Etec 60 Choke only

[clandes]

Hi All
I am at wits end. The only BRP technician is far away and is expensive to get to my town when he is available to come - he is currently away until the end of this month.
I have a 2010 ETEC 60 DSLIS EV serial 05269217 with less than 300hrs (we sail when out of the harbour). It has never given problems but now after standing idle for 6 months it starts on choke only and will not idle easily. I have been able to get it to run roughly in idle but have to get high rpm to keep it running and then, quite roughly. The LED lights light up and go off as per the manual.
I have checked, cleaned and indexed the plugs, replaced the old fuel and ran it for about 15 minutes at 1500 and 2000 rpm to clear old fuel out of the system. It starts with choke assistance (3/4 to full) but will not idle easily or smoothly - the engine cuts when closing the choke (slowly) or when retarding the throttle to idle. Battery and alternator voltages are good at 13.5 and 55Vplus when running. The battery may be a bit low initially (12.6) but turns the motor easily and can crank for a long time. Engine diagnostics say - 'Engine OK'.
Any suggestions - it seems that, due to the expense of getting the tech out here and the cost of spares, I will have to throw this engine and get a new supported make in this country. This doesn't make sense but the initial quote from the agents (MTM in Dubai) for 2 spark plugs, fuel lift pump kit and a thermostat is close to 1000USD - yeah you read it correctly - 1000USD, so am scared of even asking for the tech call out price.
I work in Muscat, Oman and the tech comes from Dubai UAE.

[Tomfoolery]

If it were me, which is easy to say because it's not my engine, I'd start with replacing the fuel filter or filters, and I'd add Sea Foam to the gas. I'm very cynical when it comes to things like fuel additives, but I've been able to clear carburetors on old snowblower engines and lawnmowers that have sat without running for years using Sea Foam, though I had no such high hopes.

I'd also pull the plugs and check for cleanliness, and replace if too much crud is present.

Since I know essentially nothing about ETecs, that's all I've got, and it's worth what you paid for it.

[Jimmyt]

After changing filters and gas treatment, I would check/replace fuel bulb and hose, and loosen cap on tank. Make sure to replace your tank hose fitting or seal as you're going through it.

[clandes]

Thanks Tom and Jimmy!!!
Yes - A Fuel filter is on order as well as a new set of plugs. I will do the fuel additive thingy to clean the injectors and various fuel channels but will first do some research after seeing what brands are available here in Muscat. The fuel bulb and hoses are relatively new and, after double checking today, they seem fine. The fuel tank hose connector is an issue but have managed that since I bought the boat with tie wraps and plumbers tape. This has worked out OK so far but maybe it is time for a proper fix?
I have had some progress though - I cleaned an old set of plugs (I always keep the last set as spares in the cabin) which still looked good as I change them on a yearly basis. The set that was in were very sooted up (not wet) when I took them out - a lot of black for the short run they had. After replacement, the motor started quite easily without use of the fast idle (choke?) lever, but the idle is a bit rough, hunting from 700 to 850 rpm. At least it did not stall (yay!!!). I ran her up to 2000rpm for 10 or so minutes again and shut down normally and will check tomorrow if the current plugs are also sooted out. So the issue seems to be mixture related but at least I have an idea now where to look and I think some sort of fuel additive will help.
More good news is that the Dubai dealer and I misunderstood each other - the 1000USD seems to be for his technician's travel to Muscat and full service with spares cost - so the price does not seem that bad anymore. I have booked him to come when he can. I will keep you all updated with progress but will still appreciate any more suggestions and ideas. All these newfangled electronics really mess with my old analogue (carb, points, distributor and steam) brain!!!. Whining about this on the forum helped to clear my mind a bit - I wanted to shoot, stab and spit this morning!! Thanks all!!

[Tomfoolery]

The fuel tank hose connector is an issue but have managed that since I bought the boat with tie wraps and plumbers tape. This has worked out OK so far but maybe it is time for a proper fix?

Ooooh, I'd look into that. The engine pulls a vacuum on the fuel line, and if it's getting some air, that could be a problem.

Whining about this on the forum helped to clear my mind a bit - I wanted to shoot, stab and spit this morning!!

No problem. It's what we're here for. If it weren't for whining and complaining, we wouldn't have nearly as much traffic on this site as we do.

[JotaErre]

I had a similar problem in a50hp, 4-stroke Yamaha a few weeks ago. It turned out to be a small hole in one of the fuel lines that let some air in.

[Jimmyt]

I had a similar problem in a50hp, 4-stroke Yamaha a few weeks ago. It turned out to be a small hole in one of the fuel lines that let some air in.

That’s the angle I was thinking... Glad you found your problem, though. Sometimes things like this can drive you nuts. Even more so if you’re paying $95/hr for a guy to fumble his way to it...

Was your problem between the tank and engine, or under the cowl?

[JotaErre]

I had a similar problem in a50hp, 4-stroke Yamaha a few weeks ago. It turned out to be a small hole in one of the fuel lines that let some air in.

That’s the angle I was thinking... Glad you found your problem, though. Sometimes things like this can drive you nuts. Even more so if you’re paying $95/hr for a guy to fumble his way to it...

Was your problem between the tank and engine, or under the cowl?

Under the cowl: a faulty o-ring in the gasoline filter.

[Jimmyt]

Thank you very much!!