Towing my just-bought Mac 25 from the yard to the house

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.
aprangley
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Towing my just-bought Mac 25 from the yard to the house

Post by aprangley »

Hi Mac community.

I am so excited. I just bought a Mac 25 and trailer. It is sitting on a farm 125 miles from me (I am in Seattle and boat is in Port Townsend). I need to go fetch it :-)

I am looking for general advice on towing it. I know the Mac is around 2100lb and the trailer is probably 700-800lb. The boat has no additions. I don't have a motor yet. The trailer lights don't yet work. The person who sold it to me said the trailer is in good condition but I don't know enough yet about how it will work on the road.

1) What you your thoughts on towing a Mac 25 with a vehicle with 3500lb capacity vehicle? I am thinking of buying Sienna/Highlander for the family. I can rent a stronger car for the first big tow. But I am planning for the next few years what car to drive. I plan to drive slow and not load the vehicle/boat with any additional heavy items.

2) The boat seems to be quite far forward on a short'ish trailer is that normal? I have seen other Mac's online with a similar set up.

3) Any other advice for a new member of the Mac community on fetching a Mac 25 and first time towing -

Big thanks,
Ant
New to Seattle (from South Africa) and new to Mac sailing (mostly Dinghy and some Hunter experience).
Last edited by aprangley on Tue Jul 26, 2022 8:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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NiceAft
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by NiceAft »

First, welcome to the forum.

Second, weights seem fine, but you need to be certain the wheel bearings are well greased. Check for rust in hidden areas by tapping with a hammer and listening for clinging metal sound. if you hear a dull thud, not good.

Third, keep the speed at the speed limit and check the bearings every hour or so to see if they are hot . Place your hand on them to feel the temperature. Warm is fine, hot is not. Also, get a truckers ratchet strap and secure the stern to the trailer; it only takes one bad bounce to have bad consequences.

I'm sure there will be more advise from others.
Ray ~~_/)~~
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by OverEasy »

Hi Aprangley

Congratulations on your new to you Mac25!
Welcome to the forum!

We regularly tow our Mac26X with a Dodge Caravan with a 3500 lb tow capacity. All up our bait and trailer are 3300 lbs with a tongue weight of 350 lbs. (not as much margin as we would desire but it’s what we have).

We added 1000 lb capacity Trembin pucks to the rear axle.

Our trailer is a dual axle Sea Lion with hydraulic brakes on one axle. We replaced all the tire at the time of our purchase locally with new rated tires before we traveled any distance or on a highway. We did this because the tires exhibited tread cracks and were over 5 years since manufacture. They also had sat in one position on ground for a while. So this is something you especially want to check and address on a single axle trailer.

The original Mac trailers I believe had a box tube tongue which can rust away from the inside. As with any trailer you want to check the lug nuts, tire pressures and lubrication. If it has sat or not been periodically had the bearings repacked you will want to watch the hub temperatures as you tow. They should always be cool enough to comfortably hold on to. Anything past genuinely comfortable is a substantial warning ⚠️.

Check all welds at all areas for integrity, rust or any signs of cracking. Get discrepancies fixed before towing, especially on highways. The last thing you want to be is featured as the breaking news story in the traffic report.

We travel very light generally without water or fuel and plan on grocery shopping (& etc) once we are on the water. We rigorously limit our travel speed to less than 55 mph on level ground or downhill inclines. On climbing hills we adjust accordingly down to what the minimum speed limit is if necessary. No sense tearing things up if you don’t have to.

We have logged over 5000 miles up and down the East Coast from NH to SC (and back) along with trips to/from Vermont. Most recently we just towed up and over Franconia Notch coming back to NH from VT.

We are very disciplined with our maintenance and oil changes. For us it’s preferable to address things pre-emptively rather than running things out. (It actually costs less overall!😎😎)

So, if we were to choose between the two vehicles we’d choose the one with the best brakes, tires, weight and maintenance.

We’d highly recommend towing with bothe the vehicle and trailer level to the ground.(As opposed to vehicle tail low and trailer nose low.)
Make sure you have sufficient tongue weight to avoid fish tailing.

Inspect and use your safety chains or cables.

We’d suggest minimizing your passengers when picking up a new trailer until you have had it professionally maintained and any shortcomings rectified.

Hope this helped some.

Best Regards
Over Easy 😎😎🐩🐈

PS: One other aspect we do is increase our tire pressures. Trailer to 50 psi ( 65 psi max rated ) and tow vehicle from normal 36 psi up to 40 psi on front and 45 psi on rear ( 52 psi max load rating) which we do when tires are cold and connected to loaded trailer. This is done at the tire manufacturer’s trailer towing recommendations to minimize unnecessary sidewall flexing/heating.
Last edited by OverEasy on Tue Jul 26, 2022 7:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Stickinthemud57
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by Stickinthemud57 »

1) What you your thoughts on towing a Mac 25 with a vehicle with 3500lb capacity vehicle like Sienna or Highlander? I will drive slow and not load the vehicle/boat with any additional heavy items.

This should be adequate. These load limits leave a fudge factor, and this load is well within that.

2) The boat seems to be quite far forward on a short'ish trailer is that normal? I have seen other Mac's online with a similar set up.

Being lighter than most sailboats, it takes more boat forward of the axle to maintain tongue weight than it would with a heavier boat. Since you are seeing this on others, I see no reason to suspect a problem.

3) Any other advice for a new member of the Mac community on fetching a Mac 25 and first time towing

In addition to those things recommended by previous posts:
-Be absolutely sure your trailering yoke and other hardware are properly installed and robust.
-Always redundantly secure the boat to the trailer at the winch and elsewhere. Once you get it home, thoroughly inspect the winch strap. Replace if need be.
-Gas up just before you pick up the boat so you don't have to fuel up on the way home.
-Secure rigging so it does not flail about.
-Try to stay on well-maintained and well-travelled roads.
-Be prepared to encounter knuckleheaded drivers. The general public has little to no understand or patience when it comes to the limitations and challenges pulling a load.


Congratulations!
The key to inner peace is to admit you have a problem and leave it at that.
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by OverEasy »

Great aspects SickInTheMud57!
You bring up some very good points!

(We recently saw/helped a Chevy HD Pick-up truck who dropped a travel trailer due to a rusted out bumper hitch that still had a Class IV sticker hanging on. One of the two safety chains broke free from the trailer due to worn (road abrasion) links. When it dropped it took out the tongue Jack as well. FORTUNATELY this happened on a good surface street at low (35 mph) speed rather than on the highway from which they had been traveling. As awkward as this was I’d hate to think of what it could have looked like. 😳)

Best Regards
Over Easy 😎😎🐩🐈
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by Be Free »

If I were going to pick up the boat this would be my process:

A jack that can pick up one axle of the trailer. You may need a block or two to get it high enough.
A jack stand for safety.
One (or two) new hubs with bearings installed and greased.
New cotter pins.
Large channel lock pliers.
Roll of paper towels and hand cleaner.
Small strip of emery cloth.
Lug wrench.
Penetrating oil (for stuck lug bolts).
Spare tire, mounted on the rim and inflated.
Wiring harness and new lights (may be purchased as a set)
Electrical tape.
Air compressor and tire gauge.
Extension cord.
Large hammer.
Phillips screwdriver.
Multimeter with DC voltage and continuity functions.
If available, make sure you have both a 1 7/8 inch and a 2 inch ball regardless of what the seller says you need.
Appropriate wrenches to change your trailer ball.
Assortment of small box-end wrenches (for replacing lights).

Before leaving home verify that your trailer wiring on the vehicle is correct and working.

Check the trailer for rust by tapping and listening for dull areas. Pay particular attention to the axle and tongue/coupler. Check the springs and hangers.

Jack up each wheel and spin. A good bearing will be almost silent. You may hear something almost like a hiss or soft sliding sound. Rumbling, squeaking, squealing, pretty much any other sound is a problem. If the wheel is noisy lower the trailer, loosen the lug nuts, jack back up and place on the jack stand. Remove the hub and replace it with one of your new ones. Before installing, clean up the spindle with the emery cloth if there is any pitting, rust, or discoloration.

Check the date code on the tires. If any tire is over ten years old, replace it with the spare. If both both are too old replace the worst or oldest one. Make sure that the tires are inflated to their maximum pressure.

Hook up the trailer and check the lights. If a light does not work remove the lens and check the bulb with the multimeter. You should have continuity between the outer shell and any (may be two) connections on the bottom of the bulb. If they are LED bulbs you will get continuity in one direction only. The outer shell is negative (black wire) and the connections on the bottom are positive (red wire).

If the bulb is good then verify you have power at the plug (I know you did this before you left, but make sure again). If your vehicle is not the problem is is usually easier to just rewire the trailer and replace the lights than to troubleshoot on the road. You have everything you need to replace or troubleshoot. It's your call.

Stop after the first couple of miles and make sure everything is still connected and the lights are still working. Check the bearing and tire temperature.

Stop again around 20 miles in. If you are not seeing anything suspicious I'd check every 50 miles or so after that. You have to be very careful on the first trip. Regardless of what the seller says you really don't know what condition the trailer is in until you have serviced it yourself.

Congratulations, good luck, and stay safe!
Bill
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Dougiestyle
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by Dougiestyle »

Welcome to the Mac world :D .New guy buys pizza for everyone :o , make mine ham and black olive :P .

Seriously lots of good helpful info here. all the above posts are good for safe travels.

My 2 cents bring rope, tie-down straps, HF cheap plastic clips, bungees small, medium and large I like the ones with round balls on them, just be careful the ball can take a tooth out or put an egg on your head.

Good luck
Dougiestyle
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dlandersson
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by dlandersson »

WADR, I disagree, I'd simply plan on replacing the tires - who need a flat on the highway? And in any case, I'd replace any tire more than 5 yers old. 8)
Be Free wrote: Tue Jul 26, 2022 9:15 am Check the date code on the tires. If any tire is over ten years old, replace it with the spare.
aprangley
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by aprangley »

Hi Everyone. I will post again later when I have a quiet moment away from the 3 kids. But just a big thank you already for all the wise comments. I just saw her for the first time :-) Bought the boat sight unseen from Johannesburg!!! Yes - foolish. Boat looks good. Trailer structure looks ok. Will send pictures.
aprangley
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by aprangley »

I just got back from my first meeting with my Mac 25. The boat looks solid enough. And all the standing rigging and sails are in decent shape. Bit bigger than I imagined which is exciting once on the water. So glad I am learning from the Mac community. BIG THANKS Nice Aft, Over Easy, StickInTheMuds57, Be Free, Dougie Style, dlandersson - More than happy to buy pizza and take you for a sail once I learn the ropes.

I will follow all that advice. Immediate needs are to get a new light set-up, check the tire age/replace them. Probably grease the bearings after jacking up and spinning. Will tie the boat down with high strength strapping etc. This is a project for August.

Check the pictures...
1) Is it normal for the bottom of the trailer to rest so close to the ground in the keel support?
2) Not sure how to check the strength of the tongue and then the trailer coupler (the part that drops and fixes onto the ball)?
3) Glad to hear the optimism about 3500lb towing capacity... Any problems experienced on the ramps pulling out of the water?
4) Trailer documentation has the weight at 450lb. This is lower than expected which is good for towing but a question around strength and stability...

Ant

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Jimmyt
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 from the yard to the house

Post by Jimmyt »

Boat looks great, from what I can see. Once you get the trailer level, and get good tires on level ground, I think your ground clearance will be ok. Just couple it to the car and make sure that it's close to level. You may have to get a drop mount for your trailer ball to achieve this.

Take a small hammer and tap on the trailer (usually the bottom face of the square tube, or tongue, is the first to go). It should ring when you hit it. If it sounds dead, or the hammer goes through it, that's a problem.

Check the bunk boards, too. You don't want a bunk board to fail and have a c-channel poke through the hull.

If you don't replace the winch and rope before towing (I wouldn't), put a heavy ratchet strap, or turnbuckle, there as a backup.

Visual exam of the coupler is probably sufficient. If it hasn't lost a lot of material, it's likely good to go. Make sure the ball is the correct size, and couple it to your vehicle. If you have any doubts, use the tongue jack, or a vehicle jack to lift the tongue while it's coupled. If you can raise the rear of the vehicle with the coupler (don't try to lift it off the ground - just verify that you can raise it a couple of inches above static above static height (static height when the trailer isn't coupled).

I recommend an LED light package.

Nice looking rig! I'm anxious to see how it looks when you unwrap it and clean it up!

Congratulations!
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 from the yard to the house

Post by Russ »

I echo Jimmy's comments above.

Boat looks good and curious what it looks like under the cover.

What kind of motor are you putting on the back of that?

I would replace the wheels/tires. They look pretty well used up.
--Russ
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 from the yard to the house

Post by dlandersson »

Ditto - I've been in a vehicle with "perfectly fine tires" - blew out on the highway. I don't wish that on anybody. :wink:
Russ wrote: Wed Jul 27, 2022 6:17 am
I would replace the wheels/tires. They look pretty well used up.
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Be Free
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 back to my house

Post by Be Free »

dlandersson wrote: Tue Jul 26, 2022 2:34 pm WADR, I disagree, I'd simply plan on replacing the tires - who need a flat on the highway? And in any case, I'd replace any tire more than 5 yers old. 8)
Be Free wrote: Tue Jul 26, 2022 9:15 am Check the date code on the tires. If any tire is over ten years old, replace it with the spare.
No argument that five years is safer than ten and preemptively replacing them would remove all doubt. Ten years is my drop-dead-date to replace a tire regardless of how good it looks. In fifty years of pulling boats I've not had a tire fail yet. In actual practice, I replace one of my four tires approximately every other year. I also carry two spares on long trips; I've never needed either of them.

Absent any visible problems and tires less than ten years old I would pull an unknown trailer two hours (with frequent stops). If I had any doubt about a tire, even on such a relatively short trip, I would replace it.

To the OP: Ten years is my limit for trailer tires. You can certainly set the limit shorter but don't go longer! I have four tires and could (but would not like to) make the trip on three. You only have two tires and a failure of one could potentially be life threatening. If you are unsure of the condition of any of the trailer tires replace them.
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Re: Towing my just-bought Mac 25 from the yard to the house

Post by Be Free »

Just saw the pictures. +1 on replacing those wheels and tires. Don't even consider pulling it home with them. Also +1 on the lights and wiring. You will be way ahead if you just replace them both. At that point you are just one cotter pin and nut away from changing the hubs. Probably a good idea to do so.

Check the bolts on the fenders. They look pretty rusty. If they come loose they may cut your tires.

From what I can see it looks like a very nice boat. Congratulations!
Bill
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