Honda BF50A Telltale stopped

[JaxMacX]

Was out on the river for the first time with our Mac26x (The Blind Rabbit). Initially, the telltale was working fine. It stopped at some point because I looked back and nothing was coming out.

A little background, we had purchased the boat after it had set in storage for a year in Florida heat. We changed out the water pump (kit), fuel pump, plug, oil, etc. Prior to changing all of that out, we fired up the motor. Despite the water ears on, the motor began smoking in a bad way. When we removed the waterpump, it was basically trashed and melted. Later, after we replaced the pump, we were not initially getting the telltale. We realized the water ears just weren't lined up correctly/not pushing enough water into the cavity. We aligned them vertically, then the telltale started working. With the telltale not working, I'm thinking that some of the original pump may have gotten stuck in the line so will likely need to trace the line to confirm whether it is clogged or not.

I'm writing to see if anyone else has had issues with the telltale not working and what solutions that they may have come up with.

Thanks!

[Tomfoolery]

The tell-tale not working is almost normal for a BF50. The port screwed into the engine block is too small, and the outlet port is too small, and it doesn't take much to clog them.

First thing you do is poke around inside the plastic outlet with an opened paper clip. Wiggle it around, and water should start coming out. I'd gotten pretty good at doing that while on the water, standing on the deck next to the engine, hanging on for dear life, and not being able to actually see the port. Almost always worked.

If that doesn't work, shut it off and pull the hose off the block fitting, and fiddle about in there. Try again. If that doesn't work, pull that fitting out altogether and see if it's clogged.

Honda makes an aftermarket kit with larger block fitting but same hose. I removed the plastic outlet fitting and just stuck the hose out the hole, with the little wire hose clamp on the outside to keep the hose from slipping into the engine shroud, though it doesn't seem like it wants to.

It will flow more water than with the plastic fitting in place, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything by letting more water flow out, and it hasn't clogged since. I don't think I'm the only one who's done this, either.

[JaxMacX]

Thanks for the feedback. Good to know we aren’t alone on this. I’ll follow your directions.

[taylormade]

You are not alone indeed, Tom! I actually swapped the constricted size brass fitting going into the engine block with one slightly larger and I've had zero problems since. Good call on the paperclip. Another thing I used to keep on hand was a one foot long piece of weed whacker string. It's tough enough to break up crud but flexible enough to make the bends it needs to.

[K9Kampers]

Honda makes an aftermarket kit with larger block fitting but same hose. I removed the plastic outlet fitting and just stuck the hose out the hole, with the little wire hose clamp on the outside to keep the hose from slipping into the engine shroud, though it doesn't seem like it wants to.
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With my Tohatsu, the telltale hose plastic outlet fitting went missing while poking out the mud / bug bits so I improvised a replacement with a barbed brass fitting. The extra benefit of the choice of fitting was the threaded end outside of the cowling would accept a water / soda bottle cap to prevent the mud bugs from finding their way in. With a length of colored rope or ribbon attached thru the cap to remind it being there, remove / replace it before / after an outing.

[opie]

--- Honda BF50A shop manual, page three, shows that in 2004 and after Honda modified the water indicator joint fitting to a larger internal diameter.
19312-ZW4-H00 for the joint, 91402-ZW4-H00 for the hose (with a large end and a small end), and 90603-ZV4-000 for the small clip.
Size of the joint hole went from 3/32 inch diameter to 3/16 diameter. That is a 400% increase (due to pi-r-squared).

[Tomfoolery]

Yeah, those are the parts, but I seem to remember that it came as a kit. The hose is the same size, but with a larger end for the engine fitting. Still clogged at the outlet, though not as often, so I just let the hose stick out the hole without the outlet fitting. It hasn't clogged since, and it's been at least a few years now.

It does spit more water, which presumably means it takes longer to warm up since it seems to be independent of the thermostat, but I don't care as I only warm it for a minute before dropping into gear and no-wake speeding my way out of the marina before going to half throttle.

[Be Free]

You are not alone indeed, Tom! I actually swapped the constricted size brass fitting going into the engine block with one slightly larger and I've had zero problems since. Good call on the paperclip. Another thing I used to keep on hand was a one foot long piece of weed whacker string. It's tough enough to break up crud but flexible enough to make the bends it needs to.

Beat me to it. A length of weed whacker line is part of my tool kit. Works great!

[Be Free]

There is a third pickup on the foot of the BF50 that you have to tape off if you want to use the "ears". Otherwise a lot of the water will just leak out and never make it to the area where the water pump pickup tube resides. Rinsing works best if you get the adapter to hook up a garden hose to the engine. I don't recommend running it with either configuration. Put it in a tank if you need to run it. As you have discovered, it does not take long to destroy the water pump if the engine is run without water.

[DaveC426913]

BF50A owner here.

This:

The tell-tale not working is almost normal for a BF50.

First thing you do is poke around inside the plastic outlet with an opened paper clip. Wiggle it around, and water should start coming out. I'd gotten pretty good at doing that while on the water, standing on the deck next to the engine, hanging on for dear life, and not being able to actually see the port. Almost always worked.

If that doesn't work, shut it off and pull the hose off the block fitting, and fiddle about in there. Try again. If that doesn't work, pull that fitting out altogether and see if it's clogged.

I do this so often I have a piece of SS wire on a ring ding at the stern permanently. It's one of the most frequently used "tools" on my boat.

Check it every time you start her up. Make it a habit so you don't forget.

For my part, I have never managed the trick of reaming the pee-hole without having to remove the engine cowling.

[WinSome]

We keep our weed whacker line inserted if motor sitting for any amount of time. Now Use a 2-3 ‘ piece of line tied through the rear engine cowl closure snap to keep it handy. If forget to remove on startup it’ll blow out or just reach back and flick it out

[JaxMacX]

Thank you all.

I took your advice. Ran a line into it to unplug it and used a spare garbage can full of water. Telltale works great!

[DaveC426913]

...used a spare garbage can full of water.

? ?

[NiceAft]

...used a spare garbage can full of water.

? ?

I actually do the same thing.

When I test run my Honda50, I raise the motor, slip a spare can into it, and then lower the motor. I fill the can with wate to cover the intake, and start the motor. If the pee stream is good, I let it run for fifteen minutes. To prevent the water level from getting too low, I leave a hose flowing water into the can at a flow rate that keeps the water fairly constant.

P.S. I try to have the pee stream not flow back into the can, otherwise the water will get hot.

[Tomfoolery]

I just use muffs, but as someone mentioned earlier, you have to tape over the water intake that's on the underside of the anti-ventilation plate. My round muffs just cover the intakes, and as long as the hose flow is set high enough that water is still spilling out from under the muffs, the water pump should not have issues.

There are also rectangular muffs available, which would be better, but it's not worth replacing mine as they work fine.