Attaching wires to fuse panel bus bar

[macowneril2015]

I first off wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to in the past years who contributed to my questions. I went radio silent for a little while due to circumstances that kept me from my . I am happy to say that I have the funds, time, and health to complete the restoration. I am working on replacing the original light / fuse panel due to the previous owner connecting wires using duct tape and what appears to be an attempt to solder the accessory wires to the fuse panel. I am not sure what is best practice is for these boats. I have extensive knowledge of electrical systems on shore but marine electrical systems is where I am unsure. I want to attach the radio / stereo system and possibly the vhf radio to the original fuse panel. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

[Tomfoolery]

I believe the original panel used 1/4" spade connectors. So get a decent crimp tool (I use a Pros Kit ratcheting crimper), with dies specific to heat shrink marine connectors, and some decent connectors, and strip and crimp away.

Oh, and the OEM panel didn't have a battery negative bus, but you can add one easily enough. Collecting them all on a screw, hanging loose in the compartment, is kinda cheesy.

[March]

The original fuse panel (the one between the two front ports) sucks to high heaven. When I removed it, I discovered that all original wires were lamp-post quality, not to mention the connectors, which made me promptly upgrade the electrical system. Granted, I haven't changed all the wires (too lazy), but now I have an additional fuse panel fed from the house battery where I attached all the electronics. I left the original wires for the interior and exterior lights, keeping my fingers crossed. But for the radio, stereo, and other electronics, a separate fuse panel would work way better, I think

[Tomfoolery]

The original fuse panel (the one between the two front ports) sucks to high heaven.

Agreed, which is why I ripped mine out and used a 6 circuit west marine panel, which uses breakers instead of fuses.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mar ... ecordNum=5

[apsaunders]

The original panel in the really isn't that much better. I'm in the same situation of changing mine too. I'm replacing the stock 4 Switch Sea Dog with a 8 Switch Blue Sea Panel. I was going to chunk the original Sea Dog Panel, but got an idea from BOAT. I'm going to use it to specifically to run my toys, i.e...autopilot, Garmin GPS, and Furuno Radar (previous owner had installed, never needed it, but makes me feel like the Big Dogs when in a marina between two mega yachts).

When I removed the original panel, I found all the ground wires held together by a single bolt, just laying in the cavity the factory cut out for the panel. I'm guessing this is the factory's version of a negative bus bar. I must say, it's been working for 11 years without a problem.

[jimmy alonso]

This is what I have done so far.
On the right there's a Negative bus bar from Blue Sea because I added a lot more wires. The Black wires are the originals.

On the left is a Blue Sea terminal bus instead of having all the positive wires from the boat going to switch panel they terminate there then they go to the switch panel and now you can have a cleaner installation and its easier when removing the switch panel for any changes etc...



A Blue Sea boat: Switch Panel, Battery Monitor, Charger/Combiner remote status indicator and the Start battery Amp Meter.

[kurz]

by the way: I still use the switch panels cheap and original style.

But to have better control I changed the switch in different colors. Very easy and good control what is on!

[Highlander]

by the way: I still use the switch panels cheap and original style.

But to have better control I changed the switch in different colors. Very easy and good control what is on!

Hope ur crew r not colour blind !!

J

[mac n cheese]

Very nice work by jimmy alonso. thumbs up.

If you want to keep it simple with only a few circuits then replace the existing panel with the following. A good one....or the West Marine tom has already mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems ... panel&th=1

Not as good as Blue Sea but still fused.

https://www.amazon.com/WATERWICH-Igniti ... itch+panel

If you plan to add more circuits maybe consider a fuse block.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Blade-B ... fuse+block

If your running dual batteries and a Battery switch then a common ground might be in order.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems ... bar+marine

...and a CB between the fuse block and battery for safety.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XT5K7F4/re ... rd_w=JCoEt

[mac n cheese]

Furthermore showing a wiring diagram with a basic dual battery system.

[Sumner]

Furthermore showing a wiring diagram with a basic dual battery system.

Surprised they don't show an ACR/combiner for that situation. If you keep the switch in the "both" position all the time to charge both then you may as well just tie them together...



... in a better configuration as shown above.

If you are worried that you will deplete the start battery then the ACR/combiner is a better way to go than trying to remember to tun the switch one way and the other every day to charge and then isolate them,

Sumner

============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

The MacGregor 26-S

The Endeavour 37

Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

[macowneril2015]

Where would a battery charger go in the diagram above? I also appreciate every one contributing here. Its been so useful and helpful I cannot begin to express my gratitude.

[Tomfoolery]

In my case, I have a 4-lead 2-bank 12/24V charger, with a pair of leads to each battery. There are diodes in the charger, so one battery can't drain to the other when it's off, and it will charge the two independently (more or less). They could also be combined to double the current into a single battery or pair of batteries in parallel.

Another common way is to use a charge relay (the ACR Sumner describes above), so only one battery is connected to the charger directly, and a charge relay will connect the second battery in parallel when charging. I believe it's most common to put the charger on the battery connected to the OB, so the OB will also charge both batts when running. I just use two marine deep-cycle batteries, and alternate their use when day sailing, but shore power charges both.

My charger is a Guest 5+5A, which seems to be identical to the Marinco, with a different color scheme. In fact, it looks like the Guest chargers have actually morphed into the Marinco brand.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco- ... ecordNum=6

https://www.iboats.com/shop/guest-3-ban ... gIEsvD_BwE (3-bank, but looks the same as my 2-bank)

[Sumner]

Where would a battery charger go in the diagram above? I also appreciate every one contributing here. Its been so useful and helpful I cannot begin to express my gratitude.

The picture above shows a single bank of two 12 volt batteries. The outboard and all loads would be connected using the single positive and negative wires along with any charging source (outboard, solar, 12 volt charger). Still need appropriate fuse at the battery and others for the individual circuits.

If you separate the two batteries into two banks, say one to the house loads and the other to the outboard then you would use one of the following to charge them with a 12 volt charger.

1. Use a charger with two outputs, one to each battery.

2. Use your 1-2-Both-Off switch to connect them with the 'both' mode.

3. Run the charger to one battery, usually the house bank, and then use a ACR (combiner) to charge the second battery.

Most efficient use of the batteries is to put them in one bank and if worried about a dead battery take along a small battery pack. If you separate them then I'd go for #3 above and is what I have on the Endeavour, which has four 6 volt batteries as the house bank and one 12 volt battery as the start battery for the diesel. I'd have the charger connected to the house bank as it will get the most usage. The start battery has a load for very short periods of time and the ACR will for sure take care of that,

Sumner

============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

The MacGregor 26-S

The Endeavour 37

Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

[macowneril2015]

Ok, Thank you. I have an old fuse panel replacement, so would it benefit me to upgrade it or just move forward with it? I was planning on setting up / installing shore power at some point this summer. I also plan on in the immediate period installing a charger and from my take away a combiner since I plan on having 2 batteries. Also any suggestions on dual purpose batteries / places to buy them (Walmart, online ... etc)