Galley mod from the cup holder thread.

[NiceAft]

John,

The sniffer in the cabin is a good idea, I had not thought of it.

The camper size propane tank is going to be mounted in the transom. This will keep it out of the cabin. It will be covered by the closed captains seat.

I have stained the plywood insert.

Ray

[dxg4848]

Ray, where did you buy sink? Thanks!

[NiceAft]

It was on sale for $42 at Home Depot. It is a MOEN. When I went to a plumbing store to purchase the drain hook ups, they thought that was a great price.

Ray

[dxg4848]

It fits perfectly and looks great! Similar size sinks at Defender cost 5 - 6 times more! Will now look at Home Depot and Lowes

[Tomfoolery]

I'm guessing that's sold as a wet bar sink? I looks really nice. Big improvement over the OEM stuff.

What are you doing about an electric remote gas shutoff? Er, or turn-on rather, as the valves are normally closed (when de-energized).

[NiceAft]

I'm guessing that's sold as a wet bar sink? I looks really nice. Big improvement over the OEM stuff.

What are you doing about an electric remote gas shutoff? Er, or turn-on rather, as the valves are normally closed (when de-energized).

I am currently in Annapolis, and will be home Sunday. At that time I will look through the manual in order to give an intelligent answer. That being said, I have not paid attention to the operating instructions, only the installation instructions.

RIS has the same Dickinson range top. I basically did the same installation as him. Where I believe I differentiated, is in the galley top. His, I think, is much larger. I believe he did that to compensate for all of cutting away of galley surface. Instead of a larger, thicker top, I used half inch plywood cut to the shape of the recessed galley top. That now made the top flush. I finished off the edges with half inch quarter round. I glued (Water proof) together three twenty-one inch paint stirrers (free at Home Depot), one atop another, and then both used 3M 5200 and screws to glue them to the underside of the galley. They were placed at the weakest point, at the space between the sink and the range, front to back. The plywood top was also screwed down. I believe this will give quite sufficient strength.

Ray

[NiceAft]

I just finished running the gas line from the galley to the engine well. I still need to turn the valve more to face the hole I cut.

[Russ]

I bought a similar bar sink from HD or Lowes. Was cheap and came with the faucet. No boat tax.

[NiceAft]

I have a faucet (actually two) from the old sink (which I never used).

One is a pump faucet attached to a five gallon plastic tank under the sink. The other is connected to a thirty gallon Plastimo bladder in the bow. I have elected to not attatch the bladder and faucet, only the pump faucet and five gallon container.
That's why two different size holes. The smaller one is eventually for the big bladder. The larger one I cut for the the pump faucet.

Ray

[sailboatmike]

Gee and here is me trying to lose weight from my boat to keep it lean and mean and here are you guys having regular BOATELS

Some of these are more like the Hilton than my poor old X which is more like a budget backpacker hostel.

The old saying used to be a Mans house is his castle, now I see that a mans boat is his castle

[NiceAft]

It has been pointed out to me that there is not just potential, but probable chafing on the gas line where it passes through opening.

I was already aware of this, and I do appreciate being notified. This demonstrates both the quality and integrity of this site.

What I already had begun, but didn't photograph, is the following:
A) 4200 coatings applied on the exposed fiberglass edges of the opening.
B) electrical tape around the gas line for extra abrasion protection.
C) rotated the valve more so as to direct the to pass more freely through the opening.

This picture is a better demonstration of the progress.

The fiberglass is about a quarter of an inch below the line. The soft 4200 is 360 degrees around the opening.

I believe in this photo you can more clearly see the space between the gas line and any of the hole perimeter's sharp edges. I placed sail repair tape over the opening to help prevent water passing through.


Any comments as to how to improve on this mod are appreciated. Just please address them to this thread.

Ray

P.S. A 1lb gas canister will only be attached when using the range top.

Here is a photo of it as of now.

[Russ]

It looks good Ray.
Is it possible to use a rubber grommet where it passes through the fiberglass? Maybe cut a slot in one and use that as chaff protection. The electrical tape is better than nothing, however, I would guess it will chaff through eventually.
With the setup you are doing, I don't think you will have problems. You will be able to inspect it easily.

Why did you choose propane for your stove? BWY installed a butane stove in ours and it uses those little cans of fuel. I think it's just as dangerous as propane and we only use the stove with the forward hatch open a bit to allow for ventilation. And of course, your nose is a great tool to check for gas.
As scary as gas stoves sound, I believe the stats of explosions on boats are pretty rare.

--Russ

[Russ]

Gee and here is me trying to lose weight from my boat to keep it lean and mean and here are you guys having regular BOATELS

Some of these are more like the Hilton than my poor old X which is more like a budget backpacker hostel.

The old saying used to be a Mans house is his castle, now I see that a mans boat is his castle

Have you seen Highlander's boat? I'm surprised it still floats with all the stuff he's added to it.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/http://s ... 1.jpg.html

[K9Kampers]

Electrical tape offers little in the way of chafe protection. Rubber grommets are better. An alternative to rubber grommet is a rubber sleeve - a length of rubber hose sliced along it's length to slide over the installed fuel line. A tight zip tie will hold it in place, and since it fits thru the hole, provides a measure protection against water leaks as well. I deal with the chafe issue very frequently with electrical, air, and hydraulic lines on tractor trailer rigs.

[NiceAft]

Russ & K9

Truth be told, I didn't think of a rubber grommet. The area is quite visible, so I can inspect to see if a future alteration is required. I coated the opening with a thick layer of 4200. I believe that soft surface will act in the same capacity as a grommet or a sleeve. I will remain alert to a needed change. The 4200 is just not as neat looking.

The Dickinson product is a marine stove, it uses one pound camping propane canisters, and I do not think that the explosion possibilities is much different than butane.

The fuel canister is far outside of the cabin. The stove has an automatic shut off if the flame goes out. It is electric start, but I don't know if that isn't the norm in today's marine stove tops. I do know that I did not want alchohol.

Please, anyone reading this who is pro alchohol stoves, please, please do not use this as a sounding board. There are plenty of attributes to alchohol stoves. This thread is about a gas galley construction. If you wish to expound on why you have alchohol, START YOUR OWN THREAD ON ALCHOHOL VS GAS

Ray