Removing main hatch

[Photoman369]

I have to remove the main sliding hatch to do some repairs. I screwed up and lowered the mast with the hatch slid forward. I didnt realize soon enough why the mast would not come down all the way. Two cracks one right in the center under the mast one at the corner. I want to remove it so I can put fiberglass cloth on the inside on the repair to strengthen it. Before I try and spend needless time, I wanted to ask the experts how to remove the hatch. Do I have to take out all the screws on the rail on one side?

[Photoman369]

I have to remove the main sliding hatch to do some repairs. I screwed up and lowered the mast with the hatch slid forward. I didnt realize soon enough why the mast would not come down all the way. Two cracks one right in the center under the mast one at the corner. I want to remove it so I can put fiberglass cloth on the inside on the repair to strengthen it. Before I try and spend needless time, I wanted to ask the experts how to remove the hatch. Do I have to take out all the screws on the rail on one side?

Also since I'm asking, when I took out a few of the plugs inside the cabin roof, I see the nuts for the screws holding the track in place, BUT some of the nuts don't have caps for access. Now what?

[paul I]

You can probably get away with removing 3/4 of them or so, but I'm not sure that's the way to go. I removed mine to adhere a strip of Velcro loop fabric to the underside of the hatch guides. This is a common mod for the hatch to make it glide easier and prevent the wearing away of gelcoat in the hatch track (something you should consider doing if you are going to remove the hatch anyway). I only needed to remove about 3/4 of the bolts on each side. That allowed enough play to get the front and back ends of the hatch over the hump in the front.

The reason I say it may not be the way to go is that while you are already going through all the work, you might as well remove all the bolts and re seal everything when you re-assemble. I don't remember the caps not lining up to the point where I couldn't get a small 1/4" socket maybe with a universal joint, or at least an open end wrench on the nuts. Each nut may not have its own cap (I actually think mine did), but I had no big issue with access that I can recall.

[Photoman369]

You can probably get away with removing 3/4 of them or so, but I'm not sure that's the way to go. I removed mine to adhere a strip of Velcro loop fabric to the underside of the hatch guides. This is a common mod for the hatch to make it glide easier and prevent the wearing away of gelcoat in the hatch track (something you should consider doing if you are going to remove the hatch anyway). I only needed to remove about 3/4 of the bolts on each side. That allowed enough play to get the front and back ends of the hatch over the hump in the front.

The reason I say it may not be the way to go is that while you are already going through all the work, you might as well remove all the bolts and re seal everything when you re-assemble. I don't remember the caps not lining up to the point where I couldn't get a small 1/4" socket maybe with a universal joint, or at least an open end wrench on the nuts. Each nut may not have its own cap (I actually think mine did), but I had no big issue with access that I can recall.

I think you're right it would be better to take both rails off and just seal it all up and do the Velcro mod. I'll give it a try just didn't want to get into it and find out it's much harder than it looked.

[Newell]

Not necessary to take slides off to get main hatch off. I can get mine over the hump by lubricating, prying up with a paint stick and pushing hatch with foot. Have done the Velcro mod several times on the 96X.

[sailboatmike]

Those slide bolt holes are one of the well known water leak spots so this would be a good chance to reseal them all while your messing with the hatch.