a source give me PM.
For interest, a few bits of info on X to M conversion.
According to Mike Inman, to rig the 26X as a M using the same stay chain plates, keep the backstay loose so the mast can rotate.
To remove the backstay move the stay chain plates back 6" to 9", there are posts in the archive that explain this. Of course this means new rigging.
Personally I will always be in sheltered waters and don't really care about the rotating features of the mast, I want the furling boom feature, being an older gent and want to do everything possible from the cockpit.
Hope this of interest.
Bob.
